lemppari

Magical mystery tour continues...Rode to my garage and descended upon the bike armed with a multimeter. Ignition off, the reading frm battery was 12.8 volts, at idle 13.7ish, at 3000 revs and up 14.2, steady. The reading from the black cable going to the reg same 12.8 V. After rigging the auxiliary ground cable from reg cover to frame the reading from idle onwards was a constant 13.9 volts!? And the generator warning light disappeared altogether until after a test ride when switching off and on again. Is the white cable besides the black one for the gen light? I think I'm getting the odd things happening to the light every time I'm fiddling with the black and white connector and furthermore it gets it's share of air flow at speed. That is when the light starts flickering, anyway. It sure is not fun being electrically impaired.....

Come to think of it, why not start with the simple alternative before going to the complex ones. I'll change the battery first, it is coming of age on a RM anyway!

Been having strange momentary dim glows awhile when riding. Trying different gears at same speed didn,t have any effect on the phenomena. The charge light comes on for a few seconds and then shuts off. I rode 850 km's yesterday and didn't get stranded, so I suspect there's nothing fundamentally wrong! When the engine is running stationary I've measured 14 volts at 3000, but as I don't have a voltmeter connected, I can't tell what is happening up in speed. I will however connect an extra ground to the regulator cover as described here elsewhere,but could this be just false ground in the charge light circuit? Every now and then, when i switch the ignition on, there's no charge light but after the engine has run a few seconds, shutting off and switching on again, there it is. Seems it get worse when riding through a rain shower and the light is much brighter then. I will also take the tank off and check all connnections more thoroughly. I know that I'm the antithesis of an electrics wizard but I WILL NOT CAVE IN! Any suggestions apart from letting the local Guzzi repair shop do it?

If you've recently been tinkering then perhaps something wasn't done up sufficiently. You should revisit those things and check again. Hi symptoms are due to the engine running lean. Number of reasons: - leaks in the TB rubbers. This can sometimes be detected by spraying WD40 around the TB rubbers, the engine idle will increase slightly. But pls note that the leakage that will affect idling is often so small this won't show anything. Make sure you you check the rubber BOTH sides of the TB. The ones to the air filter can degrade badly before they affect anything but when they do they will produice this symptom. The ones beyween TB and cylinder are absolutely critical and a tiny leak will give the symptoms you describe - TPS set slightly low, try 175mV at true idle ie throttle stop screw wound completely out - throttle body spindle seal leak. Difficult to fix because it's hard to buy the spare seals but easily corrected with a Power Commander richening the mixture in the bottom third of the TB opening range (I'm doing this). Alternatively, the bodgers route is to set the true idle TPS value to say 200mV which will richen things up right through the whole range I suggest you try these out in this order. I guess it runs OK from cold and gets worse as it warms up ie as the mixture leans out? Please note it's not unusual for the TPS position to shift if you have not tightened up the retaining screws tightly. Hope this helps Guzz Thanks! Already checked for leaks and more than a few connectors and the relay bridge today. Then started the engine and voilá! With the choke on it runs perfectly, dying out completely when the choke is off. Definitely running lean and yes, the TPS seems to have wound itself slowly to the end of the adjustment slots. Only myself to blame, I must have left the torxes a bit loose when adjusting the TPS a few weeks ago Henri The RM purrs like a cat after readjusting the TPS. One could say that the mixture was a bit lean, 160 mV precicely. On idle with the rod connected! Basic mechanics, really, one should tighten the screws properly.... Henri

If you've recently been tinkering then perhaps something wasn't done up sufficiently. You should revisit those things and check again. Hi symptoms are due to the engine running lean. Number of reasons: - leaks in the TB rubbers. This can sometimes be detected by spraying WD40 around the TB rubbers, the engine idle will increase slightly. But pls note that the leakage that will affect idling is often so small this won't show anything. Make sure you you check the rubber BOTH sides of the TB. The ones to the air filter can degrade badly before they affect anything but when they do they will produice this symptom. The ones beyween TB and cylinder are absolutely critical and a tiny leak will give the symptoms you describe - TPS set slightly low, try 175mV at true idle ie throttle stop screw wound completely out - throttle body spindle seal leak. Difficult to fix because it's hard to buy the spare seals but easily corrected with a Power Commander richening the mixture in the bottom third of the TB opening range (I'm doing this). Alternatively, the bodgers route is to set the true idle TPS value to say 200mV which will richen things up right through the whole range I suggest you try these out in this order. I guess it runs OK from cold and gets worse as it warms up ie as the mixture leans out? Please note it's not unusual for the TPS position to shift if you have not tightened up the retaining screws tightly. Hope this helps Guzz Thanks! Already checked for leaks and more than a few connectors and the relay bridge today. Then started the engine and voilá! With the choke on it runs perfectly, dying out completely when the choke is off. Definitely running lean and yes, the TPS seems to have wound itself slowly to the end of the adjustment slots. Only myself to blame, I must have left the torxes a bit loose when adjusting the TPS a few weeks ago Henri

