vuzzi

There is a lot of discussion about using copper paste on alu / steel connections. It may cause electochemical corrosion. The head cover bolts on my bike always have some engine oil on them. They never get stuck. I also rub some engine oil on the gasket and use the gasket time after time

Nobody has any suggestions / ideas? Is this an unexplored area?

Good to read we have some experts in laundry here as well

I am comparing the maps in the standard ecu with those of the titanium kit. However, they have different values in to maps for temp corerctions (air and engine) end right cilinder. I would like to calculate the resulting fuel injection, to make a good compasison, also with the PC3 maps. So the PC3 used percentual changes. In the ecu map files i read that the map for the right cilinder is an offset map, and looking at the values it gives me the idea that the values have to be added tot the base map. The temp and also air pressure map are trim maps. I got a feeling these are percentages of change. Am I correct here? And how about the CO-trim? There is no map, and i understood that it works only up to 3000 rpm. is that so?

Does anyone know how the ecu uses the correction tables? Are the values of the corrections on the base fuel map added or is it a percentage correction for e.g.: Co Engine temp Right cilinder And how does a powercommander use it's correctiontable?

I still owe you an update: as the voltage of the battery kept dropping even when not installed (down to 11,5 V), which is uncommon, and the lack of power, I returned the battery. It turned out to be bad indeed, and I got a new one send back in a few days. Problem solved, bike crankes as normal now

make sure you have the bearings that can handle sideways presure. Some cannot and wil wear too fast. I dont have the numbers right now, but can chenk later

It appears to be the battery. After checking all the wires, relays, starter end fuses, i switching batteries, and the problem was gone. Ofcourse switching batteries should have been the first thing to do, but i just didnt expect that from a new battery. I had the old one with low power,, but that gave totally different simptoms, like very slow cranking. Never experienced this before.

12.5 was after some atempts to start. I tested the starter by connecting the ground to the starter housing, connecting the battery pos terminal to the starter engine pos, and then connecting the battery pos to the sollenoid connection on the starter

The battery is an odessey pc545, coming steaght from an optimate 5 charger. After trying to start a few times, swapping relays, trying, taking out the starter, testing, puting it back, trying to start again, the voltage is now 12.5 V. I have experienced a low battery before and it usually couldnt get the starter going or giving just the solenoid klick. I will at least swap batteries again tomorrow and see what happens...

I changed batteries today and now my bike has a strange starter issue: when i press the start button, the starter solenoid klicks very rapidly on, off, aboud 10 times per second, giving a machine gun like sound. Seems like when engaged the current goes off again through parhaps the starter relay, and when off, the current goes on again. I already cheched the starter, which seems fine. Anyone familiar with this issue, or has any ideas?

Yesterday I replaced the gearbox cover. The spring had broken in 2nd gear. When I took off the cover, I left the foks as they were, and when I replaced the cover, I had the wheels in second gear position again. My question: What could go wrong? Could it happen that one of the forks is nog in the gap on one of the wheels, eg when I accidently moved a fork at reassembly? ow would I notice? I haven't filled the gearoil. I have tried the gears though with the engine off. It seems to work, but could it still be wrong? I 'd like to know before I try with the engine on.

Does anybody know if you can fit the titanium kit w/ ecu on a bike without lambda sensor?

I had the problem too. I just updated a thread about it: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17922

I still owed you an update: I took the cover off, cleaned and greased the shaft. I also greased the external joints and refreshed the oil. After a summer with some really hot days and driving in slow traffic I haven't had the problem anymore. So some good maintenance works well. Only I don't know what the real cause was, since I did all the work in one go. cheers

Is the candy red on the Rosso the same as on the 'normal' red le mans?

Here's a link to some info on the Dutch Guzi club that may be helpfull: http://www.mgcn.nl/index.php/mg-paint-codes-dameijer-database-40 or this: http://www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/colours.php#makeid=98&modelid=2919&prodyear=2001&colourscheme=8192

Beter double check the exhaust gasket. They can be 'merged' with the cilinder head, that is, they can be hard to notice. Scrape along the edge with a knive or screw driver and maybe they will come off.

try this one: http://www.carbtune.com/ works great

This shouldn't make a difference at idle since you compensate by a slightly more closed throtle while setting the TSP at 530 mV again. Note that at step 4 in Tom's post, the right hand idle screw should be backed out. Also check that the "choke" is free at the right hand throtle body when balancing and setting tps and so on. Opening the air bleeders in step 2 leads to higher revs and must be compensated in step 4 by backing out the left hand idle screw. Opening the air bleed screws more in step 2 leads to a richer mixture at bigger throtle openings because the slightly smaller throtle opening is not fully compensated by the air bleed screws at bigger throtle openings (no lineair relation). After step 5 the idle rpm's may have changed so step 4 and 5 may need to be repeated.

here you can see the eccentric adjuster

The eccentric adjuster sets the distance the ratchet can move from the selector wheel. The ratchet is captured between the selector and the adjuster. If the eccentric adjuster is too tight, the ratchet won't be able to move down after rotating the selector when shifting up. If it's too loose I'm not sure what may happen, as the spring will keep the ratchet on the selector wheel. My guess is shifting will be less smooth. The best way to set the eccentric adjuster is probably to remove the cover. Then see how much play there is if the ratchet moves back from the upward position (when simulating gear shifting [up] by hand). When shifting up, the ratchet moves towards the eccentric adjuster whem going down again. Rotate the eccentric adjuster to have a small gap (app. 1 mm?) at the point where the ratchet is closest to the eccentric adjuster. If you don't want to remove the cover, it may work when you turn the eccentric adjuster counter clockwise up to a point the gear change lever won't move down after shifting up. From that point you rotate the eccentric adjuster clockwise, untill it moves down freely agian (and maybe a bit more).

All I know is what NOT to use, and what to take into account. I have a data tool 3 alarm, and it drains the battery in two weeks. Also, it cannot be turned off. For maintenance (work on the starter, battery and so on) it can be put in a maintenance mode, which means it gives a 100 db beep every (app.) 15 seconds. I can tell that's no fun when working on your bike. So look for a alarm that can be turned off all the way.

01114390 is replaced by 01114300. The intake rubber can also be blown off the manifold. sucking air. So check if it's still well in place. Maybe some tape can tell you if the rubbers are kracked all the way trough.

The milage is app. 20.000 (32.000 km). The external parts have been greased for this purpose last year. I also changed the fluid last year. The oil is pretty fresh too. The symptoms are prety much as Tom describes: the lever won't go down. I find it strange there is no problem from 1st to 2nd gear. Maybe after selecting 1st gear the the lever is already down and doesn't get up enough after selecting 2nd gear (it's been at least 6 months since the last time it happend). Maybe the spring pussing the lever back down isn't strong enough, maybe there is too much friction. Since the gasket is leaking a bit too, I think it a good idea to take the cover off and have a look at the springs / excentric adjuster / gease the shaft. Thanks so far, I'll let you know that I'll find.