vuzzi

Ok, i should clearify, after riding in slow traffic, say riding on a hot day trough a jammed town in 1st and 2nd gear, then when the road is free, i cann't shift up. The linkage seems OK. Shifting from 1 tot 2 is OK, and that's odd, as the lever makes the same movement as from 2nd to 3rd.

On hot summer days in slow traffic I cann't shift up from 2nd to 3rd gear. Since the winter is a bit longer than usual, I think tis is a good moment to have a look at that problem. My guess is that the preselector shaft needs to be greased there it goes in the gear box cover. The manual doesn't give any information about that. Anybody has an idea on how to grease and what grease to use? Or shall the problem have another cause?

+1

see picture

you can look up the model changes here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5691 It seems they started with the longer (black) frame late 2001.

it's probably the same as the downloaded one. You won't need much more than the downloaded one and this forum.

If the bike is running fine but idle is just a bit low, use the LH idle screw. Adjusting the bypass screw will affect the mixture unevenly at different throttle openings.

Red goes to the right hand injector on mine. The drawing in the parts manual page A15 is the other way araound I guess it is no problem to do it the other way around. It's fuel tank out -injector - injector - fuel tank in

Well, to be honest, I never use the webshop to order, so I don't know about that interface, but you can see what they have, and they have a lot. I then go there or call them on the telephone and ask to send.

TLM (www.tlm.nl) in the netherlands has most parts and a good web-shop

Great suggestion. I've looked them up and what is found is more or less like the ones on the tlm v11: http://www.swamotorsportwarehouse.com/YAMAHA-VIRAGO-FAZER-TDM850-250-535--XV535-700-750-1000-1100-HANDLEBAR-RISERS-CLAMPS-3263 I might give that a try, since I still like to have a superbike bar, though I got used to the clip ons too

Just sitebags, top bag. With tent, sleeping bag and pad and all. Strapped under and over buddy seat. No extra rack, just sadlle cover removed.

I have a set of fork upper plate, bar and bar clamps (form Ballabio / scura or similar) to put on my le mans. I found that the bar interferes with the flairing, so you might need an adjustment for that standard bar / clamps. There are solutions like handle bar risers (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2016/), but I don't like the make a 'complex' construction on the bar. You will need to move the bar towards you, not upwards. Different bar clamps may work. I 've seen the on a second hand v11 at tlm (sold now). I can't say much about the cables since the previous owned had had some sort of bar on the bike too and at leased changed the front brake cable. The clutch cable that is on the bike now may be standard and is too short.

I yesterday removed the oil sump (again) and took off the the oil filter holder. I was hoping to find a broken gasket but all was fine. Dissembled the OPRV hoping to find something that kept the valve open, but all was clean. I had no means to test it so but it back together. Next I replaced the 4 o-rings to the oil cooler. they seemed a bit flat, and the new ones seemed to be more tight. I was hooping this would solve the problem. Since right now I couldn't find anything else, I was about to refit the filter holder. But first gave it a visual 'inspection'. By pure coincidence I noticed a rubber ring between the filter holder and the filter that appeared broken. Took the filter off and there it was: Half of the rubber ring of the old filter was still there, as you can see on the picture. I clearly hadn't checked or noticed it when replacing the old filter two weeks ago. Put it all together again, now also with recommended hose clamp on the filter. I only haven't tested the pressure jet, cause I still need to get the oil in the engine from a small bowl without making a mesh. But I'm quite sure the problem is found and fixed. If not, I'll let you know... Thanks

I check that, and (unfortunately) they were not switched. There were no metal pieces in the oil, so for now I'll assume excessive clearance between the crank and bearings is not the case. I guess I'll have to take a look at the pressure valve. maybe there is some leak behind the thermostatic valve (to or from the radiator) which could explain pressure loss with warm engine? Another thing I heard was moist on the clear plastic sleeve where the sensor is attached to the engine block, so I'll have to check that too.

