Kiwi_Roy

Mitsubishi certainly have a good reputation. But your starter looks ok from what I can see Refresh that grease in the planetary gearbox then put it back together Test it out with 12 Volts. If you don't have a vice just put it on the floor and put your foot on itclip the negative jumper cable to the flange then touch the positive to the short jumper between solenoid and motor. That's applying Voltage directly across the motor. If that works next clip the positive lead to the solenoid where the Guzzi battery normally connects. With a short length of wire jumper between the solenoid trigger terminal and Positive.

Yes the SAE connector is much more convenient especially if you have several bikes and a car and only one charger, just have them hanging out so there's no need to remove covers or seat. The 10 Amp fuse will pop if you try to jumper (when cranking) the bike through it however. In true Guzzi style I found 2ft SAE extension cables, cut them in half, (the colours are odd on one half)

No doubt, I'm not disputing what you say, fitting the rubbers between the throttle bodies and pods removed a flat spot mid range on my bike. Pods attached directly to the throttle bodies look nice but they don't perform well. I have since tossed the pods because they were getting a little ratty and re-fitted the air box etc The PO removed the intake snorkles and ran with an open top, do they make a difference also?

I reckon what makes the stock air-box run so good is the intake rubbers between the throttle body and air-box These are like Velocity stacks. I used these to extend my pods and it removed the flat spot.

No, it sounds like the switch in the gearbox down by the starter, a brass strip that touches a bump on the shift drum. Try shorting the bolt on the gearbox to chassis (ground), should make the neutral light turn On

There's a company in Germany selling an after market regulator model DC-003 I suspect the wiring of this regulator may cause a short in the headlight circuit. If anyone has bought one of these please get in touch Cheers Roy

Why would you use battery clips on a bike, too easy to short out. I added a short lead with un-fused m/fm bullet connector on each bike to match the one on the charger. Why un-fused? It's also a convenient place to jump the battery from or to another bike, the fuse would pop I like to camp and its a handy place to plug in any cell chargers, heated gear etc

I bought s MyECU before Guzidiag was available and came up with the idea of tweaking the AFR while riding by applying an offset +/- 100 mV to the TPS Voltage thinking I would then be able to make a map change. I was surprised how little effect the TPS Voltage had on the AFR. I often puzzled over that. Sent from my shoe phone!

I have seen mine as high as 1.0 Volts it's normally ~0.6 Sent from my shoe phone!

I'm always miss reading numbers isn't there a name for that Zgukrakr91m113775 is on the sticker in manual Sent from my shoe phone!

Unplug the switch that would eliminate it as the redundant source. It must come through the ignition and I don't see it going through the start relay Sent from my shoe phone!

Before switching try adding a relay in the bucket to bypass the tiny wires to the bar switch, makes a huge difference

If you install LED turn signals and find all four flash at once it's the little dash light cross connecting left and right, easy fixed by adding a pair of diodes and connecting one side of the lamp to chassis (black wire) Left----->|-------\ |--------- Lamp ---------Chassis Right --->|------/

The bezel unscrewing is a surprise, so that's how they are able to re-do the face so cheaply. It's a microprocessor / stepper motor drive just a matter of selecting the right No of pulses using the pushbutton provided then you can unplug the button. I know, it's a man thing but you'll just have to read the instructions

No I would use the battery and a lamp if on the bike, I use the power supply when working on the bench Which brings me to another topic, I have an old Sears battery drill that requires 12 Volts, the battery gave out years ago but it works great clipped to the bike battery.

When I'm playing with stuff I power it from a current limited bench power supply set to about twice the current I need that way it's hard to damage anything. As an apprentice we had a 100 Watt 230 Volt lamp connected to a pair of probes, it was great for powering up small loads but a bit nasty if you accidentally made personal contact When you are working with a motorcycle battery you have a significant source of energy, it can do lots of damage if it gets shorted out. I like to use a bulb in series with the battery. When the lamp is cold it has almost no Voltage drop so will provide 12 Volts to the load but if you create a short the lamp lights up and the Voltage drops to next to nothing. Something like the Speedhut gauges could be powered through a tail light bulb, for heavier loads go to a headlight bulb or one with both filaments in parallel. At the very least you should have an in-line fuse.

Don't feel so bad, I've done it too, what went wrong? Sent from my shoe phone!

On the later VII the solenoid current passes through the switch that severely restricts the solenoid's ability to draw the starter into mesh. I did a test on an EV with a clean switch bypassing the switch halved the time to engage Sent from my shoe phone!

The relays are a standard format used by many autos. Clean your ignition switch if you haven't done that in 5 years, lube with Vaseline Sent from my shoe phone!

Are you sure it's the starter solenoid, not just the relay as in Startus Interuptus? You can always check the starter with a hot wire the solenoid from the solenoid trigger terminal to battery positive bypassing the Ignition switch and other wiring. Bike in neutral of course!

I extended mine up near the headstock where it stays cool, I left it there when I ditched the pods and put the airbox back. I cut it apart and soldered the sensor to a pair of wires from a wall wort. You could also use a new sensor from Digikey, send me your postal address in a PM and I'll send you one. Or just put a fixed resistor close to the temperature you ride at. This is the oil sensor but the resistance v/s temperature is the same. 3,000 Ohms for 25 degrees C

The magnets sometimes come unglued from the case that jambs up the works, the assembly is not very complicated. Pull it apart you might see something easily fixed I am really interested to see what you find. If all else fails you can get a new one. http://www.harpermoto.com/starter-motor-valeo.html I would avoid cheap Chinese knock offs

One more thought, I'm having a hard time believing the starter which was working back in your post No 1 has quit Are you measuring 12.66 Volts at the starter with reference to the battery negative terminal or the chassis Please connect the negative probe of the meter to a bolt on the engine or gearbox that is not used by other ground wires That way we will get the true Voltage across the starter motor itself from input terminal to case. From your post yesterday "I have not put vaseline on the battery leads yet so will do that next" Most owners have a hard time understanding the importance of greasing the battery terminals, you can get away with it for years sometimes then suddenly no start, I have seen a battery disconnect itself in a couple of weeks. I helped my riding buddy load his Kawasaki into the back of his truck and drag it home when it happened. Scrape the lead posts so you see the bright metal then smear them with Vaseline, this keeps the Oxygen away.

Ok seems like you will have to take a look inside at 12.66 I don't think its pulling any current, a stuck brush or something perhaps. I have to go out now so just take it apart and lay it out on the bench in order or lake lots of pictures.

Measure the volts on the starter terminal now the large one below the solenoid if it goes +8 or higher you may have a problem in the starter. Sent from my shoe phone!