gstallons

The voice of experience ?

These are like stereo systems/speakers . Everyone else's sound better .

Well , the 10th digit will tell you the year of production . 4 will be 2004 . As far as the rest of your question , someone smarter than me will answer that . BTW , I hope you enjoy !

AFA either bike , I don't think the owners would negotiate a good price . The Scura would be my pic . Either one , you would want to give the owner THE Vulcan mind probe to be sure of what you were getting . some people keep records and some don't . I play with mine TOO much to record anything . Hmmmmm . If a person were going , take a friend to say yes or no .

You better get a professional opinion before you get to tightening things up

A head guard and pipe wrap repair is small change to make it look perfect . ( If I were selling it )

What you pay , is up to you . What it is worth is up to you .

The 10th digit is the year of production . The first character is the country of origin . Z is Italy .

You can hear ANYTHING in Leon's music

Uhhh , yeah

Take a hammer and put a ding in the rod about 1/4'' from the end of the rod and press it back into the bore of the cap .

I think the best thing you can do , is get a Rosso Corsa tank . These are on eBay often , but IDK about shipping costs .

PM your cell or do you have WhatsApp ? I will send you pics ?

PM me your cell and I will send you pics in the morning .

Another easy method , use a test light and test with it . put the test light from the neg battery bolt to ground at the starter housing . Try starting the bike . IF the test light glows , you have a poor circuit / start looking . same goes for the positive circuit . Go from the positive battery bolt to the positive terminal (stud) at the starter . If it glows , start looking . A good test light is as good as ALL my Fluke meters and a lot cheaper to replace !

I have one , let me dig it out , inspect it & get w/you .

Remove the switch and check continuity of the switch . Push the button/pin in and see what you get . One way should be open and one way closed . If not ,, try electrical cleaner and "pop" the plunger about 20 times and keep using electrical cleaner until it works .

It is perfect looking . The last bid is around $2350 ?

Brian , are you gonna leave us hangin' ? You don't have a blown up engine until you know you have a blown up engine .

Well , I am glad I looked before I gave my worthless opinion . They do produce a contactless Hall effect sensor that can be used in place of a wiper/pot set-up . If you can get it in the correct range and configuration , your problems are over !

I'm THE authority on ruining things . Get the Heli-Coil and practice on some junk til you feel confident in what you're doing . It's easy . If a Simpleton like myself can do it , you can too !

Alright : drop the pan and check for metal in the pan and metal in the oil . Rotate the engine to where the rods are at the bottom of the crank and inspect the big ends of the rods ..... discoloration , stuff hanging out , loose on the c/shaft . Look up at the oil filter and see if it is loose or if the o-ring has spit out of the oil filter base . Report back .

Relax , it will take a while before everyone sees this stuff .

Parts cattle dog ? Hmmm. Yes , it was not fun swapping it out . You only do it once though !