lemppari

Are the ignition lock bolts normal hex bolts? I seem to have lost one and the other is also loose. Couldn't see properly in the dark. Edit: Got it already from on-line parts catalog,8x15 hexes.

It sure is a lot easier with the old LM I,the only electrics being lights and ignition. Very easy to diagnose which you most often have to do anyway because of old wire harness. Something to do come next winter IF my Rosso Mandello holds it together.....

I had the same experience plus the tacho and lights went dead. Voltage was anything between 9.8 and 18.6 V. The culprit was a loose connection at relay base under relay n:o 2. Roy has posted an excellent pic of how you remedy that. Not a hitch afterwords (knocks on head, err wood).

Hmmmmmm....Oddly enough I've ridden some 500 km in these last two days with no rough running or hiccups and getting a decent mileage of 40 miles/US gal. One begins to wonder if the PC is worth the money and effort....

To sum it up, it seems that the bleeds i.e. bypasses do not have a noticeable impact beyond idle, so any hiccuping at low to medium revs has to be corrected by altering the mixture, which translates to altering the standard map. PC it is, then.

Yep, didn't want an overly loud bike. If I want sound, I take my LM I for a spin.

That's the problem with me, I still think Dell'Orto way. With carbs, your idle circuit affects how the engine runs above idle, too. Well, I'll just as well phone a friend who does dyno and PC jobs.

I had the same symptoms in my RM two years back and traced them back to N.o 2 relay and specifically the female connectors underneath. I just bent the middle of the 'spade' inward with a small screwdriver and voilá, no problems with the electrics ever since. (Knocks his head..er..wood)

Fully closed. When I bought the bike, it had torque from idle to top with a poor mileage and when measured, the TPS was set at 420 fully closed. After changing to Mistrals, I set it at 150 mV, resulting in an excellent mileage (appr.5 liters/100 km instead of 7,5-8), but poor and erratic running below 3200 revs. After gradually raising the TPS setting I ended up with 245. Now I get a reasonable mileage but as I wrote, the coughing is disturbing when engine braking below 2000 and opening up.I know I'm probably running with a slightly thin mixture because of the better breathing and it would be wise to put the bike through a dyno test, but the symptoms got me to think wether it would be feasible to get a richer mixture below 2000 by closing the bypasses a tad.

Ok, I've opened up the intake following instructions on the site, and I've changed the original pipes for open Mistrals. The bike runs surprisingly well otherwise, but for a small hitch: Slowing down to a crossing with engine braking, if the revs fall under 1900, the engine starts coughing when on throttle again. That got me thinking that would it be something only a Power Commander can remedy because the mixture is obviously on thin side, or do the bleeds or bypasses in TB:s still play a role? Would turning them tighter a bit help in getting a slightly richer mixture between idle and 2000 revs? The valve clearances and TB balance are OK, TPS is set at 245 mV because under that, the engine ran poorly.

When I bought my Rosso Mandello from Gemany and rode it home to Finland, the front wheel bearings went bust in southern Sweden. The culprit is said to be a slightly too long spacer tube in front wheel. Next summer I was on my way back home from Italy when the rear wheel bearings broke in northern Germany. This time it was the spacer tube that is slightly too long in the rear wheel. Well done, Mandello!!! Considering I was heading back to Finland both times, it is also possible that the bike simply does not like it up here!

So, you say that if my bike drops too much, I should change to SOFTER? Not in my lifetime, not!

YESYESYESYESSS! Just home from a 100 km testrun. The gearbox works perfectly and most importantly, the sixth gear does not win the noise competition between it and exhaust......In fact, what with the wind, exhaust and more open intake, I just couldn't hear any noise from the sixth. Otherwise, riding a motorbike for the first time this spring was as dull and stupid as it usually is........ I'm still hovering near the ceiling!

Haha, thinking about that I almost switched the gearchange covers! Amids a big turmoil in everyday life I haven't had time to open up the original Pandora's box yet, let alone service the wife's Nevada. Guessing from the fact that the mixture was set really rich (TPS 420 mV with everything srewed out and unconnected!) I would suspect that the previous owner liked to trundle along slowly in high gear and hack the teething in the process? Could be a wise move to stash a few springs in the toolbox, though.....

