gstallons

The people I was hanging around with doing angel dust were talking out of their heads just like these AI idiots except they knew they were talking out of their heads ! This AI speak disappoints me .

$20-26k ? Whew.

I was trying to find any angle that could have been attractive...... uh , none

I wonder if these AI robots are doing angel dust ?

Make sure you are using the wiring diagram supplied w/your owner's manual.

I "think" the fuel level sensor is a capacitive type sensor . I THINK. If you disconnected it and the gremlins went away , you could be sure it was low on fuel or the sensor was messed up.

Now that this is fixed . Get the wiring diagram (in the back of your owner's manual and have it enlarged making a dozen copies w/6 of them 8.5 X 11 and 6 of them LARGE . You will need this for down the road . Also , go back through this forum and find ALL of Kiwi_Roy's diagrams and make copies. I think he posted maybe eight total. I have them and could not find them .or it would have been VERY helpful. Also , get relay connectors and splice them into the existing wiring . It will clean things up and make future work easy.

Put all this input down on paper and check off everything after each test and verify the original system was/is working w/the modified system . The factory lighting has a dim light w/the key on . When you apply flash to pass the bright light should come on and go out when you remove your finger. Also the headlight should be on w/the key on and go out when you push the start button and the starter cranks .

Is relay 2 still in the relay gang ? r1 start r2 headlight r3 sidestand r4 ECU r5 injection and are ALL fuses in place and are good ? As mentioned earlier , pin 86 (normally) goes to ground , ,pin 85 to switch , pin 30 to b+ and pin 87 to headlamp dim or bright . You are using two relays for this purpose . If this is wired into the factory wiring correctly , all relays are in place and fuses are good , it should be working.

Any MG dealer has/can get these . get two and have a standby. The grease is a brand / type of grease. Everyone has their preference .

In this case , whatever you want . If you were cleaning and regreasing a roller bearing in a wheel . As CLEAN as possible and a hi-temp wheel bearing grease , w/just enough grease . You don't want too much or it will overheat .

Set the record straight. Stator=the portion of the alternator charging system that remains stationary. Rotor= the portion of the alternator charging system that rotates/spins .

This should have been mentioned at the beginning : after Weegie's epiphany , no one can help you with this until you find out what type of mods have been made to this bike's wiring . It appears that two relays are installed to control the headlight low and hi beams. W/O a proper wiring diagram no one can help you . Was this like this when you purchased the bike or did you do this work ?

You say you "swapped pin 86 relay wires" there are two wires involved ? true. Which two wires are you swapping ? The wires / colors , are they factory color and factory wiring . We can't help you w/o complete info. It looks like there are two relays that are in this system . are the both the same where the relay has two 87 pins ?

Swapping the wires at pin 86 and what ? Pins 86 and 85 normally consist of a ground and a switched ign.voltage . This controls the coil to energize the relay . Pressing the headlight flasher , as in "flash to pass" ?

I have never removed the swingarm bearings but I know they are extremely "in there". A+ on the clean & repack IF they are not rusty. Lots of brake-kleen and compressed air to clean them up. When/if you go this route , pack them full of wheel bearing grease and put the dust shield back on. If you know someone w/a threaded puller to pull the bearings out this might be a good idea . I know a real good heat gun is needed to get them out / in if you go this route. If you accomplish this , pack the new roller bearings w/grease . New bearings have just enuf grease in them to not rust.

Gotcha !

So , you got the bike in this "condition" ?

The D 10 Cat dozer was one example . 85 & 86 had opposite tasks than normal and I was up on top of that dozer for 6 hrs trying to fix the condenser fans .

You ought to be the dumba$$ that finds these things out !

I think I have crossed this path before w/this style of relay , IDK . My memory is good or bad or both . IDK what the wiring diagram is on the application . I could blabber a little better then. In Europe this is in concrete . I was composing / making some drawings to make things absolute. Guess what , sometimes 85 & 86 are opposite , where 85 is switched b+ and 86 is - they can be changed to 85 - and 86 is switched b+ . Keep in mind a diode in the relay might not like this. Same with 30 and 87 . Instead of 30 being b+ and 87 is the load , 87 is the b+ and 30 becomes the load. This source of the diagram I referred to is from a Ford wiring diagram ca. 1999-2000 F-series electrical manual. Here , everything is a case by case situation. Like the Cat dozer I was telling about earlier.

I should have looked THOROUGHLY before I rambled on. Yes this does have a relay that turns on both 87 terminals when turned on . to power both terminals . Be careful when replacing this to use THIS style only . IDK if this has a part # on the relay or in the paperwork ? Ya learn something new every day .

The relays that are identified in the pic have 30 85 86 87 & 87a on the terminals . Wired normally 30 is b+ and 87 goes to the load .87a is the terminal that the power goes to when the relay is not energized . Terminal 86 is ground and terminal 85 is the switch power to turn on the relay. This is in most cases I have seen terminal 87 have b+ and 30 go to the load. Also 86 and 85 can be reversed. Why these are reversed on these terminals , IDK . Read / understand your wiring diagram(s). I spent 3hrs on top of a D-10 diagnosing a problem because my dim supervisor wasn't smart enough to print a wiring diagram for me. Now for the lesson . Some relays have a diode or resistor in parallel w/the coil in terminals 85 & 86 . The diode is polarity sensitive , the resistor is not. The diode is there for when the magnetic field collapses and sends the voltage spike to ground . This v spike can be up to 50v . As you know ,you do not need this much v going back into your sensitive PCM . Why 30 & 87 are reversed , IDK ? Same as 85 & 86 . W/all this being said , get familiar w/ DC , wiring diagrams and the trinkets you add on . BTW , get rid if the bullet connectors. Spade terminals for them and put connector grease in them. The relay connection , install a proper relay connector that you can plug the relay into. You pulling these off one at a time in the dark w/it raining might become difficult. Buy good stuff and do a professional job . If you had a watercraft or aircraft , you would NOT want Cooter going to WalMart and putting parts on your stuff .

I got one hangin' on the wall I paid $100 to carbon fiber wrap to find out there is a difference ! Ouch

As long as the cavity at the rear of the housing is the same , it will work.