Kiwi_Roy

I bought an EV in Denver and rode it back to BC, next trip the front bearing made a squark. Dry as a bone inside. I had to ride another 60 miles like that, so I dribbled a bit of oil into the bearing with a straw.

Since they are unobtainable keep the old one, I'm sure someone here can sleeve it, perhaps to use some readily available parts.

Yea! Sent from my shoe phone!

To empty out the gearbox is not such a difficult job and I'm sure you have lots of fine welders with the difficulty of importing spares.

Too Rich,what would cause that? Leaking injector, they would both have to leak Can you borrow a pair ECU holding them open too long Temperature sensor showing cold - I think you said you measured those TPS way off - measure mV at idle, loosen it off and try it all over, it may run better at some point Bad map This can happen if a download goes wrong, ask me how I know Any others? Fuel pressure too high, forces more fuel through per opening time Regulator not plumbed right making the pump relieve at 75 psi not 45 This would show as a high current, measure Amps on relay 5 base 30 to 87 with the key Off (pump will run) You say too rich based on what. exhaust? Something else to try Pull off each plug cap and measure resistance from cap to chassis, both sides should be the same, I'm guessing around 8K Ohms

I can see a pair of 3-1/4" Speedhuts on the horizon. Save some money and get a pulse input speedo Eagles on the front, reset button at the back I'll make you a pulser.

SP838 Yes, if you short out the side-stand contacts you have also shorted out the relay contacts 30 - 87 the relay is completely useless, does nothing, perhaps re-purpose it as a horn relay, use some decent size wire on the contacts though, tiny is ok from the button to coil. It should be called the Neutral relay, it's operated by the neutral switch (called the Idle switch on some schematics) not the stand switch. I have always been a bit hesitant to modify the loom because how do you document the changes for the next owner, he inherits a bike with no schematic and tears his hair out. Make a photocopy of the comic and attach it to the manual.

I'm guessing the horns draw about 5 amps but that's not the issue you need a low impedance source to really make the horns respond. It's like a speaker after all. The EV comes with a horn relay as standard , makes sort of a squeak but wiring my own relay made the horns twice as loud, sort of like a Startus Interuptus fix for the horns. Try it with a length of wire from the battery, you will see what sort of improvement you get, decide then if it's worth while. The pair of Fiaams come with a relay.

MartyNZ says you need 12 Volts, that gave me a thought, suppose there is something on your bike limiting the amount of current available to make opening unreliable, Is fuse 5 in good order / clips tight?, measure the voltage on the red/black wire (relay 5 87) while the pump is running. It's something simple I'm sure. Good ground on the ECU?, wire from 23 & 24 to battery negative, that, pulls the injector open by grounding one side. Anything sound unusual while the pump primes? Might be time to measure the pressure, the manual I linked shows how. One thing the manual shows incorrectly is a tube on the regulator reference to the manifold DONT DO THAT. I think that must have been an early idea. The ECU map allows for pressure changes. BTW the injectors put out the same amount of fuel no matter what the manifold pressure , they operate at what's called "choked flow", downstream pressure has no effect. That's how they can calculate fuel consumption on the later bikes, just by injector open time.

The warning about only using 6 Volts is straight from the Magneti Marelli manual, I don't understand why. True, the ECU is 12 Volts but only for milliseconds at the time, they may be worried that someone leaves it on for 10 minutes, 12 Watts may burn out such a small coil. BTW, I found the Fuel Injector manual again, download it as a pdf while it's available. www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf

I copied this out of the injector manual, did you manage to find it on line (PM sent) Injectors The injectors control the amount of fuel delivered to the engine. The injector is an ON-OFF valve. It has just two operating modes, open or closed. The injector consists of a shell and a pin forming part of the magnetic armature. This pin is pressed up against its seat by a spiral spring whose load is determined by an adjustable push ring. The winding is housed in the rear part of the casing while the injector nose is at the front (seal seating and pin guide). The control impulses from the computer create a magnetic field which attracts the armature and thus opens the injector. The amount of fuel injected depends solely on the amount of time the injector is open, assuming constant fuel viscosity and density, and constant pressure differential. This time is established by the computer depending on the engine’s operating environment. When the fuel pressure is in the range of 34-40 psi, the jet breaks into a spray as soon as it leaves the nozzle and forms an arc of approximately 30°. Resistance value: 12Ω. If you want to test the injector electrically, apply a maximum of 6 volts for an extremely short period of time.

May we ask how you cleaned them? Perhaps you need some new ones. I think you checked the polarity on the pump. Try my suggestion of sucking the fuel out of a can to check there's fuel flow, just cause it to prime a few times see if it sucks the level down. Here's how you can make a meter shunt to read the current with a millivolt meter.

Horn Relays as per Docc is a great idea. I was really impressed by the Fiaam horns that came with my California II, I couldn't find the exact ones but I found a pair of Fiaam Freeway Blasters, a Hi and Lo tone ~$35 from Canadian tire stores, they are super loud if you use the relay supplied and a decent wire from the battery. Some Guzzis eg the EV come with a horn relay but the tiny wires strangle the horns. Make sure you mount them so they are self draining,

Is it possible to cross the connectors to the injectors? It would probably still run but might - I dunno Did you set the timing sensor gap to allow for the new "O" ring It's not possible to see fuel returning from the pressure regulator but if you pull the fuel line off the petcock and dip it in a tin of gas it should suck it empty in a few seconds proving the fuel must be returning to tank. http://www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf The link is broken to this manual, it's getting harder and harder to find, we need it on this site Docc? Here's what the manual says about the pump Delivery: 26.5 gal/hour at 44 psi with 12V power supply. The pump draws about 4.5 amps. If you put the wires on backwards the pump will run backwards, who knows if it will pump properly - -check the polarity Measure the current draw, take out relay 5 and put an ammeter between 30 and 87, the pump will run with the key Off. With no power to the ECU only the pump will draw current, anything different from 4.5 Amps might point to it running backwards or over pressure, from memory it draws about 9 Amps when it's relieving at 70 psi.

