gstallons

Going back to 1995 . Just get a divorce in Ky. where the ex keeps EVERYTHING . she keeps your childhood pics , mementos , everything. You get your truck and clothes . I was talking to a buddy and he was telling me about he couldn't find his H.S. football uniform when he "left" . She told him later she threw it all out in the backyard ,poured gas on it and burned it. I don't have to tell you , some women in Ky are mean.

I can be philosophical telling someone else to throw stuff away .

There was this disturbed woman that lived in our county and this was when the C.B. radio was at it's zenith . She was using her van to "meet n treat" truck driver's in what seemed like a 7/24 operation. Her handle was "Cotton Candy" and her Chevy van was nicknamed her "wrastle castle" !

I bought these primarily for the nuts. I have pans of standard / metric nuts and I like to go the easy and most accurate way of doing this . I was using bolts to measure thread pitch , etc. of ea. nut

this has both standard/metric. Looks pretty good. I just purchased the style you posted pics of because they are everywhere around here !

All of these older cars reminds me of an interview of Paul McCartney . He was describing Ringo mentioning that he drove a Zephyr Zodiac , as though it were the Batmobile .

No , I ended up buying them at The Co-op Farm Store out here in the next town. They were from $45-70 each. Fastenal sells them and any hardware store can get them for you.

Exactly ! I thought I was being feminine by doing this . After 10 mins , NO way . I had to shop around a couple of weeks to save about $40 on these but they are worth it. BTW , I have accumulated a lot of stuff and I am trying to make sure about the thread sizes . If anyone wants to blow some $ , this is a good investment.

Did these Volvos have an option like Borat was asking about at the Cadillac dealership ?

This is a warning for anyone who uses "torque tables" and torque wrenches . This was 25+ years ago and there were some dumb-dumbs that pulled the threads out of a small block Chevy main caps using the wrong torque value or just didn't know what they were doing or both. Do think about the application , bolt size , thread pitch , fastener material , dry or oiled threads , etc. BE CAREFUL . There are no unnecessary parts on a bike and you don't want anything falling off. With that being said , I can humbly say no one has cross threaded , twisted off , mucked up things any more than I have . I will challenge anyone past , present and future on this claim. I've been sorting bolts / nuts the past couple of weeks and finally bought these two metric / standard thread size boards. I would never buy them because of price and vanity. Now I can't see doing it w/o them.

Amen to that !

You are at the lowest common denominator of music . I bought (25 yrs ago) the box set that had all of his recordings. It took a while to get accustomed to. I do understand how important Robert was/is to all music.

People don't know how to drive them

Does SKF offer sockets for these nuts ? NVM , I found them. They are found under tools. They are hook spanners .

Uhhhh. NO

p6x = the charging system is off or out of circuit until the headlight relay is energized (turned on). Nothing is taking place until the key is turned on. Remember that if you connecting jumper cables or a jump box. Moral of the story ; you will not do any damage as long as the key switch is off. AFA the diodes in the alternator or regulator . These are probably rated to handle 2Xs the normal voltage and or current they will be exposed to . They are probably not going to fail. AFA the warnings. The manufacturer does not like returns so they want to safeguard against them . Disconnect before charging is how you cut this off. also , you stay away from liability. You have no idea who is fooling w/this stuff. The best advice I ever heard was , a buddy was trailering his bikes to Sturgis and the alt. failed on his truck . By the time he got stopped at a hotel the battery was dead. He went to a franchise parts store , they bench tested the alt. and it was bad . The salesman told Phil to charge the battery completely before installing the new alt. because this alt. would "burn up" trying to charge the dead battery. He bought a cheap charger and charged the battery overnight before leaving out the next morning. An alternator is designed (kinda wimpy) to maintain battery voltage . So , if you are jumping allow it to charge a while before cranking . Anyone that has jumped off a dead vehicle you know how loud an alternator gets recharging !

Now , if bullionz will come back on and join the conversation......... we will finish this up .

Should have added that to it. Touch the wire to the head and the light came on. w/KOEO. Attach the test light to + battery post and to the tip of the switch and light came on to prove the switch is n.c.=normally closed.

Call me wrong. The oil press. switch is n.c. as in normally closed. I turned the key on and the oil light was on. Removed the wire and the light went out.

Amigo ! Where have you been ?

Yeah , but you can't explain how come you spent $3k on speaker wire instead of going to WalMart and buying a 20'extension cord .

A long X ago they were selling speaker (cable) wire w/documentation of X molecules/ft of oxygen content and gold plated ends . This stuff looked like welding leads .

I have about 10 chargers, tenders ,etc. from the late 40s to present . The one I use the most is a SnapOn that does AGM and conventional. I never spent time wondering why an AGM requires a different charger / charging profile than a gel cell , flooded cell , glass/mat , VRLA or all the others . These bikes all use an alt/reg combo that charges everything. W/all that out of the way , you just purchase the charger w/AGM feature and push AGM on the selector.

I have a pigtail attached to all my bike batteries and it hangs out the side panel. My battery chargers all have this disconnect on the charge leads . This is where I can plug/unplug from each bike w/o any fuss and charge each battery . I get this stuff @ NAPA because it is close. The lead that is permanent has ring terminals and attaches to the battery + and - posts. hang the wire out the side of the bike making sure the seat or anything else is not going to damage the cable. There's a protective cap to cover the plug to keep out bad stuff. If your charger does not have this and you want to splice this into a charger , CHECK polarity every time you cut/splice any wires and use a voltmeter to check when you are finished . This two part wire has a slick and a lined indicator on the insulation also but just to be safe check when you are finished. The theory about disconnecting the battery when charging this bike , I will have to think about . For now , just charge as low a charge rate as you can. I have found that batteries that are completely discharged , install a fully charged battery in parallel with the charger . This allows you to charge up the discharged battery when the charger would not even read the dead battery. This saves you from throwing away a salvageable battery .

How 'bout you explain the reason for your question ? We will be able to help answer you . First , check the oil level ! If the light is staying on after you start and you are concerned . unplug the wire , turn the key on and touch the wire to ground , the light should go out. These are a n.o. switch and when pressure builds it closes and the light goes out. If this works go to the next step To verify flow , remove the switch and put a bunch of shop towels over the hole and crank the engine . If oil sprays out . Get ready for the volume , it may be a squirt and it might spray onto the wall. You're on your own w/this test. If no oil comes out , maybe the oil filter has spun off . Warning , these filters come loose . So get ready . This light and your attention means everything !