lemppari

Ahhh, I have also been drooling over said item, it would look just perfect on the Rosso Mandello, but it would seem to be smaller than the original and when considering the amount of rainy days here in Finland, hmmmmmm..... The carbon generator cover would be nice, too!

If spacer is too short & you torque up axle you will misalign inner race to outer, & bearings can be gone in first few yards. Check it! KB And that was lesson number 2: Always check the axle torque after you've had the rear wheel changed by someone else! The guy who changed it the last time must've had at least two meters' extension over the wrench, judging by the tightness. Maybe he was more used to heavy rigs.... The axle was almost jammed solid and took some time to knock loose. No wonder the bearing was singing, even I would scream in a likely situation. That was the first and last time I buy a tire from THAT shop.

Nothing mystical about it now, the fuel consumtion dropped noticeably and the engine is sweet. If only there weren't the rear wheel bearing(s?) howling......

There is a thread about this somewhere, it may be the spacer between the bearings is too short. That's just what I thought, too. I'll have to contend with new bearings for time being and delve into the spacer lenght come next winter. I just found a mechanic with a mc lift, so things are going forward.

Rode 650 km's up to Lapland today. The engine purrs fine after the last TB sync using the Micha method, getting 5,9 liters/100 km, riding 130-140 km/h. All should be well,BUT: As a devout Guzzichondriac, I began to hear a new sound, a yawling or whine, from the rear. I have just changed the rear trans oil and added some moly, as I do every 5-6000 km's, so it shouldn't be the rear transmisssion. One hears it at speeds from 75-90 km/h. The only thing I can think of is rear wheel bearings. I had to change them some 12 000 km's ago, so if it's that,my RM really eats it's bearings at an alarming rate. Or is it that the Michelin Pilot Sport is a really loud tyre when getting worn? Anyways, I can't just overlook the possibility of a worn out wheel bearing. Why does it always have to happen when I'm up here in Lapland where spare parts don't exactly grow abudantly in trees! Of course I could ride back south keeping my speed over 140 because then I can't hear the strange noise

Very glad to have made somebody's day, though. With my level of expertise, I'm looking forward to installing a myECU. New stories abound, for shure! That's good, I was wearing Cliff's patience pretty thin. I will be able to watch while someone else asks the stupid questions / makes stupid mistakes. Mine's not perfect yet but reached the point where I have closed the lid & no longer take the stock with me as a backup, No going back now that's for sure. Congratulations Yep, and that is why I'm still wavering between the myECU and Tuneboy. With Tuneboy, I at least get started with the original map, that is, I can still ride!! Then again, if I wait a coupla months, it'll be snow and ice everywhere and I can start fiddling with the myECU safely inside in a garage, waiting for the next spring...

Today, the ambient temp is 20 on the dot and I have put the dots in their rightful place. TPS reads .!532 V on idle and the engine just purrs. WOT reads 4.9ish. Very glad to have made somebody's day, though. With my level of expertise, I'm looking forward to installing a myECU. New stories abound, for shure!

I still have stock ECU, but worst of all, I still only have my stock brain! Several days of over 35 degrees centigrade have obviously been too much to cope with for a typical Finn, and the brain overcooked. That 0.98 was VOLTS,which corresponds with .980 milliVolts, far too rich. Well, back to the coalmine, come next morning. That thing with where to put the dots was too much in the heat. I never was good with decimals, but I'm competent at decimating things!

I decided to test the Micha method,adjusted the valves,opened up the air bleeds 1 full round,balanced the TB's at two thou and added the idle balancing with the bleeds. Then came the TPS setting. Hmmmm, strangely enough, the reading was 4.98 at idle. And I just couldn't get a higher reading, whatever I did with the TPS. Clockwise, anticlockwise, time and time again. After disengaging the meter wires and connecting them again, the TPS reading at idle shows 1.02! At WOT it shows the afore mentioned 5.0?!! When I disconnected the conrod and "choke" and adjusted the TPS to anything between 150 and 250 mV, the engine didn't like running at all??? The engine runs well with the TPS at 1.02, I checked the battery voltage for obvious faulty readings but that was OK. So, am I loosing my mind or am I loosing the TPS or what?

The 6th gear in my RM was louder than the open Mistrals! Adding some Moly didn't have any effect, the whail was still louder than the exhaust. I bought a used box from eBay and have now what I assume to be normal straight cut whine. You can hear it but it doesn't bother, on the contrary!

Well,after a lot of toing and froing I'm inclined to aquiring a Tuneboy so I don't have to mess with additional wiring and/or boxes. It is illegal and punishable to mess with the mapping in Finland, even if you only want to get a more even torque curve, so adding another box besides the original is a sure giveaway. Much harder to prove that the original map is slightly altered when everything looks OEM.

One of the contacts in the aftermost relay base was extremely loose. It is also worth taking the tank off and checking the connectors of the clutch lever microswitch situated under the tank. They are of the cheap Abiko type and loosen easily, I was told.

