Kiwi_Roy

I didn't use a Sigma, I used a Speedhut the sensor was mounted in place of age speedo cable at the gearbox It worked very well I highly recommend the Speedhut line. https://www.speedhut.com

Well, I had a green V11 Sport and I had a Griso for a while, what more could I ask for? Perhaps the V8 racer, it would be fun to roll up for coffee on that.

A 0-100 psi gauge is cheap insurance against under-pressure. As others have said the oil slops to the rear under acceleration exposing the pump suction.

The Go Winkie light is connected to the supply to the ECU Obviously if you dont have 12 Volts to the ECU it won't spark or power up the injectors It was Doc that gave it the name, blame him.

I swear by plain old Vaseline for switch contacts, its what I have been using for at least the last 60 years.

You can actually get access to a significant portion of the fuel on the Right hand side of the tank. The fuel is delivered to the pump from the left hand side of the tank but it returns it to the Right Hand side. I took the return fitting out and extended it up with a 45 at the top side so it would throw the fuel over to the Left Hand side. In theory if the tank is low and you tilt it over to the Left it should take a while to migrate back to the Right.

A stronger coil might lead the manufacturer to use a stronger contact spring, if you look at the specs they have quite a good current rating but always less than the Normally Open contact. If you look at all Carl's Guzzi drawings around that era only the 1999 VII Sport and the 2000 Quota put any significant current through the Normally Closed contact of the Start relay all the rest of the bikes (2000 Bassa, 2000 Jackal, 2002 Nevada, 2002 Stone & 2004 VII Catalytic) only use the Start relay N/C to switch the headlight Relay coil current ~100 milliamps there must have been a reason for that. I know my 1999 would drop as much as 1 Volt between the battery and the Voltage regulator at times (normally ~0.5 Volt) which I blame for destroying the regulator. The charging current goes up exponentially with Voltage, I'm sure there are other bikes that switch the headlight current through the Normally Closed contact but I can't help thinking its a bad idea. IMHO the Voltage reference for the regulator should be as true to the battery Voltage as possible, I always meant to try feeding the regulator reference from one of the lightly loaded ECU relay, I will never get around to doing that now. Measure the battery Positive to the black wire at the regulator before then after wiggling the two relays in their sockets you will see what I mean.

A stronger coil should lead to a better contact, If you look at the specs of a Normally Open contact you will see it has a higher rating than the Normally Closed contact, this would be a function of the contact pressure.

The one on my VII Sport was, If you look at the outside of the case and see large screws holding the pole pieces in place its electro magnet, most of the permanent magnets I have seen are just glued in place. You can barely see the screws in this picture, an impact driver is useful if you have to remove them. As an apprentice we would take the coils out and re-tape them with linen tape, often solves starter problems. (I'm not an auto electrician)

I assume the clean brush holder on the Left is Suzuki while the dirty one on the right is Aermacchi. It looks as though the insulated brush on the Suzuki needs to be relocated to 12 O'clock to make it the same as the Aermacchi, that would change the direction.

Its worth a try but keep the same field arrangement the Suzuki currently has 2 Shunt coils and 2 series coils, the armature will draw as much cauurent as the load calls for. A picture is worth 1000 words.

There are several different ways of wiring a starter motor, most are wired in series because thats a high torque arrangement and will wind up to quite a high speed. Traction motors are normally series type. The Suzuki motor as you describe it is a compound motor, they can develop high torque but don't have such a high speed. The two "Shunt Fields" coils wired from positive to ground will be a higher resistance (over 1 Ohm). The Series fields are usually low, say 0.2 Ohms It sounds like you are thinking of using the Aeromachi armature inside the Suzuki fields in order to have the right gear arrangement, how do you know it will fit? How do you know which way it will rotate. Why don't you try overhauling the Aeromachi starter, it will probably be easier than trying to reverse the Suzuki one, A few pictures might help. Perhaps a wiring sketch. Do you have a document on the Aeromachi starter?