When I had relay problems, the first to go was the tach, every time, followed by other eery symptoms. It turned out to be a poor connection in the socket. After bending the connectors a little to get better contact I haven't had the bike miss a beat.

Done in two hasty, overly long days this weekend. My Rosso Mandello has had a really loud sixth gear as long as I've had the bike, even louder than the open Mistrals at speed. So, when the bike was being repaired by the MG official importer after my second collision with a moose a year ago, I asked for the price of a gearbox job. They estimated a sum of 3500 euros..... Well you guessed it, no deal at THAT price. Then I looked for the price of the parts, only. That would have been 800e or thereabouts at Stein+Dinse. I dared not ask for the price in Finland because of the above! So, out to hunt in eBay for a gearbox. Found one, too. Alleged kilometreage 8 000 and I got it for 490,- plus postage. Looked decent when opening the package, all gears engaged when I tested before assembly. It took some time to think through the box change and even more doing it. While at it, I did the Phil A. airbox conversion at the same time and the normal stuff one should do every now and then, oil change and such like. No liquid leaks, the smoke inside the wiring harness didn't escape either. The bike started on the button and sounded normal.It's still snowing intermittently whilst writing this, so I haven't had a chance to test the gearbox in speed. So now it's time to connect a power commander and then some dyno runs at our local Bike-Doctor and enjoy riding through the volcanic ash clouds the Icelanders very nicely donated us for the coming summer.

Try a combination of glossy and matt black bodywork with those gold trimmings you already designed. The eagle would look really cool on black. A friend of mine has a Nightrod in glossy/matt black and the combo looks good in nature.

We should already have a nice winter weather up here, few degrees minus and dry with a little snow. Instead, it's fiveish above zero, grey, damp, miserable constant rain. Reminds me actually of some gloomy films depicting future. SO IT'S HERE ALREADY!!!

What a bike! I'd take it rightaway just as it is! Now this is taking Ye Goode Olde Watt's Steam Engine and updating it to this Millenium! And I think the middle fairing is needed to cool things down a bit...

Fit is just about the only thing that matters when I choose a helmet. After my last encounter with a moose, I went through and tested every modular helmet been sold here. Schubert was the one and only helmet which left enough space in front of nose and mouth, all others kept pressing against my face. Talk about a neanderthal skullform! The only negative detail I've found so far with the helmet is the ridiculous small tabs which should signal a secure closing of the jaw piece. A totally needless piece of gadgetry which doesn't even work half the time. Otherwise, it has avery good venting and it's quiet considering it being a modular but I still use earplugs.

OK Hubert, just what I thought. The reason for that question is I'm trying to conjure something neater than the horrible Hepco&Becker standard luggage rack cum pannier...ummm...thing which looks bloody awful when riding without the hard cases. H&B offers neat quick release side kits to newer models and I thought I could add some attatchment points to a simple clean rack and do some welding and winding pipes to comform my existing side carrier kit to it. Only I'm not sure whether the Stucchi rack is sturdy enough and I haven't seen any other ready made products for the Elfe offered here in Europe.

That luggage rack doesn't look like any commercial product I've seen so far?

You can't go too loud if you only change the cans and leave the OE crossover in place. I have a pair of open carbon Mistrals behind the stock crossover and it resulted in a beautiful, deep tone without being overly loud. When I'm in the mood for loud, I'll take my LM I with open bellmouth Dell'Ortos and Lafranconi Competitione pipes for a spin. Wakes the dead, that is seriously LOUD!!! Nice to ride through small villages early in the morning.

As there is no way of dialing in the preload in the Marzes, where do the spacers go in a USD fork?

The valves should be replaced every 30 K or so, otherwise they will snap and destroy the head. Other than that, it's a delight to ride and really fast on a curvy road. There aren't that many tires to choose between nowadays, they being 16 inchers.