gstallons

We have been discussing cap reforming at work for about 6 mos. (at first I thought this was a bunch of ____) . If a Freq ( Variable Frequency Drive )drive sits for more than 3 mos. , this procedure needs to be performed or you can have LOUD firecrackers in the Freq Drive . If you have ever seen a exploded cap it is ugly . I'm not sure what types , style or size this is limited to . Google or YouTube this procedure for more info . p.s. you can check them w/a meter and they can test good but when you put them in service , POW !

Is it ok to discuss "reforming" & or replacing caps on this topic ?

Al , I just ordered some from Waytek . Pretty good price . 50 min ea. # is the only drawback . www.corsa-technic.com is a good place too

You will see once you use the weatherstrip adhesive . 3M is the brand . And the bolt threads is where it goes . You can use a dab of hi-temp grease on the pushrod tip .

If you do anything , wire brush the bolt threads , clean with brake cleaner , dry and apply a small amount of weatherstrip ( none on the first few threads ) adhesive to the threads , allow to dry and install . A strip about 10mm wide around the threads . This will act as an adhesive. I apply a dri-film graphite spray to clean /dry clutch splines to prevent rust and allow smooth operation . The dry graphite does not ge on the clutch or flywheel surfaces

That is what the Dyy Film Graphite Spray is for .

What type of plier / tool is used to crimp these terminals ?

Merry Christmas from W. Ky .

It's good to hear from you

When you get to the point of installation , take some threaded rod and cut into alignment dowels to aid in alignment and installation .

I am sorry. I meant UBS not USB . The UBS fasteners have a flange made into them . Just remove one and get the same length , size etc . at a japanese m/cycle or car dealership . The only difference will be the head size .e.g. an 8mm ( Japanese/Asian ) bolt will have a 12mm head and others will have a 13mm head. IDK if Fastenal stocks them .I hate buying 20 min AND PAYING FRIEGHT. Does anyone know the size & I will see if I have some ?

I have always had success with Loctite 515 gasket maker .You do not need a gasket and it replaces the gasket . Perfect preparation gets perfect results . Mark the oil seal housing before removal so it will go back on the same way it came off .As for the crank seal , leave the old seal in the oil seal housing and try sliding/installing the housing onto the rear of the engine .Use a small paper clip unfolded to where there is only one loop . Use this to help work the seal over the end of the c/shaft . When you get good and feel confident , install the new seal into the housing .Clean everything and get ready ! Use a seal installer or a good substitute to make sure the seal is installed square and flat .515 [ not too much , just enough ] on the mating surface , lightly oil the seal / c/shaft seal surface and install . IDK if this plate has a dowel pin for alignment . I use to use liquid Teflon sealer on small block Chevy head bolts since the threaded holes went directly into the coolant . I would use a USB ( shouldered ) bolt instead of the factory fastener . Good luck .

That is some of the best work I have ever seen .

Are these gears steel , aluminum or what ?

I use Motorcraft electrical grease on electrical connectors . Amen on the dielectric grease and it's misunderstood purpose .

You do understand you will need the ABS system with electronic system , wring and everything else to go ?

A #2 pencil eraser is good preparation .... Believe it or not acetone is a good contact cleaner . I watched a YouTube video where this guy was cleaning the contacts inside Fluke meters to stop ghosting and poor display . I fixed two this way . saved lot$ and they still work .

I took my 2nd 5 yr. ride yesterday . Pushed $hit out of the way for 1 hr , a shot of air in the rear tire and grunt , click click click . 15 mins on the charger and the first cylinder to TDC it fired up . Got some gear on and left . After 20 mi. I met a buddy at the end of my road. He needed four 3/4'' flat washers . Then I got a text informing me the side boom rotary mower I had been working on was not functioning properly . Freedom while it lasted !

When people ask for help , it should be a requirement they post a fix or a close with a help[ request .

Go to the Alpina website . There is a section you can custom build . If you do not see what you want , contact them .

rossopuro marketed them , alpina built them . Have you contacted alpina ?

The difference is the thread "machined quality". Plus the fact they are about 4-5 Xs the cost . AN are military and probably aircraft use only . These other fittings with paired O-rings, I'm not sure, will take a few minutes to find. HTH I remember Ford used this setup on their A/C garter spring fittings .

I thought it was silk thread / Hylomar ?

Hmmmm . Have you applied Hylomar to the gaskets ?

Google and don't be limited to choice(s) . If I had it to do again , I would get Marvic . If I could do this w/o getting caught , I might get them anyway ........