gstallons

it was said , when he was interviewed (?) for the documentary , Ken quickly realized it was quickly becoming The Shelby Foote Show and he had to make adjustments !

He was the most perfect Southern Gentleman of all time .

It is a free country.......... I hope you are planning on tightening the timing belt(s) before you rev-up the engine .

You do realize , as beautiful as it is , it is SOLID .

No , now is the time to check , clean and make all ground connections PERFECT . Grease , shakeproof washers , the works . IDK if this is the culprit , but it is a place to start . With the terminals done , you need to trim back to good wire and install a new device . What do you have access to ? The CB is the premium way to go !

LowRyter , I would flip the relay holder over , remove the relays and snug up ALL the terminal connectors & do the same thing with the fuse holder . Install the grease of your choice and see what happens. Make all your work deliberate and record all your step by step work .

I did this as a preventative measure some time ago. I installed a larger relay into the circuit going to the starter solenoid . This remove the load from the factory wiring harness , fuses or relays . The original wire to the starter solenoid activates the relay with the relay controlling the starter solenoid . Pin 85 to ground , pin 30 to 12v , pin 86 to factory solenoid wire and pin 87 to the starter solenoid . I have done this on my 03 and I have done this on Ford farm tractors with Lucas starters . Any time you can make a Lucas anything work better...........

Yeah.......

Is that for a Paris-Dakar crotch rocket ?

You're probably gonna have to get off $6-8k ... Are you ready ?

How did this fuel clean the crankcase and how could swapping back and forth seize the engine ? I run straight gas in everything air cooled I have . I want it to start and I don't want expanded rubber parts in my fuel system(s) . Expensive , yes . I don't even look at the price . There is a website pure-gas.org is a site that has a list of stations offering this fuel . Google this site and look around .

That's the same article I found out how wrong I was . I thought the were mixing up Bob Seger in there somewhere . BTW , just about everything Ken Burns does is GREAT . It may not be perfectly accurate , but it is good enough . This documentary also brought to the public Shelby Foote . THE MAN .

Don't tell me the clue is above me

I'm clueless . fill me in .

All I see is one small square .

I see you made it ?

I had one test done . It was given as a birthday present . It should have come with a disclaimer "for entertainment purposes only" .

You simply buy another bike . You need one more !

I hope you have tested the battery voltage and found it above 12.5 v and tested it during cranking . above 12.5v . You can test the starter on the bike by running a jumper lead from the spade terminal on the solenoid to the large terminal of the solenoid . If the battery and everything else is good , it should crank . If it does , your problem is in the bike's wiring. P.S. hitting on a permanent magnet starter will give you bad results . The magnets will come loose or break . When you have more than two segments in the starter case , you have trouble .

Yes . you should get 12v at this wire with KOEO . If so , ground this lead and your light should be on . If it is , the oil pressure switch is bad .

You loan your tool to someone and they blip the throttle ( 8k) and your mercury disappears !

First things first . With KOEO and the oil pressure switch unplugged , the wire should have battery voltage . You have a good circuit . 12v . If it does go to the next step . When you ground the wire at the oil pressure switch with the KOEO the light should be on . Y or N ?

I'm sure you could go with a 1/8'' dia. hole and see how it works .

You will soon forget the farm tractor shift quality of the original linkage !

The ONLY hard part is the staked screws !