gstallons

I hate to affect this conversation but , the starter drive splines on the armature are designed for the motor rotation as well as the sprag in the starter drive . You can get the starter to rotate in the opposite direction but , you can't fix this problem . I went to a buddy's house a few years ago where he replaced the battery on his Dixie Chopper . He replaced the battery and the starter would no longer engage .After an hour of work , I found the battery installed backward . The most important "moral of the story" . A permanent magnet motor will rotate backward when you install the battery backwards .

Try it w/o that TFI addition , install new plugs , check the oil for dilution and ride it for an afternoon to make sure you feel an improvement .

When you do your Super-tune on this bike , you want to keep this idle kicker out of the equation . You will tighten it after everything else is done .

Is that Farmtractorhenge ?

Not a change but more of a transition .

$2200 shipping ? Yeow !

It works for any MG . You just do not want to leave any fasteners in the pan when trying to loosen / remove it .

Make SURE you have EVERY bolt out of the pan before you try removing the pan . Get under the bike and verify all the bolts/capscrews or whatever you want to call them are out of the pan .

The seal driver is the way to go . You will install the seal perfectly and squarely in the bore of the fork leg .

I would think you could go with the 41mm kit . 41mm is 0.039 in larger than 40mm .

Trust me . you funk up enough EXPEN$IVE $tuff , you will never , ever put things together dry as long as you live !!!!!!!!

I think your bike has been photographed more than Marilyn Monroe

There is nothing hi-tech about a MG electrical system . This reminds me of a story concerning a VERY old garage in Wickliffe run by two very old mechanics . A buddy of mine said " the only thing hi-tech about Dreamy Haynes was an 8 volt battery ".

Stainless steel is DRY . You must use a anti-seize lubricant to prevent thread galling .

Do you have your manual with the wiring diagram in the back of the book ? Take it to an office store amd have it enlarged .

Ahhhh , I now understand how the pull winding is "turned off" . Damn , that is a smart way to control the on/off of the pull winding on the solenoid .

Just what are you calling cartridge or damper rod forks ? My parts manuals show the assemblies to be the "same" . The early style has a smaller diameter part(s) . Make sure what you get when you order . Joe Eish took care of me when I ordered my fork seals/bushings .

I get mine at the NAPA store , can't remember the brand or part #

Trust US , you will get the hang of it after running out of/low on fuel a couple of times !

Say what ? ......nothing I can ever add......

Check on Motion-Pro website and see if they have anything or catch a tool truck . SnapOn , Cornwell , etc...

I will NEVER understand why things are underdesigned (if that is a real word) when something a little larger does the job ! Smaller gauge wire , mini-relays , etc... Yuck . I hope underwater craft & aircraft are not built with this spartan design .

I hate to think and get this wrong , but which "coil" leads when this this action takes place and what does the other coil do during this event ? Then when does the other coil "take over" ?

Is this the picture of the donor ?

If I remember correctly , Wilson's Outdoor Equipment , Jackson Tn. ?