Kiwi_Roy

No there is lots of spare voltage to overcome resistance in the red wire, the ground on the other hand needs to be low resistance because it’s part of the Voltage reference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I never tried to seal the rear of my gauges on a naked VII, it got ridden in the wet many times, I think Docc is right it's better to let them breath the electronics should be warm enough to prevent condensation. I recommend going with the pulse input speedo, save a few bucks and eliminate that pesky antenna. You have that shaft spinning around in the gearbox anyway, why not make use of it, a magnet and a reed switch is all you need to make a sensor. You do have to calibrate it but that is very easy.

He said it has Roller tappets, way back otherwise Pete would have jumped on it for sure. Congratulations on the new bike, like sex on wheels I reckon I just recently bought one of the 2 valve Grisos, I'm really happy with that. You will be told to grease all the bearings and splines in the back end, there are about 5 needle roller bearings with very little grease from the factory, just what was in the wrapper, It's a breeze to do after the VIIs. A length of 1/2" pipe through the mystery hole and two shop stands to support it while you disassemble the rear end or I built a stand out of lumber that lifts the back end off the ground without a jack.

There are several on here with those. Too bad you didn’t ask first there's a thread on here. They are nice gauges and a great company to deal with.

As to the Voltage reference just take a 6 ft length of 18 gauge and put a FM bullet on the end, plug the black wire into that, the white wire can connect onto the male pin of the M/FM loom connection, now you can move the reference around to various spots. Just be aware if you leave it off the battery will go flat. the engine will stop and won't have enough power to re-start, don't ask me how I know this. I think the drain on the reference is about 12 milliamps. I have wired it directly to the battery to save time when charging quit on a trip, as long as you remember to disconnect it when stopped it's ok. I'm not a fan for adding relays but If you don't have a sidestand switch perhaps use that relay to connect it direct to the battery. The ECU relay would be another with low Voltage drop, not the one that drives the pump. The tail-light circuit is on a separate fuse also. Finally if you want to increase the output Voltage you can calculate the resistance to add in series with the black wire Voltage / 0.012 Ohms e.g. 0.5 Volts / 0.012 = 41 Ohms Really your headlight relay should now be much closer to battery Voltage, you said you have separate H/L relays. I believe if you can solve the flakey reference the regulator should last the bike out. Good Luck

I second the counterweight falling off, it happened to mine as well.

For $300 you can get a new pair of modern Speedhut gauges doing away with the bothersome cable drive, just saying.

I wonder what sort of ECU the EV had, possibly the large P8 The signal level should be compatible but it might have a different No of pulses per revolution and be out by a factor of 2 Is there any way you can try it first?

I have a later version of the schematic, I tested it on the bench. I should point out what I call Battery Voltage on the table is actually the Voltage at the black wire. I suspect Euromotor electrics are quoting the final Voltage, setting + drop (Voltage at Black wire + Voltage drop)

The regulators I have pulled apart seem to be set for 13.8 Volts. Add to that about half a Volt drop through the headlight relay brings it up to ~14.3. If you remove the current through the headlight relay the Voltage drop will also be less and the battery Voltage will drop accordingly. You can measure the Voltage drop if you put your meter from battery Positive to the female connector where the regulator black wire plugs in (with Key On) I used to see anything from 0,5 to 1 Volt on my VII Sport, and it would drop down a bit if I wiggled the headlight relay, The earlier 2001 was particularly bad because it went through the NC start relay as well. I eventually gave up on that flakey reference and went for an after market direct connect regulator. Don't get me wrong I like the Ducati Energia it's so simple, it just suffers from Luigi's poor reference. I always meant to try a wire from the ECU relay to the black wire. That relay is lightly loaded so it should regulate about 13.8 Volts. To increase the Voltage back up all you have to do is add resistance in series with the black wire, about 200 Ohms or a small diode will give you 0.6V

Yes they will just, take the idiot bulb out or fix it. I think that's the same flasher I have on my Eldorado