There are lots of soldered joints in the loom, everywhere you see two wires Tee together on the schematic chances are if you open the loom you will find wires twisted together and soldered very well and taped up. I agree with Chuck though soldered on lugs the wires will break with any vibration or movement, for example the wires in the ignition switch, they need to be immobilized by attaching to the back cover.

I'm a fan of using LEDs in the dash, I like being able to see them in bright sunlight. Sent from my shoe phone!

You mention black smoke, perhaps it's too rich what could cause that? Excess fuel pressure perhaps, are you sure you have the pressure regulator plumbed correctly? If the regulator is blocked off the pressure goes from 40+ to over 70 also makes the pump extra noisy. You didn't by chance put a hose on the regulator vent (small spigot sticking out) did you? With the throttle closed the TPS Voltage should be around 400 mV from memory, perhaps you could loosen it off and try moving it back and forth to see if you can get it to run. It could also be starving for fuel at anything over idle but I don't know why, try the old fuel filter back on. I had an EV with the filter completely plugged, it would start ok but had no power. Unfortunately with the in tank regulator it's not possible to see the fuel returning to the tank, it should be a full pipe, I think 5-10 gallons per minute. Google the Efiman document it's a gold mine of information regarding the fuel injection even though it's written for a P8 it still applies. That's all the ideas I have.

As Docc says try cleaning the ignition switch, just remove the two Phillips screws from below to release the switch block Remove the back and tilt out the white plate, wipe all the old grease from the contacts and replace it with fresh Vaseline. When you put the switch back together try to fasten the cable to the back cover so the wires are unable to twist inside or they will break off. To test just the starter run a temporary wire from the spade connector on the solenoid and touch it on battery Positive Make sure the bike is in Neutral and hold the clutch in for good measure or you will launch it.

Then obviously I am wrong about the Voltage drop adding to the regulator Voltage. I did some testing on the bench and found the regulator stopped firing the regulator rectifiers at 13.8 Volts and assumed thats what it would charge too. Yes I estimated my headlight was about 20% brighter.

I wonder if the TPS is working, just measure the Voltage to chassis and make sure it's ramping up to about 4.5 Volts with the throttle opening.\, do this with the key On but not running. Another thing I would do is make sure relay 5 is turning On and staying on while cranking. (is the fuel pump and coils powered up? Is the timing sensor getting pulses) A test light connected from the 87 pin of relay 5 to chassis should stay On as long as the motor is turning but will go Off when it stalls and the timing sensor is not getting pulses. It's probably not electrical, but that's the easiest to eliminate.

Yes there is a Hall Effect TPS, I bought a Honeywell one a few years back, it was a little on the large side but there are smaller ones now that should work, I will see if I can locate one. Oh I see I already did on page 1, here's another http://www.vishay.com/docs/57103/981he.pdf Ok went downstairs and took the TPS Off, I have a PF3C/00 2240BE FROM Magnetti Marreli It turns CCW and is spring loaded to spring back CW So far I have the part No as 98H1E Basic part No 3 Spring return CW A 1% 1 90 degrees Z Custom, we need the 3 pin plug, anyone know the name for those? Otherwise we could wire the leads in B Analog CCW 8H00 Hollow shaft I'll send Vishay a note tomorrow and see if I can nail it down, I'm sure they can cross reference the MM part No

If it's a relay dropping out there's an easy way to prove/disprove that. A small lamp one side grounded to the bars, the other side to a small gauge wire wrapped around the 87 pin of relay 5 If it flickers there move it to the coil of relay 4 etc.

Yes skinny blades on 85,86 & 87a is standard if you look at the sockets they won't take a full size pin 85 & 86 are the coil connections only pass about 100 milliamps

That's interesting, I thought it would drop the battery down a bit Would you mind measuring the Voltage drop from battery + to the regulators black wire, just unplug it enough to get the meter probe on it. With no load on the headlight relay I think charging should be more reliable. WARNING, I'm going to wander off topic a bit My EV (very similar wiring) stopped charging altogether on a trip, would barely crank. I didn't have time to troubleshoot it so I took a hot wire from the battery and wrapped it around the pin for the regulator's black wire so I knew it was getting a good reference. A bump start got me going and I tried cranking next time I came to a hill, the charging was obviously working again. In hindsight I think I must have had a faulty Headlight relay. You can actually get a VII home without a regulator (I had to do this when I first got mine), a large diode or bridge rectifier will charge the battery but you have to keep the revs down or it overcharges and the ECU cuts out. On that note if the regulator were to quit it still has at least one good diode, ground one yellow wire from the alternator, connect the other to both yellows at the regulator and it should produce half wave DC out the red wire, no need for the reference connection.

Sorry Docc, are you saying you have removed your headlight from the headlight relay? I think Guzzi allowed for the Voltage drop to boost the Voltage to 14+ Without the headlight Voltage drop you can boost it up by creating an artificial drop in the black wire. Sent from my shoe phone!