Kiwi_Roy

I believe the ground is all on the outside, hopefully it's just a loose connection, it might be easiest just to add an extra wire to the chassis. You could also try changing out the headlight relay and Start relay just in-case it's starting to go bad. Remember your Start relay must be a 5 pin

I expect DC4 must be better than Vaseline for anywhere hot. As you say paint won't stick to anything touched with Silicone, I worked for a short while in a VW wheel plant, they banned the stuff, Sent from my shoe phone!

For the record I have never had a bad experience with silicone grease because I have never used it. Several guys on here who I respect have spoken out against it, that's good enough for me. It's supposed to be good for spark plug caps. I have never used Craigs DeOxit but I would have bought a can to try except there are several different kinds and it's expensive. I was taught to use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on contacts and batteries over 50 years ago, it's never let me down. I use it also on wires before I crimp them if it's a wet area, it stops the copper oxidizing. MartyNZ, if DC4 is approved for aircraft one would assume it's been well tested, you will find out and let us know?

No, it's the nut that holds the throttle Sent from my shoe phone!

Plus 1 on the Tekno bags, I can pick up the rear of the bike using the brackets. My bags are pretty faded though, any good fix for that? Sent from my shoe phone!

No, that's what I do, your upper lip is very sensitive, I'm not trying to burn you LOL

I suspect it's the higher current, after running for a while pull the relay and touch the 30 & 87 pin on your lip that will show if one's getting too hot. Sent from my shoe phone!

The schematics all depict the TPS as a simple potentiometer, It's not. It doesn't Ohm out like a normal potentiometer. I suspect it has another set of resistors that cause it to default to a fixed mV value if the slider loses contact. You can buy a Hall Effect device now to replace the TPS (no sliding contact to wear out)

Wrap nod end of a small gauge wire around the 87 pin of the pump relay run the other end to a small lamp taped to the bars, a flickering lamp will get your attention. It may well be something else but the little lamp will eliminate one possible cause. If it were a TPS wouldn't it show up measuring the millivolts without the bike running?

Have you bypassed the side stand switch? Cleaned the ignition switch? Do both cylinders cut out? Sent from my shoe phone!

They are 3.8 L per US gallon, I read it every day on the urinal. I work with process engineers they always think in m3 or US gallons, I haven't used imperial gallons in 20 years. Sent from my shoe phone!

You need to make sure the low fuel light works first of all. I trust mine, it starts out turning on and off as the fuel sloshes around, by the time it's on steady I figure I have 40k or 30 miles left. According to the manual the tank capacity is 23 Litres (6 US gallons) with a reserve about 4. BTW, welcome to the forum, I have a 2001 VII also, green of course.

Yes, good idea to do the driveshaft at the mileage I doubt it's ever been done, Luigi is famous for being stingy with the grease, The easiest way to do that IMHO is remove it so to get at the front universal. Careful putting it back so the pinch bolt doesn't strip itself on the gearbox shaft. There should be a paint mark on the splines, that has to be lined up when put back. I believe I use Dot 3 brake fluid, whatever brand comes to hand, Dot 4 may be better ????? By the end of all that you will have learnt a few more curse words but can bask in the glory of a job well done.

I may be wrong about the size of the hole, I haven't had mine apart but the hole should be uncovered when the piston is all the way back (lever out) the seal moves further than the hole so it's able to vent any pressure or re-fill with fluid. Sometimes you get a little bit of corrosion in the cylinder, I guess from moisture that could plug it. I had one bike that sat for 30 years the fluid turned to crystals like wet sugar. Fluid is Hydroscopic it will absorb moisture from the atmosphere. Perhaps just start by flushing the old fluid out, pull the lever into the bar, while holding it there open the bleed valve at the rear of gearbox (slave cylinder), you will get about a teaspoon of dirty fluid come out. While still holding the lever in to the bar close the bleed valve then let the lever out this should suck fresh fluid from the reservoir into the master cylinder, Repeat several times until the fluid coming out is nice and clean. Keep the reservoir topped up with fresh fluid to avoid sucking air or you may have more work than you bargained for. It's best to put a ring spanner on the bleed valve (10mm I think) then slip a length of plastic tube on the nipple and into a bottle. Be very careful not to get fluid on the paint work, it will strip paint off in seconds. The slave cylinder is awkward to get at but I think you can do it without removing the back wheel. Good Luck

