Kiwi_Roy

The regulators I have dissected are set at 13.8 Volts, the bike picks up another ~0.5 through drop in the headlight relay, more if it's an earlier one because the headlight relay was fed through the start relay. Something to try is unplug the male/female connector and turn it so only the black regulator wire is connected, if the warning light still comes On it's a short to chassis in its wiring. IMHO the light is pretty useless as it will only work if the regulator is ok Sent from my shoe phone!

Wow, I love what you have done with your bike. Welcome to the forum.

I read that as "If you drag one more motorcycle home I'm leaving" LOL

I would ditch the power commander, those wer ok as a stop gap measure before we got Guzzidiag. I went with a MyECU kit so I could make adjustments but now I'm thinking of changing back to stock

Buy the red bike, a nice 72 Eldorado if I'm not mistaken, loads of fun

I used a spot of JBQuick to check mine I made sure there was a tooth lined up and bolted the sensor in place. The epoxy won't stick to the gear because it's oily. Left it to harden for a few minutes. I found it next to impossible to measure with calipers subtracting probe length from hole depth. Of course you can use feelers but you have to remove the timing cover for that. I may be wrong but I think the ECU looks for the gap in the phonic wheel (tooth missing) then counts teeth from there to know when to spark etc. so it would seem to follow if it misses another pulse through wrong gap or bad sensor it must really throw it out. My bike has always had the tendency to cough and stall at idle if I have it set too low. We need to do some research on the Fiat part Number, I'm sure the same sensor is used in others as well, it's likely a Marrelli part. I have been lurking on an English site lately, they seem to have had a number of them go bad

If you think the ECU might be switching off then look for that. A small lamp e.g. 12 Volt LED connected to the wire that feeds Pump, Coils and Injectors would turn Off. The easiest place to access that wire is pin 87 of relay 5. Tape the lamp to the bars where you can see it safely, next time it plays up you have the answer plain and simple. I'm sure I suggested before monitoring the ECU input (petcock fuse or relay 4 coil). You could also monitor the TPS Voltage with a very simple circuit and an LED

The current will be hard to measure it's not a smooth DC but a series of half wave pulses at high frequency and I suspect 35-40 Amps in magnitude that's why I suggested eliminating the alternator by pulling the 30 Amp fuse to let the bike run on battery alone for a few minutes. The cam sensor is a very simple device, just a coil around a magnet 680 Ohms, as the teeth of the wheel pass each one disturbs the field a little bit to cause a spike in the coil If it had an intermittent open circuit it would drop out the power to coils, injectors and the pump and of course the ignition could get all out of sync since the ECU counts the pulses from the sensor starting at the missing tooth to know when to fire. Lately I have been reading of a number of failures in the sensor, I think it might be wise to have a spare since it would leave you stranded. Apparently it's also used by Fiat although I don't know for what model. An easy way to gap it is stick something like a blob of JB Quick or wax on the tip, install it then take it out again and measure the blob. An air gap 0.7 to 0.9mm according to the WS manual.

Eliminate the regulator next time it's spluttering by unplugging fuse 3 Don't leave it out too long though or battery will go flat. Sent from my shoe phone!

If the fuel filter gets plugged off the pressure ramps up from 45 to about 70 psi then it gets noisy, I had this on an EV with a rusty steel tank but I can't imagine what would block the filter on a Nylon tank. It would also fix itself when stopped, I figure some of the rust would drop off the surface leaving a bit of a path for a while but soon came back. No need to replace the filter just take it off and back flush this will get most of it out and let you see what the problem was. On the EV it was followed shortly after by a loss of power on the hills as the injectors were getting starved.

When you press start it puts 12 Volts on both coils, this passes 10 Amps through one but 30-40 Amps through the other. When the main contacts close it puts 12 Volt on the other end of the heavy current coil so it drops to zero Amps. If the main contacts don't close or loose main lead the 15 A fuse will pop in about 1/2 second, a 20 A will last slightly longer. An oxidized battery terminal would also cause the fuse to blow. By improving the wiring you increase the current. There's a lot going on in that innocent looking solenoid.

