cash1000

Has no one got an answer to my question????

Tried new Z8 on front with half worn Z6 on back. No good would not tip into corners smoothly. Put new Z8 on back. Now better than with Z6's on. Stable at speed and under braking excellent roll into corners. Does any one want to buy a half worn Metzler 180/55 Z6?

Ok I've tried to loosen the clutch bleed nipple so I can replace it with speedbleed nipple but no go(It's been chewed up by vice grips of previous owner and now me!) so I'm going to remove clutch master cylinder so it will be easier to remove the nipple. I've loosen the 3 mounting screws. What's going to happen when I remove the screws and cylinder? Is everything behind the cylinder going to stay in place or come flying out at me and leave me with a mess of parts that I won't know how to put back together? Or should I have left this to the Guzzi dealer?

No clutch or oil drip! What's involved in sorting the dry thrust washer?

How do you know if clutch needs replacing or is on its way out? My RM lets out a short squeal when taking off from stand still. Does this mean clutch is failing?

Our thoughts are with you in this time of need

I'm running Metezlers Z6s on my MG RM. The front needs replacing. I thought I would try the Z8. Has anyoner got any thoughts on what they are like? Could I run a Z8 front and Z6 rear without any problems in handling?

Hi Got Forks & Shock back. All fitted and feels great. Sits on road well. no more getting jared by forks or rear shock when hitting bumps. Tracks round courners. Can lean into courners now with out fear of hitting a bump and front end getting deflected off line. Cost in the end was close to $NZ2000 This is what they did Description Of Work Done Shock Absorber (Sachs) Respring shock absorber Dyno test to establish standard damping curves. Fit Ohlins piston and valving and dyno test. Successfully change valving and re dyno test to match Ohlins force curves for that model. Replace seal had. Forks Pull apart and assess. Replace fork seals and respring. Fit new preload spacer tubes and guides to match. Modify pistons and valve to improve chassis pitch control and bump absorption quality. I used Robert Taylor of Kiwi Suspensions Solutions to do the above work. Contact details are Kiwi Suspension Solutions Ltd Ph: (+64) 06-751 2100 Fax: (+64) 06-751 4551 Email: admin@kss.net.nz

Good to here we are on the right track. The guy I'm using has a very good reputation in NZ. Does suspension setup for top road race teams here. I'm sending the shock and front forks to him in about 3 weeks. Will let you know results when I get them back.

I've been searching for some way to upgrade the suspension on my RM. I was about to purchase Hyper Pro shock and front springs from Austraila because they where the only option that was within my budget and available within the New Zealand and Australia. I spoke to a mate who suggested I try the local Ohlins agent. I thought they would be to expensive. It turns out they are not. Their response was REAR ( Sachs ) SHOCK The actual bones of these shocks isn’t too bad, many of the internal parts are a close copy of Ohlins but the settings and spring rate selection are not so flash. And given your roads in the Christchurch area ( was there over the weekend ) I can understand where you are coming from. What we do in an instance like this is to change the spring for a more suitable rate and happily Ohlins springs fit straight on Sachs. We then pull the shock apart and instal an Ohlins piston and valving into it. Ohlins make a shock for the V11 as oem supply to Moto Guzzi, given that the body tube internal diameter is the same from Ohlins to Sachs we can replicate an Ohlins type feel and compliance into that shock. The whole job if you send us the shock amounts to around $650. Were an Ohlins available for it as aftermarket supply it would be around $2000. FRONT FORKS I was hoping you were going to say Showa or Sachs as opposed to Marzocchi. These will likely have progressively wound springs that are too light in start rate but then way too aggressive in end rate. So changing the springs alone in a linear wind rate appropriate to you with careful selection of oil viscosity, airgap and spring preload will yield a decent bang for buck result. About $450 to $500. BUT, in an ideal world the cartridges would be pulled apart and the pistons assessed as to whether they can be revalved or absolutely have to be replaced to attain the flow rates required. What concerns me is the very distinct possibility that these are swaged together sealed for life cartridges. Research info is pretty sketchy for many of these Italian bikes, if you have ready access to an exploded parts diagram for the front forks that you could e-mail to me I can then furnish a better answer. What do you all think of his ideas?

