gstallons

And those bolts don't jump out of there or back in !

Uhhhhhh , Hmmm

MMMMM . maybe one at a time ?

I used Hylomar on the gaskets when changing the oil/filter on my black frame . Sparingly is the key on anything you put on a gasket . The Permatex anaerobic gasket sealant is a good product too . There are lots of good products , you just have to know the application . You know when you have used the correct amount when it just oozes out of the mating surfaces . i have seen rednecks use a whole tube of silicone seal on a timing cover / water pump job ! I will NEVER use silicone after having to GO BACK through a 1.8l Ford Escort engine after the oil pump / block gasket oozed out and started leaking engine oil . This was a good twenty five years ago and I still have the taste in my mouth !

No , fill it FULL and try doing this .

This will be on the l.h. side of the bike , from 1-5 o'clock and on the r.h. side , from 7-11 0'clock .

Mmmmmm . I want this

With a new one

The foil is GONE .

I'm glad someone can post pics . These are just like mine

If you are using the Casper's , your DVOM will show either a pos. or neg. V reading . I used terminals {meter lead ends) that I could plug my meter leads directly into .

If you want to know what amperage this starter solenoid is drawing ; purchase a mechanical ammeter / amp gauge and wire it into the wiring terminal at the end of the harness that plugs onto the solenoid . Then go through the ammeter and back into the spade at the solenoid . Crank the engine and see what A it uses to operate the starter . It may go to max A in the beginning . Just see how much it takes to operate the starter . This will be the amperage required to operate the solenoid . Make your decisions then . I was too lazy to do all this .

Well , it worked and didn't catch fire .... That's good enough for me !

What work has been done in the past ? Go back to when you did not have trouble . You will figure out what is wrong .

You do NOT want to ruin an engine , be deliberate and be careful

They get heavier EVERY year .

As long as I am alive , you will NOT be the the worst .....

No , when you start drawing your own diagrams , you are getting better . Keep it up . You will only get better . Use the V11 diagram to compare with and judge your work with . Also , take your diagram to an office store , have it enlarged & laminated .

There is no proper sequence for hydraulics . You just have to TRY what worked last time . Since there is no last time..... i have a (can't remember the name) hydraulic bleed kit and reverse bleed . Open the bleeder , connect hose and force fluid back through the slave up through the master and catch the fluid and air bubble(s) . You want the master to be as level as possible to get the air out . Also , you can push the fluid from the master through the slave to get the air out too . Keep the master as level as possible too . Good luck & use DOT 4 fluid

Bridge , did you get the clutch working ?

You can take the correct size wrench and loosen the nut by one flat and retighten the nut until it is SNUG . Or you can remove the tank and install a new o-ring and remove the tank 3 Xs , install a new low level sensor just to realize you could have done Step # 1 .

The OTC 7103 set is probably the best to use .

Uhhh , you have about $100 worth of picks and use caution & hope for the best ! Worst of all , make sure not to gouge the bore of the fork tube .

look on Youtube . 3M AU-205 starting motor magnet adhesive . If I knew how to put it on here , I would .

What does Google say ?