cash1000

Did mine at weekend (Thanks for the lend of the Manometer MartyNZ). Runs heaps better. I know now not to unscrew the knob on left hand side. Rod unhooks on right hand side

At last RM is back in 1 piece and running . What a saga. From trying to fit gearbox with clutch plate the wrong way around (Cases don't meet by about 5mm); Not being able to bleed clutch due to screw on lever being wound in to far; Waiting for Clutch master kit to arrive (That in end I didn't need); Gearbox leaking due to water in box after I washed it prior to painting (Gearbox came out again to get joints resealed). Taking gearbox out again to get screws holding slave cylinder removed after they jammed. Learnt heap's. Many thanks for everybody's help.

I get what you mean. I'm thinking of possible fragile nature of single plate clutch flywheels.

Thinking a punch maybe a bit aggresive but a dot of paint. Yes good idea. Otherwise totally go with what you are saying

Yes they are so you can fit flywheel in any of 6 positions

Does the position of the flywheel on the crankshaft affect the running of a V11 motor? If flywheel is not in correct position I know that the S & T marks won’t be in correct position but that won’t affect running of motor. When I had the flywheel crack tested the caulk mark was mostly wiped off. I used what I thought was the mark when I reinstalled flywheel. As I’ve got the gearbox out I thought I should check. I’ve found instructions for flywheel position in Dave Richard’s Guzziology.

Thanks. Good thinking. Will double check tonight. Got tank, seat & airbox off so will be easy to check. But in short time engine was running level in g/b sight glass when from full to bottom of glass. Smell of g/b fluid was strong to.

Yes,Yes, Glad I'm not alone

Other problem still to solve is oil leak from upper back of gearbox. It's a generous leak so looks like gearbox is coming out again - oh goody

Took Bosch spark plugs out. They looking very dark Replaced them with NGK's BPR6ES's. Running a bit better but still needs use of choke & throttle to idle. (not good) What would cause it to run so lean. Something changed during reassembly? This is weird for a bike that was running well before gearbox problem. Also has an oil leak from rear left hand side of gearbox. As in its dripping on to exhaust under g/b. Was gearbox sealed properly or is leak from elsewhere. I will replace g/b oil to check I've filled with correct amount. If overfull it could be being spat out.

I would love to go there. Thank's MartyNZ. I will see how I go with Docs Tune up list.

Good idea

RM lives all but a bit roughly . I had to remove rod between fuel injection units to remove gearbox. I'm thinking these need synconising. I know someone who has the tool to do it. Went with the 12.7mm fuel line. I know Repco have a reel of 12mm selling for $1,500 which is a bit much qty & $. Will ask & see what they can do

Heater hose been thrown out. Got some 12.7mm fuel hose. Will give that ago tonight. Been on a few wild goose chases with this. Found what is advertised as 12mm is actually 12.7mm (1/2 inch). Weird NZ has been metric for 30 years yet still get stuff in inches.

So close. 12mm ID fuel line is not easy to get here in NZ. Got some heater hose that will do in short term.

Been away on holiday. Got V11 all back together last night. Now I find the fuel hose has a spilt in it at the pump end (Its not original. That was replaced years ago) So tank & seat off again & find some 12mm fuel hose

Photo was from a few years ago so before saga started. But hopefully will have bike back together & going tonight 🤞

Problem solved. Adjustor on clutch lever had backed itself in blocking holes in base of clutch fluid reservoir