lemppari

Yet another epic failure! Back to square one it is, dismantling everything. I may be on to the culprit, the new clutch friction discs from Stein-Dinse are substantially thicker than the originals. What if the center button is already so deep in, that there is not enough reach in the slave cyl piston......Well, When going gets tough, etc....STRÖMSÖ ! (At least, this really is living up to it's name, utter and complete mystery.) Sent from my RM-821_eu_finland_207 using Tapatalk

All connected but couldn't pump the fluid in the system, so I'll go and buy a syringe and fill it via the bleeder. It would make a nice change if something went right as planned the first time...... Sent from my RM-821_eu_finland_207 using Tapatalk

Slave cyl installed and while I'm waiting for the new master cyl, back in place goes the engine. Sent from my RM-821_eu_finland_207 using Tapatalk

I happen to have an extra slave cyl, so I'll just as well change that too while I'm at it and it comes with a hose so that'll change as well. Not much left to renew, though. New clutch, new clutch springs, new gearbox frontside pinion, new slave cylinder and hose and most probably a new master cylinder. If it don't f.....ng deliver this time, I'll paint it light green and push it to the sea.

I managed to loosen the slave cylinder from between the tranny and the trellis subframe and could test the pushrod system, all working fine. As far as I can deduct, it must be the master cylinder that's malfunctioning. Remaining problem is wether I'm capable of doing the repair myself with a repair kit, or am I compelled to buy a new one. PS12 units don't really grow in trees in Europe, so it might be quicker to get a repair kit, both Ducs and KTMs have them.

Back to original topic, stiff, mushroomy movement in clutch lever, no movement in clutch pushrod. What gives? Sent from my RM-821_eu_finland_207 using Tapatalk

Ducati, KTM big twins, Suzuki TL-1000 etc. just To name a few. Longitudal crank would be MG, Honda Pan European, CX 500 and so on. Sent from my RM-821_eu_finland_207 using Tapatalk

Mine has had the twin disc conversion done by the previous owner, so that saved me from doing that job. No problems with alignment, either. So, today it was engine off, clutch disassembled and put together again. No problem there, BUT..... I pulled the clutch lever when the engine was off and it was stiff and there was absolutely no movement in the push rod! I had bled the system yesterday and while doing that the lever felt normal. How I am happy that the slave cylinder is so easily accessible in V11! Well, a couple of bolts off and out shall the tranny come. Or it might just be feasible to wriggle off the slave cylinder in situ, although the trellis subframe between the pork chops is nicely put just in the way! I am toying with the idea of converting to a V-twin with transverse crankshaft, clutch nicely visible on the side and chain drive!!

The best way for A Real Man to spend May Day is to take off the engine of a V11 and do the clutch again. Is there any way to test wether it disengages properly other than with the engine in its' proper place?

Finally got the bike together after doing the clutch twice!!! and was about to take a test ride. Clutch lever in, first gear in-BIG JOLT-KILL SWITCH! After a couple of further futile attempts, I just had to give up. The f.......ing clutch won't disengage, allthough pulling the lever quietenes the dry clutch racket. Should not be a clutch spring out of its' seating, because that was why I had to do the whole thing twice. Assembling the clutch in vertical position was a bit troublesome, but in the end I got the springs properly seated holding the pressure plate manually and looking thru the central hole and using a tool to move individual springs to place. There's a new gearbox input pinion, but I didn't change the pushrod which could have worked allright with the worn clutch plates but be a tad short with the new plates. Shouldn't try to be economical in such places..... The lever movement is shortish with a long slack first and the movement stops 8-10 mils before the handle, so it is worth checking the master cylinder first and then bleed the unit. Still does not explain why the clutch is so stiff compared to how it used to be, which I attributed to the new springs at first. It may well be that I have to to it all over again, only this time I'll just drop the engine. Far easier and far quicker than going in from the rear. If you ever do a clutch repair, do it that way. Saves your nerves, does it!!!

Opening the back cover of the gearbox I stumbled on a broken clutch pressure bearing and simultaniously saw one of the steel rolls disappear through the big ball bearing right inside the gearbox. Bugger! I'm now hoping I can find it through the side cover which gets a new sealant as a by-product even though it didn't leak. As if that wasn't enough, one of the gearshaft collar nuts was distingtly loose, having no lockplate under it.......

At looooong last I got the proper center bolt to my DIY clutch press and alignment tool and assembly was easy enough, so it's re-sealing the tranny, changing the center pinion and whatever branch-offs that follow!

