HaydnR

You got rid of the airbox, where did you relocate the air temperature sensor ? Does the oil temperature sensor read ok ?

You have to remove bolt 5 just above the rocker covers as the fairing brackets 12/13 mounted under the top two rocker cover bolts need to come off

They will clear,

Hope the clutch has been sorted! Oh, and welcome!

Glad to hear that you are ok, shame about the bike but they can be replaced. Bambi burgers all round!

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Hi WG, I have seen you loitering on the mgcgb forum. Congratulations on the new purchase. The first thing to check is the bike may be reading 13000 miles but that may be when the odometer decided to stop working! Maybe not as being a 2002 it should have the white faced vague-liar which are more reliable. May you be happy for many trouble free Guzzi (s)miles.

Splendid job.The tacho and speedo look great but I'm not keen on the mounting plate with additional gauges. What / who is 'nosail' ?

That's cleared that up then!

AP8104192 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16766http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16766 http://www.motoguzziclub.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16485&KW=fuel+fitting I have also found these made by pfe fittings in oz but yet to buy one to try:

Here are the leads required to connect as shown in a post last year:

If you have a welder a bead on the remaining outer race will heat it sufficiently and it will virtually drop out or a dremel type tool , carefully cut aslot in the race and it should come out..

The diagnostic connector is 3 pin. The 4 pin connector is for the o2 sensor (on the exhaust collector/xover) If your bike should have an o2 sensor fitted and hasn't this could explain its poor running. My 2004 Rosso Corsa has the 4 pin connector with nothing attached but is not fitted with an o2 sensor. It still has the original collector/xover. The 3 pin diagnostic plug is located right by the 4 pin plug, mine has a dust cap over the end and if I remember correctly has a black, red and blue wires running to it. The connectors are amp superseal and readily available.

They guarantee them for life (so long as they stay in business ) even with motorcycle use, you can't ask much more than that. Nice find Roy

I like the look and price of those, closest match to the original that I have seen. I assume that they are weatherproof?

All good info look forward to hearing more.

There should be plenty of broken speedometers kicking around, just a matter of posting in the right places (wildguzzi guzzitech and waiting) It is then being able to remove and refit the bezel as they an't really designed to come apart ( may be easier to cut and glue the plastic shell than unfold the bezel). If you do a google search there are 80mm bezels and glasses avalable but not iti specific and I cannot find one in the brushed silver effect. There is one here but $$$ : http://www.hmb-guzzi.de/shop/product_info.php?language=en&info=p7269_drehzahlmesser-v11-sport-ab-2002.html& Another guzzi breakers to try: http://www.gutsibits.co.uk New from stein dinse:: 01767260 TACHIMETRO CONTAGIRI Drehzahlmesser V11 287,29 € * Delay possible Show Order

I found a source online through a Wild Guzzi post.Seems like I might not be able to get a key cut from the helmet lock because the multi-function keys such as ours have different cuts for different functions.Ignition,helmet,seat lock.Havent proven this or been told by a locksmith that this is true but from a Google search from various MC sites of people who have ZADI keys and lost them, that was the theory.Have a couple of emails to locksmiths out asking that question and one of them sells the blanks,so he would probably know. Has anyone here HAD a key made from one of the other cylinders? Also seems from the search that Triumph who uses ZADI locks for some of their bikes, can have a key made from Vin # as they saved that info in a data base,don't know if Guzzi did that. I doubt that there will be a problem. Far too complicated and expensive to have different cuts for different functions (there are no fewer pins in the seat lock than the other locks). For the price of having a key cut to fit the seat lock I would try it. The only time I would see a problem is if an odd barrel had been fitted in the past, in which case you would already know about it having 2 keys. It is possible for someone with the right skills,time and patience to cut a key from a blank with the barrel in situ. It is actually a competitive sport. There is a special zaldi key to remove the barrels without dismantling the lock. Most places I have found charge £40 for this key, I have however found a cheaper source and I'm also experimenting modifiying a suitable blank to remove the barrel. It works by being a little longer than the standard key working on the far retaining pin. I will let you know if I succeed. .You can even have keys cut from a photograph of the key. So dont leave them on display where a potential thief could take a snap of them. In the meantime I would just get a key cut to seat lock barrel

Yes http://www.mrlock.com/ZA9P1.html

Nice one, take the complete lock with you. Here's a list of suitable blanks Mfg. Part No.: ZA-9.P1 Blank no: Ilco X270 Silca ZD24RDP ZD23RBP JMA ZA-9.P1

The easiest lock to remove on my bike is the seat lock just below the right hand side panel (this is also the place where i usually lose my keys) . Mine is held on by 2 allen bolts and can be removed in 2 minutes. the barrel is then fairly simple to remove from the lock by removing a single screw, metal plate, plastic cable retainer and spring. you then remove the barrel by pressing in the sprung pin on the bottom of the barrel and the barrel will push out.. A decent locksmith should then be able to cut a key to fit. To refit it is easier to put the plastic cable retainer and spring in position first then replace the barrel.

The cans on the burgundy model do have a purple tinge and not as noticeable in real life as in your photo. My wife is 5ft5 and rides my V11 fine and Harry is shorter still and manages fine.

Shocking!

Daytona: Daytona RS: