Kiwi_Roy

Besides I'd walk that far for a Rosso Corsa LOL When do we see some pictures? Sent from my shoe phone!

It doesn't count if you don't ride it home. I bought my EV sight unseen in Denver CO and rode it back to Vancouver BC camping along the way. Sent from my shoe phone!

Harpers list all the parts but I'm sure you can pick up a used unit from a parts bike just be sure to replace the plastic filter with an all metal one. Browsing the forums most owners seem to be wanting to go the other way from internal to external, not sure why as with everything internal the hoses must be much simpler. Most cars have an internal pump, perhaps a visit to your local auto wrecker.

I don't know the software at all ( I have a MyECU not a 15M, it uses different software) but the screen I see doesn't seem to be communicating, all values are blank.

Don't you think it will be a zoo there for the 100th? Sent from my shoe phone!

It's a different type of Hall Effect, I don't think they have been on the market more than about 5 years, I don't know the theory behind them but they put out 10 to 90% of the supply Voltage (5 Volts in out case) so 50mV to 5.5 Volts over 90, 120. 180. 270 or 360° Cliff, Yes, you're right we need the 90° option, I was about to order a 180 Over the weekend I will figure out the complete part No and get you to check it.

A while back I identified a Hall Effect TPS that should fit the Guzzi. The nice thing about Hall Effect is it has no sliding parts, the angle of rotation is transferred magnetically so it should last forever. Digikey have HE TPS units for around $40 but the problem is selecting the right one, a while back I purchased a Honeywell one that looked like it would work but it was just a tad too big. Digikey part no 693-1001-ND or 693-1003-ND look interesting, they have an output of 50mV to 4.5 Volts The curve doesn't have a knee though, it's strictly straight. Points to consider Rotation degrees, I think 180° Update No 90° is what you need CW or CCW rotation Spring loaded or not The slot or tang to fit Hall Effect TPS millivolts doesn't start quite as low as the old slidewire type Perhaps an expert like Meinolf could write up a spec for a new Hall Effect unit The map might need to be modified slightly, I don't think Hall Effect has the same knee in the slope The second paragraph d) "you can use any TPS that can be fastened to the throttle body" should we also say any TPS that is readily available

Get a good pair of Speedhuts Sent from my shoe phone!

When you take your finger off start button the current runs backwards through the Pull In coil and the Holding coil in series. there should be no current through the fuse in this case because the relay is open. The 2 coils are supposed to cancel each other out letting the solenoid go (contact open) but I have seen one brand new solenoid on a Bosch starter hang up every time causing the starter to run until the battery could be disconnected.

The real starter circuit is nothing like it shows in the manual, there are two coils in the solenoid One lets call it the Holding Coil that measures 1.05 Ohms between the spade terminal and chassis. Apply Ohms law to that, 12Volts / 1.05Ohms = 11.4Amps But there's another coil I call the Pull In coil measuring just 0.25 Ohms wired between the spade terminal and the starter motor if you apply Ohms law to that 12Volts / 0.25ohms = 48Amps (the motor itself is close to zero) The instant you press the start button the start relay applies 12 Volts to the spade terminal and you get a combined current of 45 - 50 Amps (this is providing the wiring is up to snuff) Less than 0.1 seconds later the solenoid pulls in closing the main contacts and putting the same Voltage on both ends of the 0.25 Ohm coil so it's current drops to zero and just the Holding Coil is holding the solenoid in place at ~ 11 Amps. At the same instant 150 - 170 Amps charges through the starter motor spinning it up to speed. If the main battery cable is not making good contact when the solenoid contact closes there is no Voltage to pull the Pull In coil to 12 Volts so it continues to try and spin the starter through the 15 Amp fuse and Start Relay I did a test on mine, I left the main wire loose to simulate a bad connection, sure enough the fuse popped in les than a second. This is what happened to yours. Scrape the terminals and smear on a little Vaseline and it won't happen again. BTW, you may have heard the term Startus Interuptus , this is an affliction Luigi passed on to almost every Guzzi by wiring the Start relay through the ignition switch. The cure is to bypass the switch.

As Docc says the red/black wire from the headlight relay provides power for the tach, the light is irrelivent. Sent from my shoe phone!

Was it raining when the light stayed on, could be just a bit of leakage. Sent from my shoe phone!

The small spark may have been a capacitor charging, I wouldn't worry if it's holding charge. Yes the OEM Ducati Energia needs a ground, the current returns that way. Sent from my shoe phone!

Jamb some paper towel in around the plug, it will absorb most of the oil coming out, a teaspoon full goes a long way.

Beatle on Wild Guzzi is doing some wonderful work on the newer bike maps. Sent from my shoe phone!

No 30 is the right size, I was waffling on about Guzzis in general just ignore me everyone else does LOL Sent from my shoe phone!

I don't think it will have tubeless rims but a good bike anyway. Sent from my shoe phone!

No, a 30 Amp fuse in the red wire between regulator and the battery, some owners use a maxi fuse but if you have good tension on the fuse clips the OEM is ok. Some Guzzis have no fuse at all, a breaker would be ok too. The yellow wires don't need fuses, the one in the red wire protects them as well. I believe it's more important to protect the wiring from the battery than the alternator. The battery can put out several hundred Amps and it's hard to disconnect in a panic, many of the older bikes have lots of unprotected wiring, I always add a 40 Amp fuse next to the battery. Our VIIs are some of the best wired guzzis IMHO

The insulation melted because there was too much resistance in the joint, doesn't take much. Put the ground under any of the 6mm timing cover screws, the Aluminum engine case will make a perfect conductor to the large ground cable at the gearbox. Sent from my shoe phone!

The yellow connectors can be replaced but be prepared to change them out again, butt splices are more secure. These regulators have to have a good ground connection to the case. A short No 12 from the case to a timing cover bolt is far better than a No 8 all the way to the battery. Have you determined your old regulator is U/S, perhaps it's just the yellow connectors. Sent from my shoe phone!

What's the point of promoting a product that's not available? Petroleum Jelly may not be the best available product but it is readily available and 100 times better than not using anything at all. I don't mean to argue but I've found it to be quite adequate for the last 50 years. Cheers Roy

Prostrate Cancer HaHa, I did it again. I thought I got it right last year.

I think you will find it mounted between the horns. It may be bolted to the horn bracket which is a poor ground, consider running a separate wire from the case to a timing cover screw. It's very important to have a good ground.

Is anyone taking part in the ride to raise money for Prostrate Cancer Research riding my 72 Eldorado I'll be taking part in the Langley BC ride if you feel like making a donation it goes to the foundation in your home country http://www.gentlemansride.com/sponsor/?kw=roy%20matson I'll be looking something like this LOL

The headlight relay powers up the tach. The start relay Normally closed contact powers up the headlight relay If either relay is starting to play up you may be losing power to the tach causing it to bounce. Buy all 5 pin relays, that way any relay will work in any spot. Another source is Digikey part No Z2247-ND (Omron G8HN-1C2T-R-DC12) Ok with the dash lights