A few days ago I drove from work and noticed the oil pressure light came up at the traffic light. After reving up the light went out again. I drove home keeping the revs over 2500 rpm. This morning a instaled a new oil pressure sensor, and for a minute I thought it was solved when I took a ride. However, after some 4 km the engine got hotter and the light came on again at low ( At home I drained the oil and took off the oil sump. I assumed the oil filter or oil filter holder had come loose (I replaced the filter 300 km earlier), but all was well in place. Anybody any suggestions of what could be the problem? Somewhere else on this forum I read about the oil pressure relief valve, which might be the cause. Any idears on how to check that? And how about the pump? Cheers

I still have to install a PC3. Before I do I 've contacted a tuner. The guy told me that open exhausts have an effect on the engine behavour and tuning, but K&N or original filter hardly makes a difference. Ofcource I'm no expert on this, but it's just what I was told. K&N filters do have an effect on the sound and sound level. If you don't like loud exhausts, you might also not like loud intakes.

Here is another small check: Since there was some oil leaking at the rpm and tdc sensor connection, I took it of and placed a new oil ring. But before that I measured the air gap, which should be 0.7 - 0.9 mm according to the manual. But I already measured 0.4 mm without the gaskets, and there was 2 mm of gaskets installed. I know guzzi sometimes like to oversize things, but this seemed not right. So I took some gaskets off and reinstalled all, set to +/- 1 mm, still too much, but had no other gaskets (this was one of the easiest fixex of all). The bike has hardly any misfires now. But I'm not sure if it's because of this fix, cause I also set the air bleed to 1 whole turn and did the whole tps thing and balancing. And summer with temps of 30 deg C still has to come. Anyways, it's a small check, so won't do any harm

OK, those are some things I can easily check (though I won't have the time today). I think the drawing of the eceltronics is what I have. I had an older version with some wires missing (one from the regulator), and it indicated 1999 - 2003. It's without the catalist. i ll let you know what I fine soon. Thanks so far.

Well here 's something weird (in my opinion at least). I measure 13.7 volt at the battery at any rpm. I checked the diodes and they give +/- 350 mV between the yellow and redgreen wires which is OK as I conclude from previous information. I cleaned the contacts of the wires and went for a ride today. I still had to check the new voltage with the cleaned contacts, so during the ride I took a stop and measured still 13.7 volt. Now here it comes. As it was getting dark I also wanted to know if there was enough voltage left when I put the headlights on. So I turned them on, and to my surprise I now measured 14.6 volts. Does anyone knows how that happens? I assume turning on the head lights causes a voltage drop at the refference, making the regulator increase the voltage to the battery. But how does I read a too high a voltage with the headlonghts off? btw, it's a 1999-2003 electric wiring, and looking at it for 30 minutes or so didn't give me any clues. The then again, I don't know too much about electronics

And some more on this forum: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020

You can download some maps here: http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/powercommander_iii_usb.aspx?mk=9&mdl=74&yr=706&pcVersion=411&PartNum=706

Hi, interesting topic. My battery was low yesterday though I had a (small) ride a few days before. I'm not sure whether the battery is loosing charge or whether it's not loading enough. I put it on the loader which indicated 50-75% full. After a few hours loading the battery reads 12,75 V. Just to be sure I checked some points. The alternator seems OK; plenty of Volts at x rpm. When running at 2500+ rpm I read (only) 13.6 Volt at the batetry. Does that indicate the regulator is not working properly? I measured 12,9 V after revving a few times though, and that value drops back to 12,75 in say ten minutes when the engine is turned off. Any ideas anyone?

i 'm not sure 2% more mixture will help. Setting the tps at 150 mV w clossed throttle will not work for every bike. The dealer offset mine at 520 mV when idling at 1100 rpm. maybe this link will help? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16351&st=0&p=175748&hl=position&fromsearch=1entry175748

It sure is the original. Here is a topic about replacement options. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4245\ I have the Odyssey, and it's doing great