The center of the second friction plate was completely ripped off, so no wonder it was noisy and did not disengage properly. I've gotten the new parts from Stein+Dinse, so I can put the clutch together again. Meanwhile the project is expanding as they always tend to do. The gearbox has been perspiring a bit and as I have it on the table anyway, I tried to find a source for the small leak. Well, the backside was thinly smeared all over without any clear accumulation probably because of airflow while riding. When resting on sidestand after a ride, there was often a droplet under the bottom bolt and there was also a small amount of oil around the output shaft. So the wisest thing is to take out the back cover(s) and renew sealants and seals. Workshop manual, here I come!

And the shopping turns out to be complicated. I ordered a complete clutch kit from S+D and the tool required for the center pinion. The guy on the phone insisted that the kit won't fit V11 and suggested I'd find the right parts from their model specific on-line parts cataloque. Now where did he think I got the kit number in the first place? Ok, ok, I know the center wheel IS different and would have thought it being something that could've been changed in the kit, but then he said that the tightening tool I also ordered won't fit. How is that possible when the center nut of both the 5-speed and 6-speed boxes have exactly the same spare part number and therefore should be able to be worked with the same tool? There simply has to be some mystical higher force opposing my clutch project! Not only has the dismantling been tiresome, but now even getting new parts is proving to be well-nigh impossible. By the way, Piaggio ended the contract of Guzzi's finnish import company which is now shut down so no way can I get parts neede from them, either..........

IKEA worked just fine. I only raised the spine frame's rear end. No wonder the clutch didn't work:https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/p480x480/547239_10201864969374228_826143733_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1236600_10201864951853790_665596534_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1234513_10201865858956467_517224902_n.jpg Time to go shopping.

This would have been also used to hoist the boilers of the Titanic to place.

I'm actually leaning towards Ye Olde Trad Finnish Material, wood. Two 2-by-4 A-frames and a beam between them and a winchable loading strap.

Going in from the rear end has turned out to be slow and complicated. I should have done it the orthodox way, the job would have been done already. On top of everything the frame has to be jacked up some 10 centimeters anyway to get enough clearance backwards for the gearbox, so I have to conjur some sort of tackle to do it. As I have no hook or other fixing point in the garage ceiling, it really is getting exciting. Any other means to lift a frame?

The decision to dismantle the bike was amply amplified when riding the bike to my garage. One could hear the dry clutch noise, normally audible when pulling the clutch, even at idle without touching the lever! I decided to take the long way, i.e. dismantle the rear end and am still struggling. It does take a lot more effort and time than simply dropping the engine, what with the strengthening struts between the kidneys and tranny, but I'm getting there.

I bled the fluid first thing, but that didn't change things. There's a very slight leak, more like breathing of oil at the back of the gearbox but that smells like tranny oil, so it is probably the "standard" leak many have reported.

Any or all of those is possible, so onward to dismantling the engine!

The clutch in my RM started acting weird the other day. It functions properly when cold but won't disengage wholly when warm/hot. Hoping for a minor glitch, I flushed the fluid but no avail. When warm, you can feel the bike lurchin sllightly forward when putting it to first gear standing still. Likewise when already rolling on first gear clutch pulled one can feel the bike surging when throttling. Downshifting 3-2-1 is best done with a mid-throttle. What the heck is happening down there? I always thought that when clutches wear, they rather start slipping than gripping. Well, whatever it is, it's better to pull the engine out and have a look before it gets seriously nasty!

I had eventually been thinking along those lines, too. So let's keep that as a basic battleplan. Pity that we will miss the Assen TT by a week, but buying needless Moto Guzzi paraphenalia from TLM hopefully amply replaces the event! We'll be behind your corner next Sunday or Monday. You have a mobile where I can call?

We mostly like to ride smaller roads, enjoy the scenery and visit quaint old towns and villages and we carry our canvas cabin with us. I know there really is a helluva lot to see in the Netherlands and it is a hard job to narrow down what one wants to see. What I've thought about beforehand is rides along canals and maybe going to see the 1:1 copy of the wooden Eastindiaman they've built, perhaps maybe see Delft etc. Then again, Delft seems to be amidst a very dense net of motorways and unavoidably, dense traffic. On the other hand, Maastricht could be an alternative and frankly I'd much more like to ride through the Ardennes to Northern France than through Flanders coast. Our goal this season is Normandy and Bretagne. I still have a week to ponder about this, our ferry from Finland lands in Travemünde saturday evening next week. In the mean time, the wife's Nevada still needs some tlc and both bikes deserve some pints of new oil.

Me and the missus have been planning to ride through the Netherland from north to south in two weeks time. Any suggestions about a nice route without too many km's on motorways? Nice places to visit aside from the highly obligatory TLM?