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Everything posted by gstallons
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This ain't a Coppa Anything . I'd go look at it , ask a bunch of ?s . Thank him for his time and leave .
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These hoses are junk . Make sure you index the hose clamps when you reinstall the hose . You will do this again . It won't hurt to keep one in stock .
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The fuel injector cleaning was/is the best $$$ ever spent . They cleaned my nozzles in an ultra-sonic cleaner flow tested them and printed off the results . YEOW ! You have to start out w/this to end up with perfection !
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back from powder coater...what have I done?
gstallons replied to Cold Desert Rat's topic in 24/7 V11
I feel for ya brother . Losing your dog is the hardest (one of) thing a man can ever go through . -
Can you post a pic of the "damage" ?
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This air charge temp sensor is mounted in the post filter portion of the airbox . This location keeps dust , dirt , etc. off the sensor . This is to keep a true reading of the sensor. you need to come up with a good cover to keep this stuff off the sensor .
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If you are in the least bit of doubt about your abilities , take them to a reputable shop .
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Well , you replace all your shi**y shifts w/righteous ones !
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Did you get this to come apart ? This regulator is at the end of the fuel supply , so it maintains the fuel pressure @ a constant # . If it stops / stops up the pressure goes to the max the pump will produce . When you get this together/fixed/running , use non-ethanol fuel only .
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Curiosity killed the cat . What are you looking for inside the regulator ?
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Yes , you can do it that way , removing the spark plugs will make rotating the c/shaft MUCH easier .
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Please do yourself a favor and get the TPS adjustment cable to make this procedure much easier . You will not regret it and you will get a perfect reading . I got some ends (they look just like the banana plug ends on Fluke leads) and soldered them to the cable ends . It looks professional and gives a perfect connection . There is still a Mom n Pop store ( Hughes Electronics) in Paducah that sell all the goodies and have the stuff in stock ! Also , you are talkng to counter people that know more than you do . A rare trait nowadays !
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I "think" this is the v you set to after the throttle plate is adjusted to FULLY closed.
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Tag bracket broken; weld? replace? substitue solution?
gstallons replied to p6x's topic in Technical Topics
That is some pretty good welding . -
Put the stock air filter system back on and see what happens .
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What I would do is , get a length of all-thread and bottom it out in the engine case and mark it where you can cut it leaving enough to install a lock washer/nut in place of the socket head capscrew . This way you will take advantage of the depth of threads in the engine case . Now when you use a stud you are pulling the threads instead of screwing the threads .
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The #s sound good & I would use a good anti-seize lube !
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I HAD a tuner on my bike and spent a lot of time & money trying to get my bike dialed in to find out the tuner was at fault .
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In all the pics I see on this thread , the fields (field windings) are wound and not permanent magnet fields . Also , power window motors , etc. are permanent magnet . Many factors . size , cost , etc . Nothing wrong with them , I wouldn't want one on a diesel pick-up though .
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Yes . the case is one solid cylinder with no countersunk screws in the motor case . The smaller diameter motors are permanent magnet . 99% of all mowers along with automotive vehicles are permanent magnet starters . Some time ago , one of these forums discussed the magnet coming loose from the housing and causing no-start conditions . There was an adhesive to re-glue this magnet back in to the housing . Sidenote = never hit the starting motor with a hammer if a no-start condition exists . These magnets are brittle and will break leaving you with a museum piece .