To reverse rotation you must reverse either the current through the armature or through the fields, you seem to understand that It doesn't matter which order the items are in just so long as the current flow is in the right direction.

It might well be seeping through the wires between strands, pretty hard to seal, you sometimes see a dedicated seal with solid wires potted for that reason. On the same note the rotation sensors leak through the body, the transition between the centre steel core and teflon is almost impossible to seal.

If you separate the two joints they must go back the same, I think you should find a paint mark to get the correct orientation.

As soon as the solenoid closes the main contact the Grunt coil is effectively switched out of circuit so all you will see is the holding coil current, It should be higher. Typical holding coil resistance is 1.25 Ohms, (12 Volts / 1.25 Ohms = 9.6 Amps) Assuming you are measuring the current with the starter working hard, it's pulling 150 - 200 Amps pulling the battery Voltage down below 9 Volts, perhaps even as low as 6. If you measure the Voltage across the coil that will back up your current readings. e.g. (9 Volts / 1.25 Ohms = 7.2 Amps) (6 Volts / 1.25 Ohms = 4.8 Amps) Note: While the solenoid is engaging the gear the load on the battery is quite light (<60 Amps) so the Voltage will be almost 12 Volts, its only once the gear is in place the main contact switches power to the motor the load goes over 100 Amps. It takes the solenoid 15 - 50 milliseconds to engage the gear and close the main contact.

Hi Guzziart, I wasn't able to find the wiring diagram on the Electrosport website but I see the ESR531 is a 3 wire regulator whereas the ESG814 is a single phase (2 wire) Stator, If it's working ok, don't worry about it. Your headlight relays are an improvement over the old system, don't change back not only does it eliminate the flakey Voltage reference, i'm sure you notice the headlight is brighter. I don't believe the Electrosport regulator needs grounding, the old Ducati Energia did because there was no wire connecting to battery Negative. The regulator is now sensing the Voltage directly from the battery Technical Article Figure 1 OR from the ignition switch Technical Article Figure 2 I would be more than happy with the battery Voltage you are seeing.

Guzziart, Please post the make and model of your new regulator along with any changes you might have made to the wiring. Have you made any changes to the headlight wiring e.g. a pair of relays fed directly from the battery. The original Voltage reference downstream of the headlight relay is flaky

I have no explanation as to your low current but your meter is not fast enough to measure the initial inrush, its all over in a few milliseconds. Ohms law doesn't lie, try measuring the coil resistance from spade connector to chassis and then calculate 12 / Ohms. Actually you will have trouble measuring Ohms with a multimeter because its less than 1/4 Ohm, I use a method called a "Drop Test", its where you pass a known current through a resistance then measure the Voltage across it, using this method you can measure very low resistances accurately. I have used an instrument that would measure busbar joints down to 1 millionth of an Ohm (yes 0.000,001 Ohms) but it passed 100 Amps through the joint. You could use a headlight bulb e.g 60 Watts in series with the solenoid measure the current through the coil say 5 Amps, the drop would be ~ 1.25 Volt, easily readable with your average multimeter. Remember the heavy coil is in series with the starter armature, its very close to zero resistance. Of course your current may be low because you have too much resistance in series There is something else you could try with your Ammeter, disconnect the main positive lead to the solenoid, now your inrush current will last as long as the spade connector is powered up, because the starter armature will never see +12 Volts it effectively keeps the heavy current (Grunt Coil) in circuit. The 15 Amp fuse will blow in < 1 second so be prepared to replace that with a 20. Now you have a nice stable current into the solenoid then you can measure the Voltage across the coils and calculate the resistance accurately. One thing that will disrupt your reading is if the motor starts to spin, if that happens the motor will develop what is known as Back EMF (the motor generating Voltage), you should hear the motor if that happens. I had to look this up "D'arsonval movement ammeter", I would just call that a moving coil meter, of course the main current must be passing through a shunt. It's very easy to measure current by passing the current through a copper wire and measuring the Millivolt drop with any $10 multimeter., I'm sure I posted something a while back on that. https://ibb.co/3kkcX7P

