Kiwi_Roy

My California II is at 105,000 miles and still runs well even if it rattles a bit, I haven't looked at the chain yet. My Eldorado is at 130,000 miles, it was badly worn in the cylinders, the timing chain was good, wait it doesn't have a chain, steel gears look like new.

I read somewhere a slack timing chain could cause the sneeze the tensioner was quite worn and hardly doing it's job. I don't know, mine at 50,000 showed only the slightest sign of wear. Are you saying 100,000 is just wearing in? I have no idea, that's why I asked

I changed mine out at 80,000 km mainly because I needed to upgrade to a Valtek tensioner I'm guessing the chain should last 100,000 miles easily, what do you guys think. I have been asked the question by a new owner.

Was it the plastic bearing cage? Sent from my shoe phone!

I think the bung you are talking about is too small. I had mine welded into the crossover, when not in use I replace it with a sensor from an auto wrecker.

Has to be a metric one. Sent from my shoe phone!

Sorry, the cover on the air filter. Sent from my shoe phone!

Hang the broken spring on your keychain, "proof of rite of passage" Of course if you were younger in your ear or through your nose. Sorry, I have a weird sense of humour

Sorry, probably a combination of new fuse and new regulator. I have a theory that the shunt type regulators are not so hard on the fuse, current peaks are not so high. Have no proof though Sent from my shoe phone!

The new fuse is making better contact. Sent from my shoe phone!

I'm currently running my bike without the filter inlet so the RR is sitting in the space it occupied Sent from my shoe phone!

You would know if there's an electric petcock, it screws in near the rear of tank on left hand side, a chrome cylinder about 2" long and there will be no manual shutoff valve To try the pump unplug the ECU for safety, remove all the relays. Plug a wire into the 87 socket of the rear most relay and touch the other end to battery +, it should make the pump spin. If it doesn't send me a PM with your e-mail address I will send you a sketch on reversing the pump. Relay Pins ------ 30 ------ 87 | | | 85 87A 86 (I may have 85 & 86 swapped around) Once the pump breaks free it will soon flush out the varnish from old gas.

Congratulations - first thing to do is learn how to post pictures

I had the same thought Do you mean Valve timing?

One thing that springs to mind, after sitting several years the fuel pump may be gummed up and refuse to turn but don't despair they can usually be coaxed into life again, don't try to pull it apart, they are a sealed unit. As Docc says the relays are due for replacement, buy all 5 pin variety as they will operate in any slot. Carefully identify the fuel level sensor under the tank, many of these have been burnt out by owners mixing the cable up with the electric petcock, it's expensive to replace, perhaps leave it unplugged until you need it. The fuel sensor is the one closest to the front, the electric petcock is a chrome device with a hose attached, the wires have been known to snap off these where they exit the epoxy, ty-wrap the wires to the body so it takes the strain off where they exit.

Yes if one of the relays stuck closed it would drain the battery, it might have been the bad regulator also but they usually go open, you'll soon figure it out. Unlike a lot of other Guzzis the VII is fairly well fused, a short should take out a fuse and protect itself.

I'd like to think Luigi selected a fuse holder rated at least 30 Amps The problem is the regulator being a series type passes whatever current the alternator can put out as current pulses much higher than 30 Amps, maybe peaking at 40 or 50. A shunt type as used on most other bikes would have been kinder to the fuse because they short out the alternator before it leaves the regulator thus removing the source of heat By-pass the existing fuse, you may be able to use it later for an accessory.

Fried a diode, that's quite common, caused by a flakey relay IMHO however don't go ordering a lot of parts until you have had time to check it out properly, I wouldn't order the OEM Ducati Energia in any case. With all the lists you have been given you will be busy for a while. No matter what condition the bike appears to be in, they are a pretty special machine and well worth taking a bit of time over. Post some pictures when you get your hands on it.

As Gstallons says check the connections Where the yellow wires solder to the alternator stator. The bullet connectors that plug into those yellow wires, must be silver not black with no sign of discoloured plastic. The 30 Amp fuse under the seat, if the plastic has discoloured it's overheating. If you have the diode test function on your multimeter unplug regulator and touch red lead on its yellow lead, black on red lead, it should read about 0.5 Volts, same on other yellow to red. (this applies to the Ducati Energia regulator)

Wow, nice Uncle. You came to the right place, we'll soon have you back on the road. First things first get a wiring schematic and a multimeter. Don't install the new battery until you check out the wiring. Sent from my shoe phone!

Mine had the hot fuse issue, I managed to bend the contacts to apply more tension. Either that or get a maxi fuse otherwise the hot fuse will just get worse. You could drill the maxi fuse legs and bolt it right to the battery positive and wire from regulator, it should never blow, only there for worst case scenario.

Put the reset button around the back where you don't have to look at it. What's the purpose of the buttons in the oil pressure and Volt meter?

66 Ib/ft seems like an awful lot, I just use an 8" wrench and don't reef on it. For the pinch bolts using a short allen key turn it so it hurts your hand. I haven't had a wheel fall off yet, touch wood If you have a torque wrench use it to tighten a bolt then get a feel for it using a regular wrench as you would on the roadside.

I think mine are about 14gauge you can afore to lose a volt or two in the yellow wires, not in the battery leads. Sent from my shoe phone!

If you buy another regulator I would advise going with an after market direct connected type. I have had good results with Electrosport ESR510 This eliminates the Voltage reference from the headlight circuit which has proven faults. Sent from my shoe phone!