motortouring

Hi Stewgnu, Do you stil have them? Motortouring?

Your right.

As a vehicle dynamics engineer, I must say I did not really see what you did. But, when loosing grip sideways and releasing the brake to find grip again, that is exactly what would happen before the high-sider. He must have found grip on the front end.

Are these still for sale?

motor_techniek_naloop_4.xls

Around 30mm raise of the front would have done the same for geometry, but that is not always possible. Or do you mean that the weight on the front was the essential part of the solution. Interesting point, I did not consider that. We should make a separate topic of this discussion :-) I made an EXCEL sheet that calculated the theoretical values for geometry. Can I share that over here?

A short offset is larger trail. So more stability and less handling. I hope they didn't change to much on that.

And there is Jutta Kleinschmidt, a Dakar Veteran and Champion.

We are a bit off topic, but: Volvo uses Peugeot Diesel engines, good decision.

You might touch a good point here. A car or motorcycle is a machine but it is considered by many users a consumer good. When treated like a machine it has substantial longer life. If you ride an Audi or BMW like a world touring championship competitor, you will need a sponsor for an annual drive train replacement. My Peugeot 306 Break just past the 560.000 with no drive train parts replaced so far. Not a very inspiring car by the way 😀.

It even looks like they have a special ribble part for the throttle assist

This was posted on the MGCN forum. I do have a kind of déjà vu.

I hope this is a very good camouflage :-)

A road version of this Fast Endurance kit would be nice. Also as an aftermarket kit. V7 850 Endurance racer (that is LeMans, isn't it?)

Well, I think, the Guzzi's are in general over-dimensioned (if that is the correct English word). And the use of proven automotive parts, like a a 2kW startermotor (on the old Tonti's) replace durability tests. The large crankshaft bearings and not extreme torque, over-dimensioned parts in the gearbox, make the lower part of the engine block very durable by design. And the top engine part is all very easy to maintain. But the comparison with family affaire is not so bad :-)

I used to work in automotive(4 wheels) aftermarket parts, even before I was riding a Guzzi. It struck me that all parts that we distributed for all brands of vehicles in Europe, were not very usable for the Honda and Suzuki motorcycles that I was riding. Later, when I started riding the LeMans 2 (in 1999, so it was already an "oldy"), I saw all kinds of parts that were considered universal in the stock of this aftermarket distributor on the LeMans. Sparkplugs, contact-breakers(standard for alfa, fiat, marelli), ignition coils, starter motor, revision parts for the generator, headlights. Wiring colors were the same as Fiat, connectors the same, battery was standard(good price)etc etc. The whole machine can be maintained in an agriculture workshop, tolerances are not very critical, tools are mainly standard or easy to make. This machine is a dream for everybody that has basic engineering interest. You get a lot of confirmation that you improve, because things are understandably explained in available manuals, parts are relatively in-expensive and available, and repairs turn out to be successful (or it is easy to do it again). On top of that, parts for newer models are often compatible with older models (and improved). I know it sounds ridiculous, but in the end you come to love each nut and bolt in the machine. Just look at this forum where people talk on the wire thickness of the retainer spring for the shift mechanism, and the little bolt on the jiffy, and the 20mm or 19mm red-frame/black frame discussions and many , many more. That is unique, I enjoy this very much and I am in constant adoration of those that have discovered again new perspectives on parts, types and even nuts and bolts. I love to be part of that.

Then I stick to the daily exercise to keep the limps flexible. I am not going to fund your patents :-)

My side stands is often on the ground in hairpins and a bit longer curves. Are you not afraid of hitting the ground with this big square? By the way, we used to cut a square piece out of a worn tyre and screwed this underneath the side stand to get more surface. (for enduro motorcycles)

Please let us know if Stein Dinse still sells these upper plates.

I think the LSL risers accommodate the small (ca 1mm) pocket. I thought they have this increment (is this the correct word?). https://www.lsl-online.nl/en/detail/2071085/superbike-kit-moto-guzi-moto-guzzi-v11-sport-silver.htm Here a better picture of the parts in the kit.

Yes, I understood this, but if the upper T-clamp has the props, you can extend your search to any fitting upper T-clamp. That will be a lot easier to find. LSL has a template and the local blacksmith/fine-mechanic workshop will be able to drill a few nice holes. Personally, I always like to visit them and bring them a pie next day. :-)

I wonder if a standard triple-clamp doesn't have props in the casting-mold already to support drilling holes for the mounting of standard risers. In that case you could buy the risers from LSL. https://www.lsl-online.nl/nl/detail/2071085/superbike-kit-moto-guzi-moto-guzzi-v11-sport-zilver.htm And you could check at Stein Dinze. It says the product is NML (nicht mehr lieferbar), but it will also be shipped in 1-3 days. https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?language=sc&products_id=55680#prettyPhoto

I agree to this. Before investing large amounts in changing the geometry, I would suggest you use the possibilities to adjust within the current range. I changed from Dunlop (very stable) to conti roadattack 3, this was day and night, just like one of the magazines promised. Further, I followed the advise from this forum to change from 180/55 to 170/60 for the rear tyre. But this last one is only for the long frames. You propably have a 160/60 tyre at the rear.

I have the original Sachs (on a longframe), but that is really far from any speedweave. Either with luggage or without. At what speed is the weave approximately, usually around 140-160 km/hour, isn't it?

I completely understand p6x. Sometimes a minor detail to others turns into a constant obsessive annoyance. At that point I draw the "it's my hobby and it is supposed to cost money" card. Go for it until your satisfied, p6x!