gstallons

Kelly , whatever you do , you keep this device dedicated to brake fluid ONLY . No mixing brake fluid with any petroleum products . Good luck . When Ford first started using hydraulic clutches on trucks , there was NO procedure that worked 100 % of the time .

is that a brand ?

Docc , if you want to move this to another category , please do .

Hmmmm . Do you have that much time to discuss ?

Is this a question or statement ?

This was a JOB . I purchased rubber boots to try them to fix my misfire , popping , running like shite , crummy performance , etc. I got no advice on how to swap them out & decided to DIY . I separated the throttle bodies and pulled them out of the way and took a razor blade and split the boots . I realized I wasted my time with them and got to looking at the fuel injectors \ throttle body walls . The l.h. side showed flooding and the r.h. side was ultra-lean . Then it was X to do something . I just started taking things apart . short term memory loss ( I bought/lost 3 of the 3mm sockets while doing this ) and the fact it took way too long on the injector travel time made it an adventure on reassembly . When you do this you will need an empty fuel tank , a 2.5mm and a 3mm (stubby) SnapOn allen socket & a 45 degree external snap ring pliers , picks and regular tools . Do not ever go cheap $ on tools . I will come up with a procedure when I do the red frame injectors and get them done . If I ever get smart enough I will learn to transfer phone to computer photos. If anyone wants to PM their # I can send ( today ) a pic of the throttle bores to see WHY I did this .

I separated them . That is where the 1,000 pics will come in .

PERFECTION . Today my bike attained perfection . I finally got my injectors back from RC Fuel Injection and finished the installation & adjustments . After two days of no-starts I realized I had a f'd up PowerCommander . Removed the PC and the first cylinder that came up , ZOOOM . It started like it never started before . I let it warm-up and took off to get gas . 1/2 mile before I get to the station , I ran out of fuel . Laid the bike over to get as much fuel as possible on the left side , restarted and on to the gas pump . A full tank of fuel and the long way home made me smile . NO hick-ups , nothing but perfect throttle response and perfect stop sign take-off and acceleration . 16k miles and a lot of sitting had me a clogged injector on one side and a poor spray pattern on the other . For anyone on this site w/any drivability or performance issues , please remove the throttle bodies and have your injectors serviced . This was NOT an easy task , be sure and take 1,000 pictures to know how things are supposed to come apart / go back together .

Maybe . The owner needs to watch the throttle linkage and make sure the throttle plates return to zero . The air cleaner housing to TBs can be loosened and pushed away to verify there is nothing keeping the throttle plates from working properly .

There are a multitude of "things" you can use on the ground strap . I would use a serrated washer along with Contax . It is a grease electricians use on ground connections . The bottle I have is a catalog # CTB8 . You need a complete circuit for things to be perfect . W/O witnessing your problem , I don't know what you need to cure your bike .

I was joking .......about the purchase . This would be ( if it existed ) an in person deal , with the understanding you might be getting a parts bike .

I missed what you are doing here....... please explain . are you fixing a ground connection ?

But it's half price ?

Yeah , I like the remortgage to valve adjustment part !

Hmmmmm . tank slapper . I do not care for them .

Your professional skills are showing .

99% of all spark plugs are resistor plugs . The 10k combined r is correct .

Yes , replace the plug cap only . You would NOT want to swap wires because you would probably end up removing the tank IDK the r value of the OEM cap . 5k sounds about right . I would check a good one and try to get caps w/the same r value just to be safe .

They are solid core wires . You can verify this by removing the caps and looking into the end of the cable and see copper strands .

Well , here is the news . Caps only screw onto solid core wires. It can be done , but it would be stupid . Resistor wires use crimped on ends and a tail of the inside lead is exposed and folded over when the end is crimped on . There is NO need to use a resistor cap on resistor wires . It would be redundant and serve no purpose .

You got that right !

Are you sure you don't mean H-pipe ? These were on factory dual exhaust cars in the 60s and had some kind of affect on the performance .

I bought one and haven't used it yet . I think I got it from Motion-Pro . It is something inexpensive and a very cheap tool to get a good result .

MOST caps that go on solid core wires screw onto the wire . Look down into the cap , you will see what looks like a sheet metal screw .This goes into the solid core . An original wire may be bonded to the cap and you will have to cut the wire to discard the original cap .

I don't think you could get the same amount of debris in the same place on the triple clamps / fork legs .