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gstallons

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Everything posted by gstallons

  1. It will get easy after the 30th X. We give opinions and advice . It is up to you to diagnose and do the correct repairs . Have a seat and evaluate what you think is the problem .
  2. This question is dumb , are both spark plugs NEW ? some older automobile garages have scopes and can measure the kV output of each wire .
  3. 400 ohms , not enough to worry about adjust the linkages as I described earlier . you are wanting the base throttle plate angle to be identical .
  4. What brands do you sell ?
  5. Well , I stand corrected . It is 0.540 V not 0.450 V . This is the target V to reach when adjusting the desired throttle angle . Sorry .
  6. I will have to look at my info again n report back
  7. Scura is bad to the bone . The matte finish , YEOW !
  8. If you want to put this in a better section , please do . AFA , to answer the 2nd ? , I printed and studied about four procedures and used what I thought was best . They all agreed on 0.157V at closed throttle ( idle screw out ) . After everything was done , adjust the throttle plate to 0.450V ( according to three procedures ) for the ECM reference to idle . One procedure said 0.540V . I took that to me maybe a mistaken # . I still have a ream of paper from WG , MGC and others on the directions somewhere around here . This was a very difficult thing to get four recipes on banana pudding and get one that tasted perfect .And I love bananapuddin' . Yes , that is the correct pronunciation . . After dialing in Whitney ( red frame ) to PERFECTION , I went back to the black frame . 8 NGKs , two stranded on the side of the roads , and making sure I had arson insurance , I unhooked the Power Un Commander . The moment I started cranking the bike I knew what was wrong . THE PC was f'd up . I did all this because I denied the PC was at fault .
  9. Wise men always discount their knowledge
  10. And , when you finish all this , adjust the idle stop screw to achieve 0.450 V on the TPS .
  11. It is easier to do than you think . Read , reread and execute . Disconnect the balance rod . Adjust the l.h. idle screw in until you can hold the 0.002" feeler ga. with the screw against the throttle linkage , remove and turn the idle screw 1/6 of a turn in . Now , Put this 0.002" feeler gauge between the r.h.idle stop screw and the throttle plate "plate" and tighten the screw until it holds the feeler gauge . Connect the balance shaft rod and make sure there is still pressure holding the feeler gauge . I use the pin that goes into the throttle body instead of the ball/socket of the balance rod . There is an e-clip holding this pin in position . Be careful removing it . This is easier and more precise . You want to adjust this "knob" so the pin goes into it's position easily . With all this in place , start tightening the white knob , when things are correct , the feeler gauge falls out and you are done . PERFECT , no . Good enough for me , yes . I regret not being smart enough to post pics or videos . Go over the directions until you can do this w/o thinking or second guessing yourself . I use the 0.002" blade because that is as thin as my set goes and I leave it the gauge with the rest of the assy. to give it some weight . This is because it will fall as soon as it gets loose . i
  12. First , remove the oil pressure switch , cover the hole with a rag , crank it up to see if oil shoots out . if not , remove the oil filter cover to see if the filter is on and on correctly . If you did get a spray of oil , it is probably an oil pressure sender . This does happen . Simply replace it .
  13. Well , you didn't loan yours out either . I wasn't there to see how it happened and I got everything back but the Hg . Did you keep the Flintstone mobile dialed in ?
  14. Experience . Both good and bad
  15. You use a manometer with mercury and you will see the mercury disappear at the first blip of the throttle ! P.S. any fluid will do the same thing .
  16. Ahhh , you haven't lived until something expensive hits the ground . Dwell meters , DVOMs , timing lights into the fan .
  17. As in completely closed throttle plate / 0.157 V ?
  18. Don't worry , there will always be a third , then a fourth .
  19. Air leaking at / from the throttle shafts is irrelevant to anything . This air introduction into the intake runner is the same as adjusting the idle air screw(s) . The only time something like this matters is , if a MAF and or an O2 sensor is involved . This is the most basic form of fuel injection I have ever seen with no MAP sensor , no 02 sensor , the way this system transitions from open to closed loop , the lack of a vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator , MANY things . This could have had everything incorporated and a BADASS system ! af
  20. Uhhhh , can you explain this word burr and mechanism a little more ?
  21. ok . # 1 the TPS is to be adjusted ( if you don't have the TPS jumper , you can measure at the pcm ) to 0.157 v at closed throttle , idle stop screw backed out & not touching , throttle balance rod unhooked . Then adjust throttle linkage , THEN after everything is PERFECT , adjust the idle stop screw to =.450 v . I have some procedures ( somewhere on this site ) to give you advice on how to do this . Read , read and reread until you understand this . After your epiphany , you will be POd that you made something difficult out of something so easy . Good luck & HTH
  22. Why does everyone else's bike look PERFECT ?
  23. You will do exactly like I did , live with it and don't dwell on it . I know SAE says you need the width of the nut on a fastener . This just doesn't look right and I don't think two threads on two nuts is going to destroy your bike .
  24. Uh oh ! I mentioned them a while back and got shot down breathing a word about them . BTW , these spark plugs are the result of running way too rich . Have you properly synched the throttle bodies , adjusted the min air screws and set the TPS ? This may not do any good but you will eliminate this as a factor .
  25. Are you good w/a DVOM and reading wiring diagrams ? Check the resistance of both the air temp sensor and the cylinder head ( oil temp ) sensor at the ECU connector . They had better be the same of within 250 ohms . If you are running a PowerCommander , take it off and try it . I messed with mine all this spring to find out the PC was !@#$%^ up .
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