Riding home from work, the RM started coughing at lower revs but accelled without a hitch. When I stopped at a traffic light, I noticed that the idle undulated like an old diesel truck. With a bit of choke applied, the engine runs evenly at 1600. Without the choke, opening the choke slowly results in sputtering at 1300-1600 rpm. Taking off the spark plug caps one at a time briefly showed that both cylinders get fuel and spark, the idle was static at 900 rpm. WTF is going on?? The bike stood out on its' side stand in rain today, so could this have something to do with the TPS?? Valve clearances were checked 2 weeks ago, as was the TPS voltage and TB balance. Come to think of it, as I rode the bike 2 days ago the last time, I noticed it ran a little rougher but I attributed that to significally colder weather, the temperature dropping 20 deg centigrade from the previous week! As my LM I is also drydocked, I'm confined to pedalling so PLEASE somebody, where do I start looking?????

That was just what I suspected. The thingy probably drenches the spark as I have set the TPS a bit high to 532 mV at idle and looking at the chart values, the PC gave substancially bigger squirts at between 4-4500 rpm. I have been trying various maps from the PC site and from this forum, but the wisest thing is to insert a zero map and do a dyno ride, after which one knows exactly what needs to be altered, if anything. As things are now, I get a crispy throttle response and enough power from the stock ECU too, only experiencing the slight drop at around 3-3200. Then again, that's what the gearbox is for....

After two test rides, the thingy got disconnected altogether and I'm continuing with the Tuneboy theme. As I've written in another thread, I had some mysterious cut-outs previously. Then I took the PC III off and rerouted it's cables and sat it on the tooltray trying to eliminate any pressure on cables and connectors. I was riding to work on a curvy B-road today that's nice and bendy, and in one particular righthander I leant out going about 110 kmh, the engine doing 4100-4200. At the apex I slammed the throttle wide open and had a total injection cut-out. NOT a nice thing to happen on a narrow road when you're hangin' out with all you got. After that I began testing and yes, the engine would cut almost every time when opening the throttle fully, between 4250 and 4750. So the PC actually works as a decelerator pump and I believe that's what brakes are for! In the afternoon I took the same road back with the PC disconnected and had heaps of fun, no cut-outs but the initial hesitation at little over 3000 which was the reason for purchase of the Thingy in the first place. I can live with that. Litterally.

Yep, that was explaining it in plain English. I should try to find a 'Fuel Injection Control for Dummies' book, perhaps! Well, the rest is good old trial and error testing.

Says Manual: 'The number of engine revolutions during which fuel is added.' According to the Manual, some use 15, others 20 and I can decide which.....In plain English please, what do they mean by number of revolutions etc. That cannot be a specific RPM, neither a range where within the accel pump feature would function. Once again I feel I'm dumm or downright stupid, but I just can't get it. Somebody please explain, I'm beggin'ya!

OK, after disconnecting the PC III the engine has purred as flawlessly as it ever could before. No cutoffs, only problem being the flat spots which caused me to try the PC III in the first place! Next step is connecting the PC again but this time with the box in the tool tray instead of it being in the small cutout in the rear, hence the saddle probably pressing the wire harness.

As I mentioned, the engine ran normally the day before and has never had such tantrums until installing the PC. Another possible cause that I've been pondering, would be that something is pressing the PC wire harness, possibly the saddle under my weight under hard acceleration.

Ended up with a PC III after all. I connected it and took the RM for a testride and stumbled into a very strange behaviour. If I rolled the throttle wide open in first or second gear from 2K, the engine might cut off completely, only to start again when I rolled off the throttle. No such behaviour when on bigger gears, though. Nothing like that yesterday when still riding with the original ECU and stock map. The bike has open Mistrals, stock x-over and modified airbox with the original filter. The TPS is adjusted at 520 mV and the valves 0.15 intake 0.2 exhaust. I've also been wondering about whether the Mistrals mentioned in the PC III map lists of the manifacturer are open or the more muffled ones? Then there's the Acceleration Pump Enable function. Does it give one same kind of extra grunt that one gets with Dell'Ortos, or does it only enable a tuning centre to add such function? As it is, I'm a bit afraid of riding the bike with the PC connected.

