gstallons

Watch all the other videos in that block also . It will help to understand Hall Effect v regular sensors . Regular inductive sensors peoduce a sine wave & Hall Effect produce a square wave. Don't trust everything you see on these . Such as 500 ohms being less than 2point 5 zero zero ohms !

IDK what the clearance specs are , but this is VERY important .

From what I can see , if any of my bikes looked like that , I would prefer to "waller around" on the ground instead of a bike stand .

My red frame has the same combo as yours . My black frame has an external fuel pump. There's one thing for certain , nothin's for certain .

"maybe" ......

Come in if you can get in !

I have them into categories . Red frame / black frame , external / internal fuel pump. Then 2,000 ( or whatever the production #s are ) other categories .

Don't tattoo that on your body . It is subject to change . When you order parts , do a lot of "leg"work before doing anything . You do want to do this for your own benefit . The wiring diagram in the back of your owner's , have your wiring diagram enlarged and memorize everything !

Keep me posted . I'm in !

There are things better left alone

IIRC , the black frame is not too hard to grease all the fittings. The red frame , no. The front joint is impossible. As in , I gave up . And I have a Rube Goldberg grease tip.

I have a drawer full of disconnect tools for automotive use. The worst was a Ford with about 6 tongs / tines inside the fuel line connector . If it EVER went wrong you had a helluva time getting it off . I am sure the plastic elbow is very delicate . I would use shop air to get any junk out of the connector to aid in removal . Everything has a technique . It's learning that is tough .

Can you post a pic and part #s ?

IDK if there is a tool available for this connection . IFIRC , you push the hose in then push the collar back to the hose and move everything away from the fitting . You may have to twist the collar while pushing the fitting off the line. Once you master this , do it a few times and get familiar with the procedure and try to remember it.

It will or it won't . No tellin' . Also , I hope you are considering how it will look ?

I watched a video on the design and manufacture of the Spitfire a few nights ago and how important the wing deign was . I didn't realize how exaggerated it was until the video.

This is the town where The European Rider's hold their Rallye . I pay my money and miss EVERY year . It is a great place to get together . I hope to get to this one !

You never realized how this little item could make this much difference . From an H Farmall to a Japanese crotch rocket ! To the guy that designed/made this extender , what made you think of doing this ?

Mmmmm. I'm lost . Where does the Spitfire come into the equation ?

At the yellow/black wire ? No , frequency only . You would get DC if this were a square wave (pulse width modulation) signal to the tach . IDT this was this the case w/this setup . Or , no I didn't check the alternator output voltage . I can check both of these if I need to .

Whew . These bikes should be sold by serial number breaks , not model year designations .

Who knows ? as w/MG , there is one thing for certain , there's nothing for certain! Looking at my Red frame and Black frame bikes , the red frame has 40mm unpainted forks and the black frame has 40mm painted forks. I have a 43mm painted fork out in the shop and it has the different fork cap/adjuster setup from the others. These measurements are taken on the lower portion of the fork leg. Take pictures and measurements before you do anything. p.s. buy a parts manual so you can be sure , amused , entertained and thoroughly confused.

I checked my Greenie just while ago . At pin 3 (yellow/black stripe) I got 50hz at idle . At 3k I measured around 150hz. HTH . Sorry for the delay .

Yep , trust me . I know after ordering all the stuff to reseal my forks . The gold anodized forks are of course Ohlins . The other ones are Marzocchi . Unpainted and painted . Early and late model . Look at the fork caps to be sure about the Marzocchi . The painted forks in the above picture are late model forks . There are no absolutes on this , so just go by pictures to match them up .

Hmmmm , the pin 3 or pin 5 depending on which model bike you have is the tach signal wire . I will try to poke around my bike tomorrow to see what the output is at idle and 1500 RPM . I will hook up some contraption and see what I get .