cash1000

Spring to strong for amazon home made spring compressor. Got a trip away this weekend so not got time to get racetech spring compressor so had to take forks to bike shop to change seals & oil. The Racetech tool would be good to get if a few V11 owners got together and shared cost. Anyone in NZ interested?

I get the idea. I've got everything here to make this so should be good. Doc - maybe new springs are a lot firmer than originals.

I need to replace fork seals as one is leaking. I've cant remove the caps because I can't access the blue hexagonal rod. The forks have been revalved and resprung using Racetech parts so inner parts of forks probably not original. The preload pipe can't be pulled away from the cap so you can get a spanner on it but you can see the blue rod through a hole in the spacer. There is a bolt with an 8mm hex head that screws vertically into the base of the fork leg. Undoing it maybe the solution. This doesn't appear on Guzzi parts diagram. Has anyone got any suggestions how I remove the cap?

Hi Marty Thanks for the offer. I will contact you. My thoughts would be to lower it so its flat and is flush with level of the tank and fuel door and get it painted. Doesn't need to be magnetic so Aluminuim alloy would be fine.I use a Givi tankbag that's attached to the outer ring of the fuel door. Replacing the pad how I describe would lower the tank bag and make it easier to ride with.

I would like to get rid off mine. Maybe replace it with something made out if sheet steel. I've found it a nuisinace when mounting tank bags. I would what the replacement one to be a lot flatter. It would need someone with good skills in working with sheet steel. Any ideas anyone?

I've got to replace the left hand fork seal as its leaking. (Dripping on ground) I've tried cleaning seal with no success.I think its past that. The workshop manual specfies SAE10 weight oil. What is this in fork oil grade 7.5? 10? Also I had the forks revalved and new springs using Racetech products. When I dismantle the forks how different are they going to be to that shown in the workshop manual? The local Guzzi dealer can supply the oil seals over night but the dust seals will have to come from Italy which is at least 3 weeks delivery time. Do I have to replace the dust seals?

I need to replace the left fork seal as its weeping oil. I had the forks fitted with better springs & Racetech valves a few years ago. What I am I likely to find when I dismantle the forks to change the seals & oil. Are the modifications likely to that different from original setup? Is it going to give me any problems?

I'm very tempted but I would think the freight cost to New Zealand would be very expensive.

Hi Corytrevor Any chance of a photo showing how you mounted the Voltage Monitor? Did you connect to battery or through ignition switch? Seems like something every V11 owner should have.

Backed of screw until only just touching the plunger. Had to use all adjustment on lever. Will need to bleed brakes again. I've fitted speed bleeders so should be easy.

I'm honest. Yes I did tighten the adjusting screw on the master cylinder because the brake lever was coming to close to the bar. Interesting that I did this 4 months ago and problem has only just arisen. Maybe due to the warmer temperatures we have now getting. What is the adjusting screw for if not to adjust the brake lever? I've now backed the adjusting screw back to minimum. Spinning the front wheel with it off the ground shows it binds briefly on the brake pads. I will work out which caliper it is. Hopefully a clean up will stop it binding.

Thank's for the feedback. I will check out tonight and report back

Had a shorted ride a couple of days ago. Going for a ride around country roads around home went around a couple of tight corners and over a small rise then bike started losing power. Thought motor was dying so pulled in clutch and it reved fine. The front brakes had locked on to the extent that front wheel would only just go around. Pulled over to side of road and felt calipers. They where hot. Left them for few minuties untill they cooled down. Got tool kit out and removed calipers and prised pads apart enough for front wheel would go around. Then road home (20ks) very slowly. Thinking back the brake lever had been very firm to squeeze at times. The calipers got a good clean when I replaced tyres a couple of months ago. Pads look ok. Brake fluid was replaced back in Auguist when I did 45k service.I quess I will be stripping calipers down and giving them a good clean. Bit scary. At least brakes didn't completely lock up.

Marty any idea where you can get these in NZ?

Is the a V11 Lemans hiding in the background of photo 13? I'm glad auction is along way from here. I could put a serious dent in bank a/c if it was closer

Is this what you are looking for? www.thirdgear.com.au/motorcycle-hid-xenon-35-w-bulb-kit/ No guarantee it will work. My brother suggested it after seeing how weak my headlight is.

Pirelli Angel GT's. I've found they offer good grip wet or dry. So far (8,000k's) the rear hasn't squared off any where as bad as other tyres

Checked lights over the other day and found brake/tail light on all the time. Ending up finding the ball bearing we speak of here was missing. Replaced but when reassembling I lost one of the nuts that holds the microswitch on. I dropped it landed on left foot and where to from there? Marty good idea to use a magnet.

Magnets in starter have come off. Yah a solution. Rather than replace starter or glue magnets can I replace part that magnets attach to? What part is it? Its not clear on parts diagram.

Put my battery in Marty's V11 and it started fine so battery is ok. So I've taken starter off bike and will get it checked out by an auto electrician (I'm not willing to pull it to bits) Does it mean anything that starter shaft rotates one and not other?

Thanks Marty that would be great. I've got a valve cover gasket you can have to. I will contact you

Ok got battery load tested. Shop said it was ok. They didn't suggest buying a new one. Connected wire between spade connector & battery. Still just get a click when trying to start. But battery on minder last night (CTEX XS 0.8). It has a 6 stage process and it only got to stage 5. Stage 6 is maintenance charging. Battery 13.1v. When trying to crank 6.0. Is thinking still that battery need replacing or starter motor at fault or both? Can I connect up another battery and try starting. Say a car battery? If starter motor what am I looking for to be wrong or do I get it checked out by a specialist?

Thanks guys for the help. Will work on it tonight and report back. Had battery tested by local mechanic. He said its ok. Doubtful. Getting it load tested at bike shop tomorrow. They have a new one in stock if old one dead. What does "startus interuptus' refer to? Does my motorbike gear count as PPE? Service station was unmanned. Kiwi_Roy yes I will post rally photos. Organisers doing a write up. I will see if they will post that to. There are some good photos of GOD. Next years rally in Canterbury region.

Hi At the Talley Rappit rally 2 weekends ago (New Zealands annual Moto Guzzi rally) I had a problem with my V11. It wouldn't start. With help I was able to push start it and it ran ok but still wouldn't start using the electric start. When you pushed the electric start button all you got was a click from the starter motor area. I also noticed when I started it that morning that the oil and ignition lights weren't working so may be ignition switch? But I cleaned that 4 months ago and I don't ride in dusty conditions. With help from others push starting the bike I was able to get home. Luckly I had a spare key on me so could fuel up without turning bike off. Last weekend I started to try and trace the problem. From Dangerous's post earlier this year I first checked the starter motor had wires connected which they were. With a fully charged battery (12.5V) result still no go (Its a motobat Battery about 4 years ago and sits on a trickle charger). Can you check the batteries condition with a battery hydrometer or are they sealed? I've cleaned earth strap on gearbox (it was clean). Relays are new about 2000ks ago. I swapped them around and tried old ones with no success. I connected a wire on relay 1 connecting 30 & 87 still only get a click. There is 12.5 volts on terminal 30. Measured voltage on starter motor while pushing start button. its about 5 volts. Is that correct? Talking to mechanic next to work who likes his bikes he thought it was starter motor brushes or solenoid. What do you guys think problem is? I'm not that great with electricial stuff so keep suggestions simple. Bike is a 2001 V11 Sport Rosso Mandello 42,000k's.

Many thanks Chuck. Ive just sent you an email