vuzzi

And here is the adjusted wiring. You could add a fuse in line to the starter

A while ago I make a drawing of the wiring adjustment, based on a drawing by Roy Kiwi. Here is the original

You 'll need to unscrew the 3 (as I remember) torx bolts at the front. The ones that run all the way to the back of the starter. It might have been the plunger on top of the start engine. It may got stuck just at the point the starter relay had not jet been able to let the start engine run. This cound occur in combination of a too weak battery or too much resistance in the wiring. When the road-side assistance put power on the starter engine, it may have still been in gear 'cause it was stuck. This made it rev once. The plunger than came loose and the starter runs without revving the engine. (just my guess) I'd would check if the plunger can travel freely. Otherwise, clean and rub with some engine oil.

Thanks fot the replies. My question brought up some additional interesing questions and thoughts. But for me for now I don't see any need to open up the rear drive bevel again. I'm waiting for the snow to disapear and hope for an opportunity to ride soon.

I recently took the rear bevel box of a griso 1100 (2008) for reagular maintenance of the rear parts. I notice that, when rotating the ingoing shaft of the box, the resistance is quite big. Much bigger that the one of a v11 I happend to have in stock. It's quite hard to turn it around with bare hands I opened the box, but couldn't see any signs of wear. Is the high friction normal? Is the high friction caused by the reaction mechanism?

For the no start isue: I had the same thing. The problem with many of the later models is that the relay powering the starter solenoid gets it's current al the way through the ignition switch, causing too much resistence. What you ll have to do is add a new extra relay. It's easy. Once I did the vollowing the problem was gone. Use the wire from point 87 of the starter relay (originaly feedling the starter) to feed 86 of e new relay, 85 of the new relay goes to ground. Now take a good wire from the battery to 30 of the new relay and and put the wire going to the starter (earlier cut from 87 of the old relay) to 87 of the new relay. Now the starter sollenoid is fed only going through 1 relay.

I'm interested in this Cafe sport, which is for sale. It came from Italy. The shop owner won't let me take a test ride because of salt on the roads (winter time). I suspect it has had a crash as the front midguard has a crack, the windshield is missing and both the alternator cover and the odometer support are held by (not original) hex screws. Does anyone know the previous onwer? Note also the protectors on the cilinder heads. Cheers

Had this annoying drop of gearbox oil on the x-over every morning, giving a bad and probably not so healthy smell when using agip. Put in RL heavy shock proof. Thought also to maybe find out where the funny pink stuff would come out. But the leak is gone since I put RL in. Don't know why. Maybe it's thicker when hot? Don't quite understand, cause I thought the RL HSP oil is thin but acts as a thick oil? Shifting hasn't really improved using RL. May even have gotten worse. maybe time for new oil after 10.000 km?

Also check the spark plug caps. Easy to check (must be 5000 ohm). High fuel consumption can be caused by a bad spark.

The idle is adjusted through the small hex screw at either the left of right intake. Most use the left intake for the idle adjustment and back the RH adjustment screw off all the way, so that the linkage between the two throtle bodies is always under tension (at idle and off idle).

You may also want to check the exhaust headers for cracks. They can be hard to see, e.g when crached at a weld

I've recently experienced the same: relays 2, 4 and 5 (even more) get hot. I changed to GEI relays but that gave no noticable difference.

When I pulled my heads off a few years back I discovered that there were no gaskets at all in there. Don't know if that was due to the previous owner or the factory, but I put new ones in when I put it back together. I only had the lean cough when the exhaust nuts got loose when there were no gaskets installed. The gaskets can pretty much merge with the cylinder head. Take a screw driver and scrape some carbon off and see if you can get between the head and the gasket. My bet the old ones are there.

WP shock after the sachs cracked

Also check if the fuse is thight in the holder. Mine (the holder) got weak and floppy. I solders a heavy fuse holder in.

If there is oil coming from that hole, my guess is the seal ring between crank shaft and fly wheel leaks and puts oil air pressure in fly wheel compartment. The air pressure made the plug pop out.

I did it with a punch, gently punching it at one of the corners of the bolt

I think a lack of current at the sollenoid has a large part in this isssue. I have the same problem. The lack of current I guess is caused by the wiring going though the contact and back. In the inclosed picture the current comes from the battery through the contact, to pin 30 of the relay, through the relay, and then to the sollenoid. If I take the starter out and connect it to an old battery, it runs directly. I therefore always wandered if it would be possible to add an extra relay, which is feed by the original start relay (pin 87), and engages a current coming directly from the battery, going to the starter sollenoid (see second picture). Any gussestions about this? (Roy?)

I'd take the sump off, remove the oil filter and check if rubber ring comes off completely. Then replace the oilfilter and the oil. Fill the filter with oil before puting it on. Put it on thightly. The oil/engine temp sensor off will make the bike run richer. The tps has probably been adjustet to this setting. Put it back on and re-adjust the tps: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12204 You might also want to check the maps using guzzidiag: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865

best option I know is the workshop manual, though it's in several pictures. Guess it is impossible to get in one.

Check the intake rubbers, they may come off

LSL has loads of aftermarket bars: http://www.lsl.eu/php/index.php

That's great to know. The extra effect at 4000 rpm is just what I need. I'll try some adjustment soon. Cheers

OK, thanks. Good to know which maps are adding or multiplying. Too bad it is not known how the values in the trim maps are used. And how about the CO map. Is it true that it only works up to 3000 rpm?