gstallons

Have you been able to toggle the switch as this is taking place ? Same results ?

Have you done any more to your bike to diagnose this problem ?

If you ride this today , see how it does as you do a graduated ride , getting a little faster , a little faster , a little faster until it stops . Now , when you say stop : it dies , it slows down , it quits ? You make sure we understand what you are experiencing .

I have know idea how talent happens and how it is born , discovered , nurtured and matures . I just know - it happens !

I thought they had gone under , Googled them and found a website , so I wasn't absolutely sure . Hmmm. I need to be certain before making statements ?

There are available a "test relay" that will plug into the receptacle and it has a toggle switch . You can turn the relay on/off to test the circuit to see if the fuel pump comes on and stays on . with this you can decide if you have a good 12v at the relay and if you have a good 12v going to the fuel pump. I got mine from Snap-On . any good tool truck will have these. I will look out in the shop and take a pic of one and try to show it on here or I can send you a pic to your phone .

explain this staccato drum roll ?

Things happen......

If any of you are located near a hydraulics repair facility , they can hook you up w/the right stuff or offer you some improved products .

It is sometimes called a gasket but you can call it what you want look into the open portion of your filter and it has an o-ring or quad seal fubber that seals the oi; from spraying out . Good quick-lube shops require their employees to examine the filter when they remove it and also look at the mounting surface to make sure nothing is stuck to the block. AFA the reason it sticks , who knows . The "fix" is to examine the mating surface and a smear of oil to the seal on installation. You don'twant to lose an engine just because of this .

The most important inspection you will ever make .

Ohhhhh. This should be called obituary instead of Classifieds .

Make sure the filter wrench you buy works on the filter you are removing and you use the SAME brand oil filter you are installing. The "end" of the filter has to be the same design to work. I know , I have about 10 cup type filter wrenches and no brand has the same "end cap" size/design.

I Googled Shindy last night and saw plenty of choices . M/I is a top notch M/G dealership . I will have to check and see what they have . The Bitubo rebuild sounds good too .

what were you running on the throttle bodies , K & N ?

Where did you come up w/the Shindy damper and part # plz ?

Do you subscribe to Machinery & Lubrication magazine ?

Easy , what does your manual call for ? My book calls for 20w50. W/that being said , we live in a free country. Personally , I would run the Castrol . IDK anything about Motorex brand oils.

Welcome and feel free to participate. I hope you enjoy owning your bike .

Is that your Quota at 3:26 ?

I would go with an injector cleaning services . Using these companies will test before and after rates to show "if' needed and how bad they were . Find one company and stick with them. You need to keep your injectors and not buy these cheap alternatives ! I had this one co-worker make the perfect statement "When did you ever regret buying the best?" I have not forgotten this and will stick with it !

If you have a temp gun or IR camera , this will tell you a LOT . You want to go for a 10 / 15 min ride and check ea. side in the same spot for the best reading .

VHT products are good stuff

You could use a temp gun and check the temp at each ex. pipe to see how close they are in ex. temp and decide if one side is off.