After stopping and killing the engine I suddenly remembered I had forgotten to run an errand and switched on again. Follows the familiar priming of the pump sound, follows pressing the start button. Follows....nothing. Not even a click from starter relay. Pull the clutch and push the button.....silence. Pull the bike upright, sidestand in, clutch in....nothing. Switch off and on again a couple of times and basta. The RM starts WITH the sidestand DOWN, clutch pulled. OK, first things first, I'll check the relay base once again, but what then? Incidentally, I didn't have such problems before my moose bang, because the previous owner had dismantled the sidestand switch as well as the clutch microswitch. When rebuilt by the importer's service, they put all the stuff back on. Upside is all new electrics, downside, well....silence. But at least I got the speedo working again.

There was at least pictures of a beautiful Moto Guzzi Dondolino, don't know wether it was actually on the track!

Rumbling through my things, I found a tube of Super Epoxy which is to be applied liberally on the bottom of the gear casing and basta!

Yep, it was just as you said, the plate was out and the worm gears inside had lost contact. Didn't understand it at first because the plate was visible already when I bought the bike. Having gotten accustomed with peculiar solutions made in Mandello, I couldn't see that the plate had protruded some mils more! It's pressed together now and the speedo works again. Thanks for your input! No doubt there will be more peculiarities in the future, but I can always count on getting support and advice here.

Just found a metal ring from my million-box and it fits as a shim. Now it's the dreaded 50 meter testride once again.... EDIT: the first 50 meters went well, until I stopped reversed and turned around. The speedo needle didn't move after that. I stopped, turned around again and the speedo started playing but suddenly dropped to zero again. When tested separately with a drill, the speedo works fine even when suddenly stopped. Driven through the angled gear likewise. Putting the lower shaft in the worm gear housing, I couldn't stop it in any way from moving when the driveshaft revolves. When all these separately working bits are together, see above. Really starts pissing me up, does it!!

Ok,the worm gear pickup works per se. I put the lower shaft from the angle gear in the pickup housing and it rotates evenly and doesn't have excessive play. PHEEW! What a relief! No need to dismantle the gearbox. After inspection I put it all together and did a test run. After 30 metres the speedo needle suddenly dropped to zero again. I measured the height of the lower shaft when dropped into the pickup housing and the depth it needs to sink into the angle gear from below and there it was. It would need a 1.5 mm shim as not to drop so low that it doesn't connect. I have a similar pickup in the whinig gearbox which I took off from the bike, so I could swap the parts, but I still wonder why the importer advised against taking the worm gear off by myself.

The angle gear is intact and working as I tested it using a drill. It's when it is in place screwed tight to the worm gear pickup housing when the speedo doesn't work. I just hope that when half loose, the rectangular pin might have worn out the corresponding slot in the upper end of the worm gear shaft and nothing is loose inside the box.

Anybody ever had the worm gear pickup for the speedo bust? The speedo needle suddenly dropped to zero and I found that the collar of theangled gear had loosened itself so I wound it tight on the roadside, but the speedo stayd dead. Back home I tested it with a drill and yes, it works. So there is only the worm gear pickup left. The importer in Finland advised not to dismantle it for fear of dropping something inside the gearbox, but according to the parts cataloque pictures there shouldn't be any loose parts like shims or whatnot. In the old five speeder, you had that all important small pebble to worry about, but I couldn't see anything like it in the picture of the six-speed gearbox. The thing I'm mostly afraid is wether the rotor has dropped loose in the gearbox.....

I did some preliminary testing and I think there is more power available in the low rev range than what the stock regs are putting out. The regulator is a pretty critical item, especially on a trip away there's no reason they should be failing like that. Roy Again, in my old LM I, I had an aftermarket reg/rectifier from Silent Hektik which claimed just that: it gave more juice in low revs. The previous owner had had it attached to inside of the generator cover, so being partly of plastic it went and melted! Now it is replaced by a newer version made of metal and works fine. In older big blocks it was commonly known that the factory reg only starts delivering at higher revs.

Yep, I put a normal 8x20 bolt in place of the fallen for time being. After I get back from Lapland which is indidentally probably the warmest place in Europe right now with temperatures near 30 deg. centigrade, I will get new break away bolts. Some English Jap-plastic-bullet oriented mag once came up with only one positive comment on Guzzis, though. They thought that it is the only bike they know that you can leave parked overnight with the ignition key in place and still have the bike in the same place where you left it next morning....

The colleque told me to thank you guys sincerely for all the advice. He went and took the tank and covers etc. off to check and mend the wiring and connections and voltage thorougly. This goes to show once again how one gets helped round here. Or is it simply because we all are in the same leaking little boat in a huge electric storm called 'Made in Mandello'?

A fellow Guzzista in the finnish forum is in trouble with his 1100 Sport. After a few km:s the engine suddenly starts sputtering, but only at over 2000 revs! If he keeps the revs below that, the engine runs normally and idles well. After a while the problem dissappears, only to start again a little later. The battery voltage was measured at 12,8 and a normal charge current.The owner is able to read the failure memory which gives codes 3-3 and 1-6. They are petrol pump cutout and battery voltage failure. Could someone offer a plausible explanation?...Raz maybe?