gavo

I have a rosso mandello 2001 which I believe has the same frame geometry as the red frame models and although I wouldn't say squirrelly it felt more like a pinball bouncing from one road depression to the next not to mention the harsh ride. I raised the forks 10mm, replaced the springs with progressive springs more suited to my weight and put in a slightly lighter fork oil. I replaced the back tyre with a 160/60 and had the rear shock re-valved and a slightly heavier spring for my weight. It now held a line much better and didn't bounce from divot to divot but the ride was still a bit harsh so I started backing off the dampening both rebound and compression. Dampening is now back at lowest levels the smoothness of ride has improved and despite what you might think it doesn't bounce down the road. Thats with Marzocchi forks and Sach shock.

Once the fluid boils, the water that may be in the fluid can turn to steam, plus other components of the brake fluid turn to gas. When the system cools off, most of the steam would revert to water but the other components that turned to gas stay as a gas. They do not return to being part of the brake fluid. The result is that the brake do come back but not quite back to 100% normal. Which components would they be? any parts that are liquid at say 20 deg c and then become gaseous at temperatures above its boiling point will revert back at the lower temp. Boiling the fluid is not a distilling process unless you remove the gases.

Brake fluid is Hygroscopic (it absorbs water from the atmosphere) this is the reason it should be replaced regularly. When the fluid gets hot, because of the moisture absorbed the boiling point is significantly lower, you get some vapour in the fluid and this compresses ,result, no brakes the lever goes to the stops.When it cools its all fluid again and won't compress the brake pedal returns. Just basic science a vapour can be compressed a liquid cannot.

I've had this problem too and I tend to use the front way more than the back, I assumed the fluid was a bit old and probably had moisture in it so I replaced the fluid but had a hard time getting a decent pedal. In the end I removed the calliper, put a small tyre lever in it to imitate the disc an raised the whole lot up above the height of the master cylinder. It worked , now I have a good rear brake but I'm yet to give it a good workout.

No I couldn't find it either

I've got PR3's on my rosso mandello and I'm very happy with them. 12000+ ks on a rear and 18000 on the front and still lots of life, plenty of grip.I can run the PR3 right round to the sidewall no problems, previous pirelli gave around 5000 on rear and bridgestone 6000 rear 8000 front. I only hope the PR4 are a good as or better tyre.

Although I don't have a socket on my V11 yet, I do have on my Dr suzuki 650. The things I've found 1: pick up your power from a wire that turns off with the ignition key because no matter how careful you will forget to turn it off. 2: the lighter type plug reduces power into the gps so you can't just cut of the plug and wire it in. 3: Cigarette type plugs are common and easy but not that weatherproof even the marine grade ones. 4: A problem I have is the plug coming out, this maybe not so much on a road bike( less bumps) 5: Try a Merit plug, readily available and more suited to the job and commonly used on BMW's I believe.

Now days don't you just employ a spotty teenager to hack their site and crash it. I hate anyone who scams off other peoples labor.

What a load of bollocks, mount them with direction arrow as the MANUFACTURER says don't you think they cover all problems in product testing , never have a problem and believe me it can rain pretty hard it tropical QLD PS I get the best all round performance from Michy pilots

They look great especially the seat but what would the grips be like after riding in heavy rain

Got these cheap ones from china, crystal clear and easy to get more if you break the (I have ) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231179146204?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Same here. I am on the look out for a good one. Yeah good luck with that, a friend found one $2800 barn find by the time he'd finished rebuilding it it owed him at least $12500. Don't get me wrong it's a beautiful bike but with all the work he put in and chasing parts they ain't cheap

People are holding up a Daytona winner as a good example, I would have thought a Daytona bike and a TT bike would like chalk and cheese as are the tracks. Fast on one track does not always carry over to the next.

Read an article about whisky and Australian stuff in particular a little while ago, it appears Ozzies do it very well

2001 V11 of course 2004 Suzuki Dr 650 1983 Honda xl 500 (flat tracker project) 1975 Bultaco Alpina 350 (cafe racer project)

I'm far from a whisky expert but it's been my first choice for the last 35 of my 58yrs. I love Glenmoranngie but tried some Laphroaig and felt like I'd licked an ashtray, overdid the smokey flavour lol

At 4000 rpm Mine shows 120 kph which = 74.5 mph

Congratulations, and top marks for perseverance I remember replacing the twin plate clutches on 2 ford pickups in the same week , one a six the other a V8 and for some reason friction plates faced the same way on one and opposite on the other pulled the gearbox out 3 times

I've searched and read through some of the threads however I have some specific questions. The oil (gearbox) you can smell it, appears to be coming from an area forward of the casting?, rear of gearbox that the pork chops bolt to and the slave cylinder is bolted to. I've removed most of the rear stuff (swingarm, drive shaft crossover etc) now if I unbolt the pork chops from the gearbox will I be able to get to the 2bolts I can see tucked up at the bottom of the gear box and what happens if I remove the whole rear section the the slave cylinder is mounted on? I'd hate to have to ride my Suzuki to the upcoming Guzzi rally lol

Also available here http://www.motocicliveloci.it/inglese/catalogue/strumenti_uk.htm I've dealt with this guy a couple of times and he's very helpful.

Before and after?

For the bright sparks amongst us. One night when his charge was at full capacity, Micro Farad decided to get a cute little coil to discharge him. He picked up Millie Amp and took her for a ride on his megacycle. They rode across the wheat stone bridge, around the sine wave, and into the magnetic field next to the flowing current. Micro Farad, attracted by Millie's characteristic curve, soon had her field fully excited. He laid her on the ground potential, raised her frequency, lowered her resistance, and pulled out his high voltage probe. He inserted it in parallel and began to short circuit her shunt. Fully excited, Millie cried out, "ohm, ohm, give me mho". With his tube at maximum output and her coil vibrating from the current flow, her shunt soon reached maximum heat. The excessive current had shorted her shunt, and Micro's capacity was rapidly discharged, and every electron was drained off. They fluxed all night, tried various connections and hookings until his bar magnet had lost all of its strength, and he could no longer generate enough voltage to sustain his collapsing field. With his battery fully discharged, Micro was unable to excite his tickler, so they ended up reversing polarity and blowing each other's fuses.

As someone said before, cold and free, There's so many on the market when in NZ a couple of years ago I liked lots of beers on a couple of recent trips I liked these and at between 50c and $1 abottle what's not to like lol http://www.2beerguys.com/images/forblog/beerlao.jpg http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5009/5273173999_a8b3268a16_z.jpg