One thing with LED bulbs in your flashers, if you have just a single idiot light in the dash you might will get crosstalk from one side to the other. The original lamps drew so much current the idiot light had no effect but LEDs draw so little the small bulb will cause the other side to light up. Very easy fixed with a couple of small diodes. diodes LH Flashers --------------->|------| lamp |--------(X)----> chassis RH Flashers --------------->|------| Now the signal can only get half way before it's blocked by the diode. If you want to replace the lamps behind the idiot lights the part No to use is 194-A-90, 194-B-90, 194-R-90, 194-G-90 Letter designates the colour which has to match the bezzel Glue the lamps into the surround Throw away those old rubber lamp-holders, they can cause a short and solder the wires right to the lamp, The lamp sockets Superbright sell don't work well in the confined space. Keep one of the original lamps to solder in parallel with the low fuel light PM me if you have a question

https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle

2 lamps for around $30 Patience, I'll get it right in a minute, for some reason copy/paste doesn't work on this computer Damm typo there somewhere Just google ZG-M11M-H4 Yellow bulb with the fan inside the reflector I put one in my Griso, had to leave out the fancy red trim otherwise a straight swap. I'm not sure if I mentioned a side benefit of LEDs Because they operate on just 9 Volts thereabouts all the way up to 30 or more they compensate for that weak old wiring and give full brightness for example if you only get 75% (9 Volts) to the LED it will still operate at 100% brightness.

Thanks for the response, glad you got the old girl running. It would be easy to install the flywheel in the wrong spot (6 choices), hell I was putting my Ambo back together in my tiny locker space, stood back to admire my work and burst out laughing, I put the heads on backwards.

Yes we are all waiting I was reading back through the thread, I cannot believe it took so long. Question If the engine has been apart how do we know the flywheel timing marks are in the right place? Why don't people just watch for valves rocking at TDC, thats a foolproof way of checking the valve timing? Did anyone ever tell him what the "Go Winkie light is? A light on the fuel pump would tell us that the timing sensor is working.

I haven't read every post on this thread but one advantage of LEDs is they have an onboard regulator set to about 9 Volts so if your wiring is a bit wimpy the lamp just allows for that. I'm trying to find the lamp I used in my Griso, the fan is inside the reflector below the light source, they were cheap on fleabay like $30 a pair.

As I said just down the road. Sent from my shoe phone!

It's a pity Knight Design don't have another way of indexing their parts, I'm sure they make something that could be repurposed. The OEM brake lever was nothing to write home about, I was lucky to get a Joe Kenny for mine. Since you are just down the road, do they have a storefront?

The neutral light is not working so the bike doesn't know it's in neutral Put the stand down, i'm not in Neutral so stop the bike, simple as that. It could be aa loose wire or the internal switch which is a simple brass contact that makes contact with the gear selector grounding it. Use a jumper to ground the terminal on the gearbox, it should turn on the Neutral light

Gmc28 asked .................. The toe peg was by Knight Design also, if you Google their site you will see it. It's a family run business out of Oregon I bought one for each side but really the gearshift can be adjusted down. http://www.knightdesignllc.com

Probably when they changed the start relay wiring to put it through the ignition switch 2003 I think. Sent from my shoe phone!

I think your Voltage regulator must be an after market direct connected type otherwise you would be having flat battery problems by now. You have never said if the headlight is working, does it turn off while cranking? Over here the headlight is connected to turn off while the starter is engaged and the tach, horns etc are also off the normally closed Start relay contact. I suspect your problem is in one of the first two relays, particularly the Start relay. If you have all 5 relays the same 5 pin variety take the first two and swap them for the rear two, see if that improves things See if the bike runs without the middle relay, usually by now the stand switch has been shorted out so that is superfluous.

Emry, I think we are saying much the same thing, You are saying the horn is pulling so much current its pulling the Voltage down I'm saying there's so much resistance it cannot support the horn current. Either way the horn is a problem the owner must fix Yes, have a good New Year Cheers

What happens, it doesn't work very well, not a good design is it? The horns do pull a lot of current, that's why they really need a relay and dedicated supply to work properly. I was simply pointing out you are not going to pull the battery down, its too powerful to be effected by anything that will pass through a 15 Amp fuse, The normally closed contact of the start relay is a weak point, it is only held closed by a weak spring whereas the normally open is held by a relatively strong electro-magnet. There are two relay contacts in series on this model. n/c Start and n/o Headlight I know from owning a similar bike that the headlight circuit is weak, I would get between 0.6 and 1 Volt drop at the Voltage regulator thats with the 4 Amps the headlight draws 0.15 - 0.25 Ohms Much of the resistance is in the relay base, wiggle the relays around a bit and the Voltage drop would reduce. I suspect the bike in question has even more Voltage drop, that's why the tach drops down when the horn is pressed, the headlight will be dimming as well. Battery Voltage will be all over the map if it still has the OEM style regulator. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif I doubt this bike will ever suffer from Startus Interuptus though, notice how the start relay is fed direct from the battery, Not through the ignition switch and all those connectors like the later models I'm not sure where they took a step backwards, 2002-2003 sometime http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif Since we are talking Ohms Law, what happens when you try to pass 40+ Amps thru all that spaghetti? The starter solenoid has 2 coils in parallel 1.05 Ohms and 0.25 Ohms