JRD, thanks for the feedback It's interesting you should find it necessary to increase the wire size but I can see why. I calculated that the Valeo starter solenoid should draw 50 Amps inrush at 12 Volts but in fact it's draws well under 40 Assuming you have the Startus Interuptus fix this would be due to the wire gauge and resistance in the relay and base along with the fuse resistance. I don't have figures for 18 gauge but between 14 and 16 it's about half. 3 feet of #16 would drop around 0.5 V at 40 Amps 3 feet of #14 would drop around 0.36 V at 40 Amps # 18 is probably closer to 1 Volt Any Guzzi after 2002 comes out of the factory with the Start relay wired through the ignition switch (including the 2008 Norge), this in my opinion is crazy, I wonder how much this has hurt Guzzi in lost repeat sales over the years. I still maintain the factory don't have a clue as to how the starter works. With the fix the inrush current will be more like 40 Amps so a 20 Amp fuse is appropriate.

And the TPS is very easy to check with a meter, just tap into the wire with a sewing pin and connect the other meter lead to chassis. My manual shows the slider connected to pin 1 If you hold the plug so you are looking into the sockets with the catch at the bottom pin one is lower left If you want to make a more permanent arrangement bare a little bit of insulation and solder a short wire to it ending with a blue insulated connector, they are just the right size for a meter probe.

M.A.W. is in South America he probably has the only Guzzi in the country and doesn't have access to all the parts suppliers like we do. But he may have the worlds cheapest gas.

Guzzi2Go, The Voltage regulator senses the Voltage on it's black wire and decides if the battery needs charging based on that. The problem is not connected to the battery Voltage directly, its connected to the headlight feed after the relay at a point half way along the tank. A small red/black wire is soldered to the headlight feed and the female bullet socket of the Male Female connector. On the bikes before 2000 the headlight relay is also in series with the start relay 87a contact. Check your bike to see how much Voltage it drops, with the key On and headlight On measure the Voltage from battery positive to the red/black socket the regulator plugs into. I have seen mine vary from 0.5 to 1 Volt mainly caused by the relays and sockets. If your bike has been modified by adding headlight relays powered directly from the battery the drop will be very low. BTW this is why you shouldn't ride with the headlight fuse pulled, the charging will not work. If you have an after market direct connect regulator ignore all this.

The Go Winkie can flash for several reasons Let's be clear it's normally On with the key On, goes out with a fault, it's not magic it won't show every fault just a bunch that will shut you down. Earlier Bikes up to 2002 I think http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif Loose or broken wire Blown fuse 4 Ignition switch Bad sidestand relay Sidestand or Neutral switch Kill switch I am sure there are other reasons, the thing is the flashing light allows you to quickly zoom in on the problem, as you are scratching around sooner or later you will touch something that makes it better or worse. I've only had mine flicker twice, both times it was on about half brightness and flickering caused by the stand switch sizzling away it was so obvious the switch was at fault just touching it caused an improvement. If you look back at my earlier post you can see I have a wire stuffed into the relay socket to short the switch out. After 2002 http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif Pretty much the same except now the solenoid is fed through the switch, I'm pretty sure you would see a big dip in the light in a case of Startus Interuptus or even a weak battery.

Take a close look at this schematic http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif Take a pencil and draw a line down the left hand side of the ECU and across the bottom of items 55,54,53,52,51,50 and then up around the bottom of Fuse 1 and 2 How many wires did you cross? Only three, what do they do? The first one at connector 58 is just the signal to the Tach, it could be left off and the only thing is the tach would stop working. The third one is battery positive to Fuse 1 and 2, obviously that's important but very easy to check. The second one is the only one of any significance it tells the ECU to turn On, if that one is alive and you have 2 good relays chances are the bike will run. Wouldn't it be handy to know if it's alive or not? So what am I getting at?

