motortouring

Those are not mirrors, they are camera screens. The little tubes on the cylinder covers are the camera's. So it is intended to look at your knees. Good sense of humor those Italians.

Sorry for the late reply, but yes, it is now almost ready for a new modification that allows a wider rear tyre.

Sounds more like clodding in the carter ventilation.

In the V11 Sport: -Engine Kroon 10w60 - Gears Castrol SAF XJ or later synths (75w140) In the California '82: - Engine 10w40 (10 Euro / 5 liter supercheap). These specs are much better than '82 specs. - Gears also the castrol SAF XJ

Here are some historic pictures of the LM III of the avatar. More or less my lifetime project. I am now in the process of removing the lower frame and move the block and gearbox 10mm to the right. The 160/60 R18 rear wheel from Fast Pauls Daytona should then fit better.

Problem is clear now. My rear axle has a M18x1,5 thread were originally is the inbus (inside hexagon). That makes it a bit less standard to fix the axle. Solved now

Hi everybody, I try to remove my rear wheel for a tyre change. According the manual I started with the left side 27 nut. It came loose a bit, but then the axle turned along and I cannot further remove the nut. Is there a stabndard trick to proceed?

It is not the wallet, I used to ride Michelin on all my bikes. And choosing the wrong tyres (or changing too late) has more effect on the wallet,than the Mich's. But recently my tyre-specialist had such an passionate story about the new carcass of the Dunlops. So, I am interested in your opinions. But your right, I think I am gonna try the Dunlops. :-)

Thanks everybody. This gives indeed the impression that tires have all improved. My next choice will be the PR4 or Dunlop Roadsmart. I keep you informed about my experience with them.

They say you can reduce the tire-pressure to 2.0 without loosing the stiffness of the tire and in this way adjust the heating of the tire. This is because of the stiff sidewalls. Would you think this to be possible Scud?

Sorry for stiring up this "tyre-ing" and everlasting discussion Very interesting though, the stuff about changing trail depending on tyre shape. Next weight distribution and spring stiffness and damping come into the equation (and with this rider position). This theory is very easy to feel in practice. Sometimes you can feel the bike is falling in the corner, then the trail is become shorter in the first fase of turning in to the lean-angle. You probably also feel there is a moment that it is difficult to lean further. This is the opposite (trail getting longer). The old Guzzi's with the fixed end-gear climb out of the spring when you re on the throttle again (out of the corner). I always feel the extra handling at this moment (but you do't need it anymore). But, this said: Does anyone have experience with the new Dunlop Roadsmart

And what is the milage (km-stand) of this beauty?

I didnt read everything, but the valve clearance should be": Loosen or unscrew the adjustment screw “D” until you obtain the following backlashes: - Intake valve 0,10 mm; - Exhaust valve 0,15 mm I thought you had 0.05 mm more.

If you want to be sure, you have to cut it in two and count the rings. At the other hand, it might just as good run 300.000km as 200.000km :-)

MartyNZ, I agree with you about, "safe enough to sit on". Our battery was of X-racer used on a Centauro. This battery brand is used a lot and there is no sign on the web about incidents. So it is likely a resistance in a connector of the regulator that lifts the 14.4 Volt to a higher value. The voltage table that you showed is a good way to verify that you are in the good operating area of the LI-Ion battery.

I was discussing the Li-ion battery with the locale battery-supplier. He expressed his worry on the stability of the charging-voltage on a motorcycle. If I understood correctly the LI-ion has (or should have) a sort of protection for to high charging-voltage. And this is not always working well in a classic charging wiring diagram. The PC545 from Odyssey would be his choice for my 2002 V11. The Li-Ion battery is usually build-up with cells of 4.20V/Cell. 3 cells are 12.6Volt and should be charged with 14.6 Volt. Theoretically the motorcycle delivers 14.4 Volt, but this is only a small difference. If the voltage rises the battery protection circuit can switch-off the charging. A higher voltage can also heat-up the battery. In my close area we have had a burning Li-Ion battery and damage to the ECU in the same Centauro. All was adequately covered by the battery -supplier. But still you have only little time to take-out the smoking battery before it starts to burn. On the other hand, there are lots of bikes that do not have this incidents. General Li-Ion background http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries On protecting the Li-Ion http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/bu_304b_making_lithium_ion_safe

I could get them used for EUR 125 wit all fittings and bolts and the max.load sticker removed ;-)

Catrina at the docks of Amsterdam for Davida helmets.

I ran up to central California with overnight gear and a spare *battery* tied to it. I wouldn't worry about that 3kg weight limit too much. Sounds like lawyer speak. It's pretty sturdy. Hear hear, I am planning to ride a 1200 km next week with the rack. Also with travel gear of about 10-15kg. I will keep you informed. No problem :helmet:

I ran up to central California with overnight gear and a spare *battery* tied to it. I wouldn't worry about that 3kg weight limit too much. Sounds like lawyer speak. It's pretty sturdy. Hear hear, I am planning to ride a 1200 km next week with the rack. Also with travel gear of about 10-15kg. I will keep you informed.

I am planning to go tos Scotland next spring. Then there will be a second Burgundy Red V11 :-)

This has become of the avatar :-)

...

The color is burgundy red, it should be produced in 2002, but was used until the end of 2005 by the factory for publicity purposes. It was sold in 2006 to an Italian and then in this last July imported to the Netherlands with 15.000km on the clock. It looks and rides like it is completely new. After 17 years of Tonti's, the gearbox and clutch was the first shocking improvement. But all together it handles much easier as well as the old LeMansII. I was looking for a V11 Sport or a Griso for some time, but actually like the looks of the V11 Sport better. When I have the possibility I post a picture. But I need to upload it first and don't have access to my site from this PC.