Kiwi_Roy

That's neat, I have been meaning to do that to mine, I think I have up to 5 wires on the battery terminals. I also like your re-located flasher.

I must admit I had similar thoughts initially but really the guzzi is a lot more user friendly than some of the high powered sports bikes young guys and girls start out on these days. Sure it would be nice to go off road on a dirtbike in the meantime but I never did. Anyone here in Cdoggers area who could take him out?

Did he take you for a ride on the back at least? Well done Sent from my shoe phone!

We have to get FAA approved now Nice soldering. I know what Chuck means, when I used to work on railway signals you weren't allowed to use any sort of a lug.

What are the 3 bare terminals Docc? Your VII looks totally different under the seat than mine. HRN and the silver thingame? Sent from my shoe phone!

That big, It might be able to double as a kick stand. Line is usually the supply which is the alternator in this case but I doubt it matters at all.

I just loved watching the talking heads on CNN trying to explain away how they got it so wrong, again!

With all the connectors melting there must be some serious current spikes When I get a chance I will take some measurements with my oscilloscope You guys seem to have it covered with Marty's pink auto fuse Scuds 80 Amp red one Chucks aircraft breaker Did I miss any? It's all about Current squared x resistance I still have the OEM fuse holder in mine but I haven't checked it lately

Thanks for that, I hope I can make the Tattley Rappet one day

I should have said replace fuse and holder, once a pair if contacts have been arcing it's very hard to get a good contact again. Have you thought of soldering the fuse into the holder, a bit drastic I know. Sent from my shoe phone!

Don't try and re-use the fuse itself get a new one. Instead if using a fuse holder consider drilling the fuse and bolting the fuse to lugs. Sent from my shoe phone!

The stater clutch slips in one direction. Sent from my shoe phone!

I have 4 Guzzis, not one oil switch that works, I replaced the one on my VII, it lasted about a month so now I rely on a pressure gauge 0 - 100 psi. The bike goes up to about 70 when cold but will drop to 15 when idling hot. I think the switches may be effected by the weather, I'm told they last longer if you fit a rubber boot.

Startus Interuptus (I don't know who came up with the name)- the inability to get it up IN If there is not enough current through the starter solenoid coils(2) it refuses to budge and all you get is the click from the relay. This inability strikes Guzzis of all ages, I am working with a V7 owner at the moment Norges, Brevas and Grisos are falling like flies In the ideal world when you press start 45 to 50 Amps should rush into the solenoid but because of the crazy wiring through the ignition switch you are lucky to get 30 The high current pulse only lasts for 20 to 40 milliseconds while the solenoid plunger is in motion then it drops to about 10 Amps. You can usually get some partial relief by cleaning the ignition switch, the old grease goes hard and holds the contacts apart, fresh Vaseline revives it for a while. The permanent cure is to provide a direct feed from the battery through a 20 Amp fuse direct to the Start relay, it's quite an easy fix for most bikes but gets a bit trickier where the start relay turns off the headlight while cranking. Really I would be surprised to hear that the ignition switch is rated for 40 Amps, whereas the relays made by Omron are rated for 100 Amps inrush. Even if you were to remove the switch I think there's enough extra wire to and fro to limit the current. I did a test on my EV, I cleaned up the switch and measured the time it took from pressing the button until the starter started spinning, about 40 milliseconds Then I did the Startus Interuptus bypass, the current onl went up about 5 amps but the time dropped in half to 20 milliseconds You may ask why the 15 Amp fuse doesn't blow with such a high current, the pulse is so short it doesn't have time to heat up.

Which terminal on the starter did you see 5 Volts, on the spade connector that's "Startus Interuptus", on the large terminal that's too low which could be a number of things. Loose pole magnets as fotoguzzi mentioned although I don't think it will pull the battery low. Bad battery, it shouldn't be left on a battery charger, some tenders are ok but I prefer not to use one unless the bike has been sitting for a couple of months then just overnight, 4 years is not too bad. With the bike in neutral take a length of wire and run it from the solenoid spade connector and touch on the battery, this test eliminates the possibility of a wiring fault, if the motor spins it points to the solenoid wiring "Startus Interuptus" Get the battery tested, it should have at least 150 CCA Charge the battery then connect your multimeter right to the posts that stick out (not the lugs bolted on), what Voltage do you see there while trying to crank? It should hold at least 10 Volts. If it stays high while trying to start but still no crank move your meter to measure from the negative post (not lug) to chassis, checking the ground connection. So how was the rally this year, can you post some pictures?

Pin 86 of Relay 4 (ECU Relay) would be the same as the (Run Switch) feed to Fuse 8. Looks like 87 has a more direct path (through Fuse 1) to the battery. Is that where would you come off of Relay 4 for voltage reference? Yes 87 of relay 4, it is almost direct from the battery, I would take it thru a small fuse say 1 amp to the black wire of the regulator. BTW if the battery Voltage is a bit low without the normal Voltage drop from the headlight circuit add some resistance in series with the black wire so the regulator has to raise the Voltage to compensate, you could even make it adjustable with a small pot. I think the black wire draws about 15 milliamps but measure it to be sure then you can calculate how much resistance to add 1 / 0.015 = 66 Ohms per Volt, a 20 Ohm would raise it by 0.3 Volts etc.

If you have headlamp relays fed directly from the battery the reference is more stable. By Ohms law it makes little difference if the resistance of the old headlight circuit is 0 or 10 Ohms at just a few milliamps, a huge difference at 5 Amps. Lately I have been suggesting the Voltage reference could come from Relay 4 BTW the Electrosport ESR510 has it's own set of problems, I found that over the winter even 0.3 mA will drain the battery so I stuck a fuse in it to disconnect. Come spring I forgot to put the fuse back and took off for a test drive, next thing I know the battery is going flat. Put the fuse back in and bump started, next thing it went flat again, how can that be? Damned wire fell off.

