cash1000

Good idea Doc. Ive got cables for Guzzi Diag and am trying to understand how to operate software. So any help would be great.

Put me down for one to if there is another production run

Thanks Scud I've got Tattley Rappit Rally end of month so bike will need to hold together for that. The rally is NZ's Moto Guzzi Rally Otherwise on a mission.I emailed Peter Kelly of Motokiwi last night for price and availability of parts need

Is there a post that shows how to replace the clutch plate? Ideally with a better plate(s)

That's a bit scary.My RM has just clocked over 40,000 km's. I've had it since 3,000 km's with no clutch or gearbox work. Clutch fluid is due for a change but doesn't look dark. It occasionally gets a vague feel to gear box like its lost between gears when you change down while rolling to a stop. It also squeals a little bit when taking off quickly. Will I get any warning that clutch plate is about to go?

Got mine installed over week end. No problem except for needing 3 hands to hold in place while getting screws in.

Don't just think v - twins. remember Guzzi's history covers all types of engine configurations so maybe a Moto 3 250 single?

Found a solution These people will take out old bush and make a new one for about $NZ50 www.autolign.co.nz Look under products/bushes/Nolathane Bushes: http://www.autolign.co.nz/catalogue/nolathane-bushes/index

Has anybody replaced the bush with the item Victor recommends? I've found same bush at Gutsibits part no WHA88345 www.gutsibits.co.uk But they recommend it only for the CART Guzzi models. I've got them checking price and availability for the whole arm but don't expect it will be cheap! They have quoted 160 pound incl freight to NZ with a 8 week wait.

Hi Victor Have you got a source for the bush that has an English language website? I can't translate the website you gave from german to English. I didn't replace the original damaged bush and the 8.8 bolt is showing signs of wear. I until I sort replacement bush I've replaced with a new bolt.

Rosso Mandello no problems 40,000 k's but on second speedo earlier k's unknown

There is no sign that it had a bracket to attach to rear mudguard. Previous owner may have done a tidy job in removing them? I've got them fitted now. They look good. Far better than the throw overs I used before. No more bungy cords. I had to shift the centre mounting points about a 1 cm to line up with the ventura bracket. Will give them a few coats of paint to tidy them up. First trip away with them in about a months time to see family in Dunedin.

Correct Doc. Previous owner said it worked fine. Looks like I am going to have to do the same

Hopefully this photo is a bit bigger. I've also attached a photo of previous owners bike with frames fitted. 3rd mounting point is in middle of frame rather than the rear to attach to rear fender. This works in well with the Ventura rail that he had fitted. I used to have a ventura grab rail fitted to bike so I've still got the mounting bracket under the set fitted. What I'm trying to work out what spacers to use between bracket & frame. At the moment I'm thinking a 8mm nut & bolt with a steel tube between the two

Hi I've just purchased a pair of Tekno bags and frames. Photo attached Can someone let me know how the centre mounting point attaches to the bike. Maybe a close up photo?

I'll have one for my 01 V11 RM

Not had much time to work on bike lately but what I've found so far is Red/Black wire has 10.68 v with ignition on but bike not started. If I detach wire from one horn on outer side of bike then the other horn goes. I've tried pulling out the connectors that attach to the relays but no go. I used tool Roy describes. Plugged in new relays but this made no difference. Checked ignition blub by swapping with another blub still no go.Still need to check grounding.

I will try again

I suspect someone has been here before me - see photo Could this be the cause of problems?

Scud - Apologies it was I who misread your post. Trip meter knob now removed. Kiwi Roy & Doc - Thanks for your suggestions I will work through them and let you know how I get on. I'm not that confident with electricial stuff so here is a chance to learn.

Kiwi Roy - I've replaced originals with similar round horns Scud - Think you misunderstood my question - I want to remove the Tripmeter reset knob so I remove the casing that covers the back of speedo & rev counter so I can find electricial fault.

Thanks for that. Got to opening up back of instruments last night but got stuck on removing knob that winds tripmeter. How do you remove it? Any thoughts on why horns not working?

Hi I noticed the other day that generator light no longer goes and tachometer was wavering when revs above 5000 rpm. Also long standing problem horn only has a feeble beeb when ignition on and bike going. Once bike has been ridden for a while horn then goes. Ive replaced the horns with similar items. They worked fine for a while then went back to the feeble beeb again. Battery is a Motoblat and is a couple of years old voltage is 12.8v. Bike starts and runs fine. Any suggests as to solutions to these problems?

Got my front forks revalved with Racetech parts and new Orlins rear spring and valves. Great investment. Bike now not upset by bumps. Just charge through them. Got work done by Kiwi Suspension Services here in NZ.

Got Givi Tanklock tank bag fitted. Because locking ring on tank sat below the level of the Tank Protector/Chin Pad I used longer screws and plain washer to raise the ring higher. Also found the bag sat to far back on tank. When riding bag press's against my chest. I'm 6'3" with long arms so anyone shorter would not be able to use bag like this. I've used 2 plastic chopping boards cut to fit, painted black and screwed to base of bag to shift bag further forward on tank. Its not a work of art but it works. Photos attached.