greenmonster

Btw, no MyECU activity here? I`s all over at http://cajinnovations.com/yabb0/YaBB.pl or what? I do think there`s alot of MyECU users still here, or? But everybody`s just happy w their MyECUs, or?

FYI: New chip f MyP8 mentioned here http://cajinnovations.com/yabb0/YaBB.pl?num=1258118188/15#15 & http://cajinnovations.com/yabb0/YaBB.pl?num=1277072713 does improve starting. Free upgrade!

That`s real handy. I was mixing up gadgets earlier (5-6 beers might have contributed). I meant that a LM-1 w RPM kit http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php & a LC-1 you can log & alter as you`ve done. But that`s no news, I guess.... Seems real practical, though, w that average function you mentioned. Borrowed this setup, gonna give it a try.

So this is the average Lambda value of each cell fr 45 min ride? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=9730 I believe the LC-1 & Logworks/Innovate software can do that, too. Log w LC-1, download to PC & open w Logworks/Innovate.

After I got the accurate parts in my starter mechanism, I`ve had no kickbacks & good starts. Luhbos advice also helped. Just in case someone searches f answers regarding Duc 2V starts.

, many thx f sharing & effort! When my bike is starting (close now) , Logworks logging will be the next subject. My main problem is, what to do w all the data....

Thx f your effort, raz!

I'm visiting Gelleråsen for Classic Racing this weekend (how about you? Your Ducati club will be there!) and I'll test this on that trip. Been having almost a summer vacation like school kids, 7 weeks at my countryside cottage so really have to start working now. Although I know we have our Annual meeting & Club championship race Sunday...

IRL on the road readings on the Optimiser? W 150mV TPS base setting as a starting point? RPM breakpoints only that is, not TPS? Just tryin to follow your thoughts...

So, bike really feels good now, even reached the state where I have to add fuel. Fuel ec now just over 0,60L/10km`s, what`s the secret f better economy, any tips & tricks? What ec do you have w MyECU?

Think I`ll stick w the factory sealing, no silicone etc, thx. My box is like yours, lubho.

Thx f sharing, punch! And now, something completely different: What type of sealant is best for waterproofing the case? I have a P7/8 case and I guess I need to open after sealing it since I have no custom fittings f connections. From factory there hardly seems to be any so how anal do you have to be? Loctite/Plastic Padding preferred as easiest to find. I have thoroughly laquered the PCB.

Read a book today and learned something, maybe. My thought: Why do some ign maps have 1 or 2 rows between start & idle, like 2 between 600 & 1100RPM? Book said if/when idle is weak/dropping, if the row below ideal idle RPM has higher ign than idle row, it helps keeping idle steady if manifold pressure or if A/F is weak at idle etc, acc to book. True or false? EDIT: Tried 217 Ign Adv at top 4 TPS & from 5500RPM, throttle response seems killer when I just started. Cheers, mates, a little drunk on my birthday.

Yep, thx, not touching Optimiser while driving. When WOT f 10 secs, then just no throttle f 5-10 s, and then a little cruising throttle: How low Inj dur can you set in 6-9k RPM, les than 500 TPS without hiccups/hesitation, like 1,5 or what? You guys who log: Tested w A/F meter & Optimiser to see TPS, hard to drive & check data I`ve realized. But logging, don`t you get to much info to handle? Do you do very short runs or what?

Great, thx, forgot the Optimiser´s possibilities, I`m gonna borrow one again.

Anyone tried any Voltmeter gadget on ECU to check TPS degrees while driving? Or is it a feature in Optimiser? AF meter f sure is good but would be nice to know more exact at what degree TPS I`m looking at. Something simple +/- from pin 11 & 18 (IIRC) on ECU wouldn`t be too hard. (& start is very good and subtracting & subtracting fuel now... ) Where are the Air T & Oil T sensors located on a V11? Pics? Just courious f comparison & eventual problems w other models & brands. My Air T is at the back wall of my airbox, probably OK when riding normally but f city rush hour?

First day of riding w a HalMeter AF30, 90% of the time 12.8-13.2 my guessings so far quite good or AFmeter is inaccurate...

So, anyone w new developments, lads? I just expirienced luhbos "less is more", oh so true again.... Just testing 5% less fuel 4500-9k RPM, 06-12 TPS, acc real good. My liquidcooled bike definately needs lees of regarding starting (prime), Air t corrections, Oil T choking etc. Definitely less tha a V11 f e! (& yes, starting works perfect! ) And you, raz, any ign timing experiences to tell us? I`ll remenber you, luhbo, wanted to try somthing this spring, also timing adv or what? Anyone else chiming in? Just courious.