I have a theory that the shunt type regulators don't put out such high spikes of current, they can switch off half way through a cycle by shorting out the alternator whereas the Ducatis have to wait until the next half cycle before they disconnect, they have no control over the Voltage mid way through the cycle. We have all seen the open circuited alternator reach 80 or 90 Volts open circuit. The shunt type will short out the alternator once it goes over Voltage setpoint The Ducati can't restrict the Voltage and it cannot disconnect until the Voltage goes past it's peak and drops below about 14 Volts To put it differently the shunt type clamps the Voltage from going too high effectively controlling the current. The Ducati disconnects the battery for a few cycles after the fact, it has no control over the current. I have an Electrosport ESR510 on my 01 not because I don't like the Ducati but because I got sick of the flakey Voltage reference from the headlight circuit The early VIIs had two relays in series with the headlight, the later ones only have one. I would go with one of the Shindengen ones if I was doing it again

Doc, I don't see how external charging can effect the 30 Amp fuse, for one thing you are charging at quite a low rate say

The regulator on mine was mounted to the horn bracket which in turn was bolted to the chassis. I could see no sign that Luigi had given any thought to removing paint from the regulator to bracket or bracket to chassis connection. I haven't bothered to measure the resistance of the black wire back to the negative. I suspect when the bikes are new they may get an accidental good ground but as Marty says after a few years it falls back on the small black wire and the battery loses Volts. Voltage drop between regulator case and battery is critical, the red wire could lose several Volts with no effect Electricians measure low resistance using what's called a drop test, no, we don't throw it on the ground, you pass a known current through the resistance and measure the millivolts drop. It's actually quite easy to do all you need is some way of passing a steady current through the resistor, I use a headlight bulb and a 12V battery and measure the current on the 10 Amp range, for example it measures 4.6 Amps then measure the Voltage drop across the resistance, suppose it's 7 millivolts Calculate using Ohms Law 7 mV / 4.6 Amps = 0.0015 Ohms. The trick is to measure the mV on the right side of the joint because the mV drop is high across the current connections, Using this idea you can then make a shunt from just a piece of wire that can measure over 100 Amps, for example the starter current 7.66 inches of #12 will give you 1 millivolt per Amp and measure 150 Amps for a few seconds before it gets too hot.

For the ground I crimped a lug on both ends of about 6" of #12, Later on I thought that's not very smart Aluminum to Copper why not just take a piece of Aluminum sheet metal and make a strap from the alloy regulator to the alloy engine case it would hold it's shape better than a wire but add grease as well. I think all the VIIs have a black wire all the way from the regulator to battery negative, it just has too much resistance. It's also been responsible for smoking up several bikes when the main ground has worked loose, the starter current can't get back through the regular cable so it finds it's way back through this regulator ground which gets red hot and melts itself to the rest of the loom. I cannot stress enough the importance of cleaning the battery terminals and adding Vaseline to them, I have seen where a battery becomes completely disconnected although bolted tight by Lead Oxide creeping in between the lug and post, one application of Vaseline will protect the connection for years. Re Maxi Fuse connection. As you can see the fuses aren't blowing, it's just a high resistance that causes heating, Might I suggest drilling a couple of holes in the blade and bolting the wires to it. I would be very cautious about doing away with the fuse, the battery can easily melt any wire on the bike if you get a short I think the Ducati Energia series type regulator might be partially to blame for the heating, once it decides the battery needs to be topped up it effectively connects the alternator directly to the battery delivering as much current as the alternator can produce as, I haven't measured the current pulses but I suspect it may be as high as 40 Amps, its a short duration of high current probably exceeding the rating of the fuse clip. This is another reason to keep your battery terminals in good shape, as you know the alternator Voltage can go to 90 Volts open circuit, you don't want that getting into the ECU if the battery disconnects. Our Guzzi regulators are series type that break the alternator circuit, Most other bikes use shunt regulators that short out the alternator,

The 01 VII has 2 relays in series before the Voltage regulator so they are more likely to have flakey Voltage. Sent from my shoe phone!

This might help a little, follow the power from the fuse at the left to the right. For the pump to run you have to get power all the way through the ignition switch, Sidestand Relay and Kill Switch. Then it goes through the start button, then the clutch switch and and the two bullet connectors shown as -->--- on each side of the clutch finally it reaches the start relay. I show a little green light hooked into the petcock fuse, this will tell you if the power is at the ECU, if it's there the bike is ready to go. Passator Cortese, Since the pump doesn't prime your problem is to the left of Relay 4, have you cleaned the ignition switch, takes about half hour. The Neutral light will tell you if power is getting through the switch, Cyborg might be right about the relay R3 or R4 but my moneys on the switch. The Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) used to lubricate it goes hard with age and holds the contacts apart.

I do it as per Scud, you shouldn't need any special tools as long as you don't allow any air into the system. A 10 mm ring spanner slipped over bleeder, stays there for the duration. Length of clear plastic hose from bleeder into a bottle 1/ apply brake, 2/ open bleeder, - lets the pedal go down or lever go to bars 3/ close bleeder without releasing the brake. 4/ release brake, - sucks in a fresh charge of fluid back to step 1 It's important to get the sequence right or you might suck air into the slave cylinder Be very careful not to splash fluid onto the paintwork, it's the best paint remover. If you take the rear caliper off jamb something in between the pads so they can't close on you.

Lean perhaps Sent from my shoe phone!