If I was to buy another, it would be brighter than 3000 lumen. Not enough to melt the road seal, but enough to stun possums. : You would have to be a kiwi to appreciate that LOL Sent from my shoe phone!

This is "a special place for such nonsense"

www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle There bulb finder goes back to 96 for the Guzzis If you click on each of the selections it suggests an LED replacement They list a H4-HLV4-M fan-less headlight bulb for the VII Sport, anyone try it? One nice thing about LED headlights they only need 9 Volts to operate at full brightness, you can afford to lose a Volt or two in the wiring with no ill effect They have a 15% off Fathers Day sale at the moment The type 194-x-90 is a great replacement for the idiot lights, just glue it in place and solder wires directly to the lamp Substitute x with the letter for colour to match the bezel. There are a couple of little changes you have to make to the dash wiring You will need to add some resistance in the fuel level lamp, best done by using one of the old incandescent ones in parallel and if you only have one idiot for the flashers add a couple of diodes to prevent a cross feed. Replace the flasher unit to run LEDs in the indicators.

It also includes the Voltage drop in the headlight circuit which can vary quite a bit.

The ignition switch is easy Disconnect battery Negative for safety Look up from under the head-stock Remove the two Phillips screws toward the rear of switch and the switch block comes off in your hand Loosen the clips and remove the back. Loosen the odd clip and tilt out the white plate Wipe off the old grease Replace with fresh Vaseline Put back together Try to fix the wires to the back cover so they aren't able to flex near the solder joints or they will snap off in no time. I don't think it's possible to put the switch back together incorrectly. I see you are using Lanolin, I'm kind of curious about that, I have used Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly) for the last 50 years, perhaps Lanolin has some advantage? Neither grease is a conductor they lubricate to stop the parts wearing out and stop oxidation

Yes the fuel pump not priming is a key, makes me suspect the ECU is not getting power, the pump should run for about 2 seconds every time you turn the key On or cycle the kill switch, it does this based strictly on time independent of any sensors. If you have an electric petcock the fuse for that is a great spot to check, a bad sidestand switch will result in low or erratic Voltage there. They are very likely to fail. The sidestand switch is normally bypassed when the bike is in neutral so if it starts in Neutral and stops as soon as you select a gear bingo! The stand can be bypassed simply by pulling the relay and stuffing a wire into the 30 and 87 contacts, some other models use 30 and 87a but its obvious by looking into the relay base. Note: If you bypass the stand switch this relay serves no purpose whatsoever since you now have the contacts shorted out. I suspect your 2003 doesn't have a petcock so you need to tap into the wire going to the ECU relay, I have suggested adding a 12 Volt LED to the relay itself between 86+ & 85- (basically a "Go Winkie Light") Update Refer to Carl Allison drawing for the 2004 VII Sport Catalytic, http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif You can see that the Stand switch (40) is in parallel with the 30 & 87 contacts of the stand Relay (15) Why Guzzi call it the Stand relay is beyond me, IMHO it should be called Neutral relay BTW, there may be some differences between the Nth American and European wiring, but I suspect not too much.

Any time the tach stops working chances are the bikes not charging either because they both share the headlight relay for a supply. Sent from my shoe phone!

As Marty says check the high tension leads as follows Pull the caps off the plugs and measure resistance to chassis, should read about 8,000 Ohms I think. Whatever it reads should be the same on both sides. This checks the caps leads and coils in one go.I see you have done that already Don't discount bad plugs I have seen a couple of times where the relay bases look just fine but a connector hasn't clicked in properly, when the relay is inserted it makes intermittent contact, easy to check just push on each one with a small tool. One time when I had a bad regulator the bike would rev up, cut out, slow down a bit and repeat in a pretty consistent cycle but idled and low revs just fine. I figured the ECU was cutting out on over Voltage to protect itself.