As Phil says check the easy stuff first it's very unlikely to be a major problem. There's a tiny hole in the master cylinder designed to balance the pressure if that becomes blocked it could account for the slip when hot. The lever should have a little bit of play before you feel it starting to build up pressure, if not the hole is blocked, you may be able to see it if you remove the reservoir, about the size of 10 Amp fuse wire. Sent from my shoe phone!

Scud, Do you think it's the master cylinder adjustment, not letting the fluid back out when released? Is there an adjustment for that?

Andy, The most likely place for a broken wire is around the steering head where it is constantly bending back and forth, copper work hardens and becomes brittle. To find a fault like that pull hard on each wire in turn, about 20 lb, if the copper is broken the insulation will stretch.

No - I think someone has added a double adapter Sent from my shoe phone!

Someone suffered from "Startus Interuptus" so added a second button direct from the battery. There should be just a single spade connector there, take the wire off.

Wot, you getting too old for HH Docc?

Make sure you have the battery in the right way around, if it's in backwards the ECU won't let it the live wire is positive in relation to the chassis. Check for Voltage across the coil sockets for relay 4 and from either socket to chassis, 85 | | | 86 I think I sent you the sketch for checking all the switches from under the seat. I will fire it off again. The Neutral Light, Oil Pressure Light, Low Fuel Light and the tach are all fed from the headlight circuit, is your headlight On? I sometimes unplug the headlight relay while I'm working on the bike but be aware the charging won't work, better to unplug the 4 way connector under the headlight bucket to save power.

No I suspect the ECU is fine, the ground is just a shield but just follow the small black wire off the ECU case into the loom, it only goes a short way to the battery. This is the reason BTW we say to disconnect the battery negative first and re-connect it last, that way it's impossible to short out the battery, once the negative wire is off you can do whatever you like to positive. If you don't grease the battery terminals lead Oxide Forms on them, this is an insulator which will eventually creep in and even disconnect the terminals from the lugs even when the bolts are tight, scraping the terminals and smearing with a little Vaseline coats the metal prevents the Oxygen getting at the Lead., You may have noticed when you touch your meter leads on the posts it doesn't make contact until you jab the points thru the Lead Oxide layer. I find most guys are skeptical about this, I cut my teeth on large traction batteries. I doubt there is anything wrong with your starter, connect your meter on the large terminal where the main lead attaches to the solenoid and chassis, I think you will see it take a dive when you press start. Seems like you are getting close to Lift Off then I just missed your latest post, Every time you turn the key On (or cycle the Run/Stop switch) you must hear the pump cycle for a couple of seconds. If you don't it's not ready to run or the battery is ass backwards Make sure the electric petcock is plugged in, you can tell by measuring with fuse 8 out, it should measure about 20 Ohms to chassis on the load side of the fuse holder. The pump can sometimes suck thru a closed petcock but you will hear it protest the first time you turn the key on you can hear the system charging up with fuel. May I suggest starting it outside for the first few times, have the garden hose handy.

If is not the battery it must be a bad connection, always smear a little Vaseline on the battery terminals, make sure the main ground is securely fastened to the gearbox. Scrape the battery terminals with a sharp knife to remove the Lead Oxide before applying vasaline Sent from my shoe phone!

The Guzzis use the same rear pads as some BMWs, I know because my Brother gave me a pair for my K100 flying brick. Sent from my shoe phone!

Are EBC Chinese? Sent from my shoe phone!