I changed all the lamps in mine to LED type, they are much easier to see in bright sunlight. The LEDs should outlast the bike so I glued them in place and soldered the wires direct to the lamp, no lamp holder to give trouble. For the low fuel light I kept one of the incandescent lamps in parallel, this biases the thermistor in the low fuel sensor. As for the trapped fuel on the RH side, I took the pressure relief/return fitting out of the tank and modified it with an internal pipe bent at the top end. The returning fuel is now shot over the hump to the LH side, it still traps fuel on the Right but if you lean the bike right over to the left it has a better chance of staying where the pump can get at it. (I know longer own this bike so don't ask for a picture)

Both coils work together, they both turn on the instant the start relay closes. The "holding coil" is wired between the spade connector and chassis so as long as the spade connector is powered up (Start Relay closed) it's drawing current ~10 Amps. On its own the holding coil will never be able to pull the solenoid in. The "grunt coil" is wired between the spade connector and the motor armature, it will draw up to 50 Amps through the armature to chassis so its potentially 4-5 times as strong as the "holding coil" but only while the solenoid is stroking. As soon as the solenoid reaches the end of travel the main contact closes, now you have +12 Volts on both ends of the "grunt coil" so it's effectively switched out of the circuit. The "holding coil" is strong enough to hold the solenoid in place. While the starter is stationary the armature is effectively a short circuit, the current from the "grunt coil" will tend to start it spinning which generates back EMF but it happens so fast <50 milliseconds it doesn't have time to accelerate. If you get the 50 Amps the solenoid is designed to work with it will stroke in 15 milliseconds. (I have measured this with an Oscilloscope). Of course the solenoid operation depends on the bike wiring being able to feed enough current to the coils, the stock wiring will deliver about 30 Amps on a good day, so working at about 60% of starter design. Another thing that chokes the solenoid down is the tiny wire from the Start Relay to the Solenoid spade connector, it needs to be at least one size larger.

That's a Bosch solenoid but they are all similar, all have two coils from 70s to today. The coils on my VII Sport measured 1.25 Ohms and 0.25 Ohms

Ever since a kid I have been pulling stuff apart to see how it works, and why it don't of course. I carried on through my career as an electrician and instrument technician why should I change now LOL https://ibb.co/JdRY2x0

I guess so, it's quite common in DC coils, other times they have a single coil then add resistance once the magnetic circuit is closed. AC coils don't need that because when the magnetic circuit is open the coil draws a lot more current, once the magnetic circuit is complete the reactance (AC resistance) goes up and the current drops. The factory don't seem to be aware of that, they only show one coil and don't allow for the heavy inrush current. As a consequence the wires and fuse is too small.

Do yourself a huge favour and invest in a battery Voltmeter, these are a simple meter powered by the Voltage its measuring (don't start reading until about 6 Volts). They may not be as accurate as your $400 Fluke but will be within a decimal place and its all relative. https://www.amazon.ca/Digital-Display-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B09RHC8F1R/ref=sr_1_10?adgrpid=1354598749278790&hvadid=84662606610933&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=5064&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-84662659551773%3Aloc-32&hydadcr=15054_10414350&keywords=battery%2Bvoltmeter%2Bgauge&qid=1652968443&sr=8-10&th=1 Get the waterproof one with the convex surface, I have seen them for as little as $3, buy one of every colour and save on shipping cost, give them away to your buddies. IMHO the best place to wire a Voltmeter is across the park light, that only comes on when the ignition is on and the circuit is lightly loaded, don't chop into the main loom, just wire it across the bulb in the bucket using a pair of small wires chopped off an old phone charger, it will take all the guesswork out of your charging system. On my non VII bikes I just pinch an 18 gauge sheetmetal bracket between the handlebar clamps, drill the large hole with a step drill and polish with a buff. You won't be able to read the display in bright sunlight but just shield it from the sun with your glove or read it passing through a shady spot.