gstallons

Good job .

I am with docc . If someone else has been fixing things , they have probably f'd with this too . Check everything . Disclaimer : I am not smart , just full of ignorant mistakes and learned from a few .

Intense and incredible . Are you a machinist by trade ? How did you find these parts to begin with ?

go to an electrical supply store for terminals , heat shrink tube , etc. I will study the side stand circuit and let you know . Is your N light on or off at all times ?

I fixed my black frame by using the start relay to power a larger relay to operate the starter solenoid . Pretty good idea . I used it on our farm tractor to keep from burning up the N switch or starter solenoid . It has been working for 12 years . Remember , relays are used to handle amperage a switch can't / shouldn"t carry .

I have gone to uninsulated butt connectors and heat shrink . This is the only approved method for FoMoco wiring repairs . I have done it for 3 years now and will never go back to anything else . Get this and practice doing it . After talking to smarter people a long time ago , I threw away about 5 lbs. of the Scotch-Lock connectors . P.S. do not modify the factory wiring unless you know what you're doing and why you're doing it . The guy that messed up the original wiring had good intentions . He just knew enough to mess things up . You should be able to get good uninsulated butt connectors and heat shrink w/gooey inside to make repairs . You can buy the good stuff where they sell good stuff .

Scotch-Lok is the FECES of all FECES . That sh!T is everywhere . Especially on trailers .

And we would have heard the F-word all over the continent !

My red frame and black frame have 5 connectors at the # 1 position . Check underneath the block and see if the wire has dropped out and is touching something .

Let me check both bikes and get back to you .

You may have a problem with the wiring connectors in each socket . You should remove each connector and tighten each one .

Do you have any sockets with 5 terminal ? Check all of them and let me know .

Your headlight flickers ? Look at your wiring diagram . It shouldn't . You may have a problem with one or more relays ( provided the wiring is good ) and you need to replace the headlight relay or all of them w/the Omron relays .

Yep . You can consider this a load shedding relay . It removes the headlight system to concentrate on the ignition / starting system . Pretty good idea !

50 ft.lbs. is enough !

Do you have your original owner's manual ? does you wiring diagram in the back of the book show fuse 8 being used or is it empty ?

This may / may not help you , but you should replace all relays w/the part # docc gave you . this is going to be a small problem causing a lot of trouble .

For Docc & Phil : they have been "in tank" since the 80s and the tanks have been both metal and plastic .

Yep . But dumbass antics aren't exclusive to The Bluegrass State . My ex wife's grandfather had a fuel tank off a Model T (I think) because he thought it had water in the tank . He was straddling the tank as it was on the ground , he lit a match and got it near the neck of the tank to look inside . KABOOOM , he looked like a 300 lb. cartoon character going 15' in the air ! When he regained consciousness , he decided the tank was clean and no longer useful.

FWIW : old garages used to weld up rusty fuel tanks . They would remove the tanks and run an exhaust pipe into the empty fuel tank , poke a hole ( about 3/8'' ) into the uppermost part of the tank , start up the donor car . After a few minutes , braze , led or weld away . After finishing , they would fill in the man made hole and call it good . I'm not sure if these were men or fools ?

First answer ; there is not enough air in the tank to allow a "burn" to take place .

Hmmmm , sounds like a new topic time . My First Crash & Burn .

Like , you used to hang out w/them ?

A Honda 90 at 55mph . Not for me