jsciullo

This bike is in excellent condition. 12k miles, dealer serviced, garage kept. This Black & Red bike includes: Mistral Classic Mufflers, Chrome Side Stand, FBF H-Pipe, Power Commander, Wilber's Shocks & Springs, Classic Windshield, Square Type Front Engine Guards, Rear Rack w/Grab Handles, Fr & Rr Leather Mud Flaps (trimmed in red). Always taken care of and serviced on time. Need more room in the garage. Located in Columbus, OH (Dublin, OH). Please email me at jsciullo@columbus.rr.com.

I did replace the tranny fluid and rear drive fluid today. The light is still on but the bike shifts much better. Jim

Thanks!!!

I may have posted this previously in the wrong section. Im getting ready to do a change and notice that the book tells me that I need .850L of fluid but others in the "How To" section reference 850cc's. Im going to assume that numbers are the same but are they? I dont want to overfill. Thanks, Jim

I may have posted this previously in the wrong section. Im getting ready to do a change and notice that the book tells me that I need .850L of fluid but others in the "How To" section reference 850cc's. Im going to assume that numbers are the same but are they? I dont want to overfill. Thanks, Jim

Heres what I was able to dig up with a search. I bought one but havent used it yet. Anyone have another alternative? http://www.guzzitech.com/photos/EVBreatherHose.jpg On Guzzitech somebody posted a Ford heater hose that appears to be perfectly curved for the V11EV. It may also fit our bike: http://www.guzzitech.com/EVBreatherHose-Joe_B.html Pictured below is the Goodyear Ford hose #63318 compared to the EV hose Here is the NAPAonline part number and description: Item#: NBH10912 Price: $ 26.79 Attributes: Attributes: Hose - Heater I.D.(s): .62'' x .62'' x .62'' Length: 23.7'' Jim Jim

I wanted to ping the board to see if anyone has any info on Eastern Michigan University. I have a daughter that wants to go there but never heard of the place. Anyone care to comment. Thanks, Jim

About 10k miles or four years old. Time for replacement Im sure but the neutral light issue has been around since day one.

The battery is new as of this spring and I fully charged it on Weds thinking that might be a problem. My tach at idle is around 1100 RPM. Jim

Im going to take your advice and get some contact cleaner. as for the nuetral light it stays on up to around the 5k rpm mark then goes off. Its dim and flickers at the lower rpm and gets stronger as the rpms increase. It never goes to its full brightness however even when Im in neutral. Jim

Doc- To anser your question, the starter always engages but I would classify it as a hard start. Sometimes several trys to get the bike to run without stalling but this bike has always been this way and always starts. I did a couple of things after my last message. I swapped out the 15A fuse for another - same problem. I unplugged the PC3 and same issue. Put the PC3 back in - same problem. I pulled the headlamp relay and replaced it with another relay- same result. Then I moved all the relays around and the lights/tach, etc... all came on worked for a 45 min ride perfectly. Just went down and checked and all is well. So I guess we can say the issue is somewhere within the relays. I dont know if its a bad relay or if by removing and reseating the relays some connection got reconnected or what. The relay tray (I dont know what its called but it holds all the relays) floats a bit and I did reach up under neith it to push the base of the tray and its wires tighter to the relays. Maybe I reconnected something. Given that everything now works I guess we can single out that the relay is NOT the cause. This has happened before where the bike runs fine for a while and then it goes back to this mode. Maybe something is comming loose under the relay tray? Any suggestions on where to look or how to test for a bad relay? Jim PS - Once this is fixed maybe we can move on to my constantly on Neutral light.

Correct. I took it for a ride a few mins ago and now the tach/headlamp/brakelights do not turn on at all. I have a PC3 hooked up to it now. Im going to remove it to see if that might be the culprit. Also, what relay would control the tach/headlamp/brakelights/horn? Im wondering if that might be a problem as well. Jim

DOc- You hit the nail on the head. I didnt notice that the brake lights or horn also didnt work. I dont know if the relay is sealed or not but it was onte OMRONs that were recommended from this list. I checked the condition of the #5 fuse and it looks fine but thats the extent of my electronic no-how. Any suggestions on what I should start checking? Remember now, Im a complete moron with electronics so use words that a moron should understand. Thanks, Jim

Here's a weird one. This has been happening for a number of years now. Sometimes - when I start my bike and turn the key to the start position - the headlamp light up. When I hit the starter the headlamp goes out - the bike starts but the headlamp & the tach do not work. The tach bounces around a little but doesnt go above 1K RPM. After about 20 mins the tach comes on and so does the headlamp. It usually stays on - sometimes, although rare the tach and headlamp shut off and comes on again latter in the ride. Its not usually an issue - unless its dark. What might be causing this? I've replaced relays numerous times and now have the Omicron??? Everything else on the bike works fine when the light/tach goes out. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jim

Does anyone know how you get Power Commander Maps from the GuzziTech page? I have an older PC (serial interface) on my '00 - V11 Sport and want to try out another map (3.03.03 - Tom H's V11 Sport - Open airbox lid w/K&N, stock crossover, Mistral pipes. TL'ed by Rahns Engineering of Abington, MA) but cant seem to find the location of the map on this web page http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-Maps.html. Any suggestions or how can I can I contact Tom. Thanks, Jim