I'm not sure what the light system means on your charger. Do you have a digital volt meter? Set for 20 Volts DC. Check static (after sitting). Turn the key on with the hi-beam headlamp for three minutes: recheck voltage. Start and check voltage at idle and at, say, 2500 or 3000 rpm. You can also watch voltage as the starter turns over. Let's see what you get! Finally got to checking voltage. Had to replace meter as it was reading 30v which had to be wrong With new digital meter static is 12.8. While starting 9.8. Running at 3000 rpm 13.5 All ok?

Thanks for that. Has any one got any others? I havn't got software to open files with eps suffix. Has any one got these emblems in jpeg files? The zip files contain both jpg and eps. EPS stands for 'encapsulated post script' which are the most accurate print files. Even Photoshop elements can open them - what are you using? Are you going to print the tee shirts yourself? Thanks. Opened files using word after looking up what eps files were on internet. Only intend to print a one off t-shirt as couldn't find one on internet I liked or didn't cost the earth

I would be interested in a red or black long sleeve size xxl

Thanks for that. Has any one got any others? I havn't got software to open files with eps suffix. Has any one got these emblems in jpeg files?

14.0-14.6 is what the regulator tries to maintain. I believe it is normal for the voltage to drop below 14 Volts at idle. Higher voltages then 14.6 may indicate a tendency to cook wires and batteries. Be sure that you have an accurate voltmeter, mine reads about two volts high...time to get another one... Battery voltage after sitting overnight should be 12.6V (key off), after a failed start the voltage should be a little less, and after riding, the voltage will be a little higher. I think my regulator has been acting up lately, so I'll be doing some diagnosis myself this weekend. To check the voltage do you put probes from meter on + ve & - ve posts on battery when bike is going and when not? What setting does meter go on? I just put a MotoBatt battery on RM. Previous MG one lasted 5 years. Hooked a battery CTEK tender up to it as well. Noticed tender went to 2 lights after a 100 k ride. 3 hours later was up to 5 out of 6. Does this sound right?

Thanks for that. Has any one got any others?

I want to make up a long sleeve t- shirt with motoguzzi emblems on it ie V11 symbol , guzzi eagle, words Motoguzzi etc. If you have any that can be transferred onto a t-shirt please send them to me. Would personal message be best way?

From reading the link on this post I can see that I'm not alone in having the nipple rounded off

The V11 Sport is meant to have a tank size of 24 litres I'v only managed to fit 20 litres when I ran out of petrol. Is tank 24 litres?

Does anyone know where I can get the bleed nipple you use to bleed the clutch fluid? Mine looks like its been attacked by someone with some vice grips. Flats on it are all chewed up. Guzzi will not supply it seperatley. Only whole unit it screws into which costs $NZ385. Would like to get a replacement before I remove it.Any ideas?

Thanks for the advice. Ending up taking bike to Emoto, Guzzi dealer in Christchurch. They found that fault was a loose connection in wiring loom under the tank. Bike going fine now.

Bike died while I was on a ride today. First noticed there was a problem when taco stopped working. Thought ok I can live with out that so kept riding. Then I noticed indicators were not working. At this point I decided to head for home. Bike was still running ok. Got to within 10km of home and bike started missing. A couple of hundred meters later completely died. Battery so flat wouldn't even try to turn over. Same thing happened a couple of years ago it turned out to be a faulty cut out switch on side stand. Local MG dealer couldn't trace fault so they took it to an auto electricial who traced fault to the switch. They by passed the switch so its not the same fault again. Think I will be taking bike back to him. Rang my wife who got trailer and picked me and bike up. At least it wasn't far from home.

Is the manual on the link below any good? I've downloaded the Moto Guzzi manuls from the internet so is it worth getting this one as well? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=487555914

I'm after a belly pan for a V11 if any one in New Zealand let me know