Thanks Monkey! And to the nearest(only) bearing shop in my little town I go, come Monday. And to a tool shop because I've had that bearing puller in my shopping list for so long now...

After changing the rear tire, I noticed that the rear end assembly has a lateral slack of several degrees i.e. it's possible to wind it a few degrees horizontally when fully tightened. So what I'm actually wondering about is the ring, part no #31. Is it flexible, allowing horizontal turning, or am I justifiably terrified?

I used to ride the LM I on Michelins and never had any issues with tyre noise. Then again, with open intakes and Competitione pipes, who would? Furthermore, the 170 profile of V11 is the first ever rear tire wider than 130 that I've had, so that might also explain the greater noise...

That has allready been rolling in the front. It bettered the behaviour of the front no end otherwise but still wears conical, as has been the case with every front tyre so far. There's several mm of pattern left, but the tyre feels like a cogwheel!

Doing an after season oil change, the engine warm-up was done by hoisting the back end up and running through gears up to 90-100 kph. The rear end remained silent, apart from normal gear noise. The drive shaft joints ditto. Couldn't entice a whail even under load with the rear brake. I can't think of anything else than tire noise as the cause, but never before have I heard such a yodle from a motorcycle tire. A big truck, yes, but then there's a difference in load also. THAT Michelin Pilot Power will definitely be the last of it's kind under my bike! On the positive side, there are no extra costs involved, one has to change tires from time to time anyway.

Just come home after a lengthy testride. One still hears the sound, but no louder than the gearbox. Probably down to Guzzichondria that I'm so sensitive to that particular pitch, anyway. Changing back to a proper mineral oil really made a difference. Maybe next time I'll put in some 90/145. That's seriously thick goo!

I have had some trouble the last days with the RM. Every now and then the pump won't prime when switching on. Luckily I knew right away where to look and after cleaning the relay contacts I've had no problems! So it pays to read these pages!

OK, I'm starting from the most obvious and change back to mineral oil for the end transmission, while the singing started AFTER I put in a fully synth hypoid oil. Then a lengthy test ride with a keen ear!

It's very easy to raise the idle, see the tread on TPS setting under the FAQ forum. If you can do your valves, you can do this. Balancing is a bit trickier but the FAQ tells you how, heres a picture of the tool I made. Use engine oil, if it accidentally gets sucked in no harm done. I made the connection to throttle body with 2 x 6 mm grease nipples, grind the back a little to remove the spring and ball. Make the final connection to the nipple with rubber hose, plastic gets soft and falls off when hot. Don't expect to get the two columns closer than about 150 mm from idle to 3000 revs. Have fun Roy I bought and brought the Rosso Mandello from Germany, too. The first year under yours truly it used to sneeze quite offten, to the extent that it spat out either of the TB:s. After readjusting the valves to 0.2 both intake and exhaust, there's been no backfire or sneeze. Readjusting the TPS can have had some influence, too while it had been adjusted to 420 mV, all rods etc. disconnected! No wonder the plugs where coal black.

My thoughts also, either that or the big bearing inside, though that one is in constant oilbath and shouldn't let go easily. Or if the ignorant tyre guy tightened the rear axle nut to umphteen kilo's, could it pack the big bearing too tight also?

After changing the rear wheel bearings, I thought i've gotten rid of the rear end singing at 85-95 km/h, but no! After having ridden some 100 km:s, it's there, loud and clear. Easiest to hear when reaching furthest back on the saddle, in normal stance it's hardly audible. Wether I'm accelerating or on overrun has no effect on the sound, neither if I pull the clutch and drop to idle. It's only the speed that provokes the sound. The pitch seems to be constant, only the volume increases. It started right about the same time when I changed the rear end oil, so could it be that the Motorex 85/95 stuff turns thin when sufficiently heated? And yes, I have added the Moly. Come to think of it, I also put Motorex gear oil in and when the gearbox is hot, the gearchange is tacky. Or could I be suffering from excessive tyre noise? Any learned guesses or even knowledge, anyone? Or how can I pinpoint what generates the sound. In a dyno, perhaps?