motortouring

That is true. But I understood that a few on this forum where already planning to come to Italy. The link is for the documents to fill-in specifically for Corona and to go into Italy.

And for specific info for inbound travelling to Italy, also for travelling from outside the European Union. https://www.salute.gov.it/portale/nuovocoronavirus/dettaglioContenutiNuovoCoronavirus.jsp?lingua=english&id=5412&area=nuovoCoronavirus&menu=vuoto Be aware of additional restrictions when going home again.

https://www.motoguzzi.com/en_EN/moto-guzzi-world/news-moto-guzzi/gmg-2022/

Like this

A Tenni should have a brown leather seat, isn't it?

We need a TURBO-CHARGER or COMPRESSOR :-)

Hi Jetboy, It is quite a discussion already and I didn't read everything. Your symptoms remind me of a trip with a friend that has his 2001 V11 LM serviced "somewhere". Now I suspect that changing the fuel filter is not always part of the service (to keep things in the middle). So he rides with a too old fuelfilter. This bike has the filter in front(upstream) of the pump and that causes cavitation if the filter is restricting too much. His bike stalled and we tried a lot. Changing relais was a reflex (I always carry 6 with me😳) . No effect. We Che keep the sparks. We took the fuelline of the pressure valve in the return line to see if there was fuel. It did flow after a little hick-up. I am not sure how it should be and if the hick-up is normal, but we refitted the fuelline and the bike started and the engine ran fine again. I do think the filter was part of the reason that the pump did not build up enough pressure. But in fact, this "repair" is a bit of a mystery to me. So maybe one of the experts over here sees some logic.

Wat about nicely litering and loosing some weight from the flywheel. Balancing the crankshaft. Installing the windage tray. And I always think high voltage coils make it run better at high refs. These mods all add to better road usable riding. Verstuurd met Tapatalk

Just to share my observation with my LeMans 2 and 3 (different PHF36 carbs) and the California 2 with VHB30. The california has an old paper air filter. When it gets dirty (7000km+) and i ride full throttle in 5th gear, it starfs a bit on not enough air. Closing the throttle a tiny bit gives it just the extra 5 km/h. This phenomenon fits to a to big main jet. For a touring motorcycle it's okay. It protects the engine for overheating. Especially with the LM3 (850), I reduced the main jet to 125 in order to increase topspeed. It is running a little over 200km/h, which I think is quite alright (almost 8000rpm, redzone). So you could check both a larger or smaller main jet to be sure. Additional anecdote. This is for Super Single race-machines. The engine is right underneath the tank and heats-up the fuel in the tank. This causes a decreasing density of the fuel and thus a decreasing amount of energy/ liter. A racing motorcycle dealer from Amsterdam used an oil-cooler to cool the petrol. This gave him an advantage in the second stage of the race, when others suffered from heated fuel.

Did we have this one already? I have good memories of staying in the Yorkshire Dales, while this beer smoothed our exaggerations and made us heroes in our own adventures.

I also like the cleaned up tail-section. Did you do this yourself or bought a kit for that? (If yes, which one?) And sporty pipes as well! In the Netherlands the fenders have a real function. That is why we would call them mud-guards :-). Verstuurd met Tapatalk

http://motortouring.nl/lm3/pics_201004/LM3_on_the_road.jpg http://motortouring.nl/lm3/lm3_c_01.jpg

About the slipping clutch. I have had slipping clutches in two situations. 1. Full power at 140km/h. Reason: oil on one of the clutch plates from a leaking gearbox or crankshaft bearing 2. At low speed in first gear when leaving a parking. Reason excessive wear of the splined clutch "gear". The plates more or less get stuck on the gear. This last one sounds a bit like your description. As I recall the drive-train of your racer is based on early eighties Tonti (LeMans3). If you have original clutch, it is the one with the bigger trapezoid splines. These gears typically have the behaviour as I mention undr 2. Newer models have other gears. https://www.stein-dinse.biz/Moto-Guzzi/Clutch/New-Version/Clutch-Gear-MG-big-Model-long-spline-version-1-pcs::1083.html You have to change the clutch plates as well as the gear pattern is different. For side cars that have problems with slipping clutches at take off, we tend to use Surflex clutch discs. The grip is higher, but on a solo bike it is biting to much to get a smooth clutch control. https://www.stein-dinse.biz/Moto-Guzzi/Clutch/New-Version/Clutch-disc-MG-big-model-new-version-Surflex::1084.html My 50 cents

Do you know (or have a good hunch) what the essential improvement is?

EICMA 2015

EICMA 2015

Could be but still the underpressure is relatieve low. Verstuurd met Tapatalk

In this forum is a pic of the interior of a breather box http://www.guzziriders.org/lm-breather-box-valve-fix_topic2432_page2.html

I mounted a Agostini breatherbox at my LM2(950cc) and LM3. http://hmb-guzzi.de/Oil-separator-Agostini-LM-1-T3-1000-SP-etc That works fine, even without the valve, although I am not sure if the box has a valve installed after all. Every now and then I clean the inside of the box with diesel or petrol in order to solve the clotery. The problem that I could not fix before the Agostini was the pumping of oil after ca 10-15 minutes of constant 5500-6000 rpm (165-180 km/h). I never tried it at a higher speed, because maintaining 200km/h with a more or less standard LM2 or 3 is difficult. When using the throttle a lot, f ex on a twisty road, I never had a breather problem with the old little breather box, but that also needed serious cleaning to work nicely. I would estimate the total crankcase at a minimum of 10liters. The delta in the volume will not be more than 600ml, so the pressure will be 6% below the outside pressure. That is higher than the vacuum in the manifold when shutting the throttle. Maybe even higher than with open throttle.

Biggest breather tank you can fit in the space ( with an oil seperator if possible ) available with a drain back line and the tank vented via a tube out the back of the bike. Ciao +1 Just make sure oil return is below the level of the oil Yeah, I always hear this, but what is the physics behind it?

Grease them in to protect against rust, come on, you can do it..,. :-)

Bingo in the Netherlands. Thanks Scud and Chuck.