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Everything posted by HaydnR
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Very good. I won't ask how you came across that video.
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You can get adapter leads: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OBD2-Diagnostic-Cable-Adapter-f-Fiat-Alfa-Romeo-Lanica-/380320514802?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item588cde82f2#ht_3655wt_989 If you connect wrong or short circuit with individual clip leads you will toast your ecu. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16676&st=0&p=179005&hl=ducatidiag&fromsearch=1entry179005 http://a7.idata.over-blog.com/3/94/81/11/archives/0/6a0128779b488c970c0120a92b6219970b-800wi
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Sorted. Proof of pudding soon.
HaydnR replied to belfastguzzi's topic in Special place for banter and conversation
Excellent news! -
Guzzi part no: 01717430 any guzzi parts suppliers should have them. But not at this price: Champion - PRO0U- Red http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/champion-pro0u-red.html
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Sorted. Proof of pudding soon.
HaydnR replied to belfastguzzi's topic in Special place for banter and conversation
Quick, sell it! -
part no's 01517700 02517700 not cheap! Google guzzi then part no.
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putting in a threaded brass fitting would be a nice solution.
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I have sent BFG a fitting from a spare pump that I had. The fitting is held in by the tanged split washer which bites into the sides of the orifice. I've emailed the manufacturers of the fitting and of he pump to see if spares are available. I found another picture of he aprilia pegasso pump,he fittings do look similar.
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Dave I'm not sure but this looks like the part that you need: 18. Coupling for Fuel pump http://www.speedaway.co.uk/part/6463/2611-6463-ap8104192-coupling/per_page/12 part no. AP8104192
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I'm sorry to read of your troubles BFG. I've seen bikes written off with far less damage.
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The owners manual states: "The torque of the nut «A» is 12 Kgm" 12 kilogram meter = 117 newton meter = 86 pound foot
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Rear Wheel Bearing Failure / Centerstand Questions
HaydnR replied to rebelpacket's topic in Technical Topics
Where? Uploaded with ImageShack.us You are right about the wrong information in the workshop manual the info that I quoted is from the 2004 Owners manual image page 146 instruction page 148 (2001 manual p88/90, 2002 manual p136/138) -
Rear Wheel Bearing Failure / Centerstand Questions
HaydnR replied to rebelpacket's topic in Technical Topics
The owners manual states: "The torque of the nut «A» is 12 Kgm" 12 kilogram meter = 117 newton meter = 86 pound foot -
Welcome to the world of V11. Another in fife, I may see you around. If you dont have them already here are some links to manuals: owners manual workshop manual workshop manual update parts manual
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Great pictures!
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I think it may be in the design of these spindles to squish if the pinch bolts are overtightened as a cheaper option to replace the spindle rather than the fork bottom. The shape really needs re-forming rather than shaping,by removing material you are making the spindle weaker,I'm not an engineer but would think that this could be done by clamping in a split aluminium block bored to the correct diameter. I think it would be better to source a replacement. You may find a used item at somewhere like Reboot. Or a new replacement par no. GU01614180 (would need to confirm correct one)listed at stein dinse 35 euro but not in stock:
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So its the area that should be within the bottom of the fork leg that has distorted, that would occur due to over tightening of the pinch bolts. I take it that part has oval'd too.
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Google ohlins pinch bolts and you will get lots of results on Aprilia and Duc forums with woes of over tightened bolts cracking the fork lowers resulting in big money to replace.
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The pinch bolt torque is on the tech drawings of the forks in the workshop manual. The spindle nut,I would say would be at the lower end of the specified value due to it being hollow, I couldn't find any different values for the different spec of spindle.
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" I looked at the wider part and it appeared to be ever so slightly bulging out, while its outside seem to be smaller as if it tapered off very slightly " a photo would help. If you mean that the edge towards the centre of the length of the spindle I would guess that the spindle has been overtightened, mushrooming the spacing part not contained within the bottom of the fork. Also check that the spacer on the opposite has not been deformed. I would fit the spindle back in place without the wheel if the spindle no longer slides into the bottom of the fork leg with ease I would suggest a new spindle is needed. Torque values Front wheel spindle 90-100 nm /66-74 ft lbs Fork pinch bolts 10.4 nm / 7.5 ft lbs , which is bugger all, just a nip up with a standard allen key
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Glad you got it sorted.
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I think that one of the main reasons why people have problems doing this is that they are trying to do it whist there is still pressure in the hose which will lock the fitting in place. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SYAS5xsUlo&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iU3jKjwBuQA Be very careful the angled spigot (red) will break if forced and they cannot be replaced without the fuel pump at 100's of pounds. This is on my V11 but other Guzzi models the procedure would be the same. It is preferable to have a near empty tank because of the weight. I have removed the bolt holding the rear of the tank and placed a block of wood under the tank to give easier access to the petrol pump fittings. Have an old rag to hand as even once de-pressurized there will still be some fuel left in the hose and pump 1. De-pressurize the fuel system by disconnecting the wire to the pump and then try and start the bike. (if you leave the hose under pressure you will get an unpleasant shower). 2. Hold the the red fitting in one hand and with the other hand first push the coupling together, then with index finger and thumb pull the outer ring back(towards the hose) and then with a gentle wiggling action pull the couplings apart
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Very good point. It was sitting on that lip part. There was enough gunk in the area to do that. How would I go about un-clogging a small tube like that? Not quite sure how to go about that. Compressed air, (duster on air line,blow through a spare pieceof tube)
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Is it possible that with the fitting of your camera mount(?) that the fuel cap has been fitted slightly out of alignment causing the seal to the cap vent to block when closed. I just tried it out on mine by blocking the vent hole with a piece of latex and run the bike for a minute, and even in the cold scottish climate and a near on empty fuel tank slight pressure had begun to build when I opened the cap.