gstallons

You cannot operate this bike w/o this forum . Make sure you have a large wiring diagram , an analog and digital meter , a degree in electricity / electronics , a good shop , $10k worth of tools , the strength to push a bike 1/4 mile ( 0.4k ) and a good attitude . Oh yeah , a Japanese bike too .

That is where your skills come into play . If I wanted to get on a bike , to start , get there , come back and pull in the shop w/o a hitch , I'd ride the V-Strom !

It looks good . Get it .

You should get the spacer too . When you do this , fill the bearing with a GOOD grease . It seems as though all bearings have just enough grease to keep them from rusting . Bearings like this (minor movement) should be filled completely on installation .

It was ? hmmmmmm .

I could listen to this man for a week w/o interruption .

IDK what ROTW is , but I can convert to F....-5.8F

Did I see you in an episode of Miami Vice ?

Call me a pu$$y , but I can put up with 99 degrees and 99% humidity any day . This idiot takes enuff blood thinner , my blood is red water & I sleep under a sheet , 2 army blankets and a weighted blanket in the summer .

Yeow ..... that's COLD .

Are there any numbers on the ( I know how small it is ) seal or what is the MG part # ?

What did you do with the old one ? You should be able to massage it back to normal .

Dale Walksler was his own man : he operated on his time , his frequency , his way and he was a great man . this place is on my bucket list .

Woooo . Angus MacGyver !

As I posted in another forum here , I went to NAPA and got a castle nut 27mm/ 1 1/16" and welded a 3/8" extension to the nut . For a couple of dollars , it does the job .

BTW , filter "sockets" are exclusive to the brand filter . Find one brand filter you are going to be happy with , find a socket that fits it and stick with them .

I went to NAPA and found a castle(front wheel bearing adjusting)nut 27mm hex and welded a short 3/8" extension to the nut . AHA ! Now all I have to do is find it when the time comes . FWIW , when you are installing the manhole cover , push it up into the cavity and slowly turn it CCW like you are removing it . When you hear it click , stop and start tightening the cover . no crossthreading again !

That's right ....... Anyone removing their fuel tank needs to do this. It also gave me clearance at the rear of the BRAND NEW PRISTINE condition tank I installed couple of years ago that rubbed the paint off in a few places from expansion . I am still not smart enough to post pics , but I ground down to the top of the lettering on the pucks .

I like your mission statement !

I cut an arc 10mm thick off the pucks and about 1/3 around . Drilled and pinned them so they wouldn't spin and installed the tank . P.S. the leak was at the retaining nut . Installed another sensor (used) from a 2000 tank & had to swap connector because it was DIFFERENT . BTW , the tank fell onto the bike !

You know you've looked at these diagrams way too long when you could put on a clinic with them BEHIND your back .

I have diagrams galore in this old crock next to my computer/work station along with two service manuals and two parts manuals for the Guzzis . BTW , laminate the big one and use erasable multi-color markers to keep things easy to clean up after the conferences .

Good luck and good hunting

Back to the wiring diagram , have it blown up to the max at Office Depot and be done with it . Mine is a 3'' X 4" .

Rod ends are available for the part that freezes and breaks.... MotionPro maybe ?