A small step f mankind but a big f me, at least it feels like it after some weeks hard struggle.... Yep, starts real good now. Giving the long answer, maybe someone will learn fr it...: 1. Fresh items in starter mechanism. 2. Diminishing gap ign sensor 0.30mm, about 0.45 now, +/- 0.10. 3. Battery fully charged, plug spark checked-perfect. 4. TDC=1, Priming set to 1 & throttle cable turned back a lot to avoid kickbacks etc. 5. Tried cranking (NO THROTTLE), only goal good turning over w/o kickbacks. It does so. 6. Was about to do TPS base setting basics allover, but thought "I`ll just try basic V11 Priming & see what happends." Almost start. 7. Full idle lever-starts real good, no kickbacks either! 8. Some mapping TDC=0, 600 RPM & 6 degrees quite good. 9. After a bit fiddling w throttle cable, start is very good & also idle. Hard to say if TDC=1 or 0 w 6 degrees is best. 2nd &3rd RPM breaks are 1200 & 1500, 10 degrees first 6 rows TPS in both seems very good & stable. Prime f 10-20-25-30 degrees C is 12-10-8-7. Temp C is +4.1 - +1,9 - 0 - 0. Inj adv is 517 overall. Idles at about 160 in Ecucontroller. Maybe too high by the book, but works. Starts w/o any problems, again & again! Didn`t know that could feel like a medium good private moment w yourself.... My conclusion: Good starter mechanism & battery obviously good but no major factor. Less fuel w starting good but maybe not significant. Ign sensor gap only radical thing done so probably major factor. And, NO THROTTLE at all while starting!! My frustration got me fiddling w that, screwing up pressure. I feel that is a major factor. Many Thanks f all help! Edit 22/5: 100 km ride. Starts fine cold/hot, even cold w lights on. Life is good again.

No, but I will cause I have to open alternator cover soon.

Good news! And valuable tips f us searching f the same goal, thx! Edit: Changed my first RPM break too, fr 600 to 800. Felt it helped abit. Stupid question but to b sure: That is the same value you get on the slider for TPS in Ecucontrol?

My ecu has been tested by you, Cliff, & you made additional wiring from what looks like Q5 to big chip. Wiring is secured w silicon and D17 is under that so no measuring possible. Or have is mislocated D17? Only pic I have of PCB: http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/pics/MyP8MkIII_PCB.png Would be easier if it wasn`t reversed. Test today, w fully charged batt acc to C-tec. Took a ride. Starts w no kickbacks, hot or cold. Differences before/after kickbacks: 1. Prime 10-20-25-30C: 18-14-10-9/12-10-10-9mS. 2. Old battery did turn over engine w/o problems w no plugcaps/Now new, fully charged battery. 3. Full idle lever which gave before 1400/Now 1800 RPM right after start when cold. 4. RPM break 1: 600/800. I cannot say what definitely fixed my problem, my guess is as good as you so please have a go! But think I`ll check my ignition to try and see what I have in reality, no noticeable difference between 0 & 14 degrees when starting is too strange.

Thx, will check that, will probably check my starter elements again soon.... Progress, several starts w/o kickbacks! New battery, charged thoroughly w C-tec to full juice. No significant difference. Tried mapping, ended up w this: TDCWhileCranking=1, Priming 10-20-25-30C > 12-1010-9mS (thx luhbo & punch!). Seemed good, frustrating that different setting didn`t alter starts significantly. Altered idle lever so it has 17-1800 RPM when started, idle lever on full. Together w juust a little throttle, almost kickback free start. Volt meter on battery while starting, 3 starts was 10.80-10.56-10.80V while cranking. Added small car battery charger, 5,5Ah. Kickback free start several times in a row! Measured V when starting w car charger: over 11V. Finally some results, put C-tec back on f charging to full. A few , fully charged and several starts again w/o kickbacks! So, I obviously need very good juice when starting. All electric connections are checked, fuses, earth etc. My battery will not always be perfectly charged so what do I do? Buy a Odyssey battery w more cranking juice or can I alter something in MyECU?

Also find that strange, unfortunately I don`t have a timing light. No separate log equipment, would the log file from Ecucontrol be useful? Starter is Nippon-Denso, cleaned & w fresh brushes. Will check juice when starting, good idea. Jump start real easy. Kickbacks hot or cold. What value should I expect when measuring? Should I do it when attempting to start? Disconnected clock this spring. Crank speed/inertia is the reason I`ve asked if the MyECU had Revolutions w/o firing at starting as option. A rev or two w/o ignition would help starting. Thx f 907 story, pasotibbs, how are your kickback problem now?