Kiwi_Roy

It could be one bad diode in the regulator, is it an OEM Dicati Energia, if not please post the model etc. Sent from my shoe phone!

That's really a 3 phase regulator, there is no installation sheet for it but I will ask ES if they have one. Kyle Wood - ES Sales Manager "Yes, you can just leave 1 of the AC input wire to use the ESR530 on a single phase stator"

Footgoose, a trick I use when looking for a short is replace the fuse with a headlamp bulb, this feeds the circuit with several Amps worth of current and you get a flash of light to indicate when a short occurs. When the lamp is cold the resistance is quite low It sort of acts like your self resetting breaker only with a light show. Parallel both filaments and you get enough current to supply any normal load on the bike.

Those tail lamp contacts are awful, just pushing the bulb in far enough to get past the hump in the bayonet bends the brass away from the lamp, remind me of the Prince of Darkness fittings on my Lario, I ended up soldering those to the lamps.

Please give the Electrosport part No so I can look up the diagram. I suspect the two greens are Negative but check Ohms between I.e. are they common. The best connection you have to battery negative is the engine block, connect the Negative wires to a bolt there.

Did you tell us what regulator you bought, the green wires are probably to chassis but need to look at the instructions to be sure.

Note; You don't have to pull off the rotor to remove the stator as it shows in the diagram Marty posted, that's more for if you need to remove the timing cover.

Just 4 screws I think, may need to lever it out with a screwdriver to the steel part, don't lever on the coils. How do you know it's faulty? Measure the resistance between yellow wires, about 0.3 Ohms is normal, if it's open circuit inspect where the yellow wires are soldered to the coils. With the bike idling you should read 15 - 20 VAC between the two yellow female bullet connectors, this will rise to about 50 VAC at 3000 revs NOTE: The Volts here is AC (Alternating Current) not DC like the rest of the bike.

Next comes the tricky part, getting the board out in one piece

That's great, you sorted out why the fuse was blowing then? If you look at the petcock two black wires come from the bottom, right where they come out of the epoxy is a common break point so ty-wrap the wires to the body to take all the strain. Strange the PO should remove the fuse without changing the valve, some owners pull them apart and snip off the valve, easy to check just disconnect the hose if fuel gushes out it's been circumcised otherwise it will only run out with the key On

Oh you got it started now, things are moving too fast to follow. You couldn't get it to crank a moment ago. Do you have a silver thing hanging below tank with hoses, that's the electric petcock, lots of owners remove it so don't need the fuse, I wouldn't. The fuel pump can suck past a closed electric petcock but it struggles a bit, you can hear it moaning. Now you have her going she will reward you big time.

Ok the fuse blowing as soon as you press start is new info. Looking at the starter solenoid you will see a spade connector, pull it off and the fuse should not blow, you will hear the relay click each time you press start. Check the main connection at the solenoid. If the main +12 is missing or the solenoid contacts don't close it will draw 45 Amps continuously, the fuse will blow in about 1/2 second.

Heres a typical VII http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif Note you can measure the ECU Voltage (Negative) from pin 2 of the connector item (43) to fuse 1, should be ~12 Volts Wrap a small wire around pin 87 of relay (46) and monitor the Voltage to chassis. When you turn the key On you should see it go +12 for a couple of seconds and hear the pump priming then it will go to zero. When you press start and the motor turns over it should go +12 again letting you know the pump, coils and injectors are getting powered up. (The little sensor in the timing case picks up pulses telling the ECU when to fire etc)

Does the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds each time you cycle the ignition or kill switch? It might be hard to hear but it should also start and run while the engine is cranking (I'm thinking is the timing sensor ok, fuel pump ok) Check for spark at each plug Measure the resistance from each plug cap to chassis. Anyone know an easy way to measure the fuel pressure? (about 45psi I think, that would also confirm the pumps running) Make sure you have a good pair of relays in position 4 & 5 Measure the TPS mV, it should be in the 400 - 500 range, rise steadily to about 4-1/2 Volts with throttle opening. With the bike cranking over measure the Voltage at the switched fuses, I'm wondering if there's excessive Volts dropped somewhere like thru the switch, starving the ECU On that note is the ECU connected to battery negative? Don't despair Plexiform she is just testing to see if you are worthy

The Electrosport ESR510 is a direct connected (doesn't use the flakey Voltage reference from the headlight relay) and it still has the charge light. I've also been looking at the Shindengen (Japanese) regulators, they make the components. I believe these are used as OEM on several brands. A 3 phase one will also work with our single phase Guzzis The Mosfet FH020AA seem to be the way to go This is a direct connected shunt type so you no longer have to worry about the flakey headlight relay reference.

You need to fix that overheating fuse or it will come back to bite you. Clean the fuse holder contacts with fine emery paper then bend the contacts so they grip tighter. Replace the old fuse. I did this to mine it seemed to fix it. Check the connectors on the yellow wires also. Does your bike have after market headlight relays or are you measuring the voltage with the headlight Off, that will make it lower by half a Volt. Sent from my shoe phone!

Could the oil be what's collecting in the spine draining down the hose, It would drip out for a while after a run. Perhaps disconnect the hose and run if into a bottle to check. Sent from my shoe phone!

I would go for a standard AGM battery, i have had a Yuasa since I got mine, it has given no trouble once the first one was replaced under warrantee Sent from my shoe phone!

Vancouver to John Day and back, close to 1,000 km each way. I was surprised how comfortable the old girl was with everything stock. I think to do it again I would make some way of allowing me to sit up straight now and then, reins perhaps (he said half seriously) Sent from my shoe phone!

I suggest you use your other thread about Scura Electrical Issues Cheers Roy

If the battery is low I think the ECU has trouble starting, I know mine won't even bump start if it gets too low. It corrects for Voltage but only down to about 9V I think, after that it may not even be able to open the injectors. (my theory only) If the Voltage gets too low the start solenoid may not have enough grunt to close the contacts in which case It could sit there pulling many times the normal current with both coils energized and blow the fuse. (normally the second coil is only alive for Make certain the main ground is securely attached to the gearbox. I know of at least 3 VIIs that let out magic smoke when the ground worked loose. The starter turns over slowly and heavy start current cannot get back to the battery direct so it finds it's way to the small regulator ground wire heating it to red hot which melts adjacent wires in the loom. (I think the slow cranking in your case is just the battery) You have a special bike there, when do we get a picture?

I probably should fill you in. My riding buddy crashed in a spectacular way spending about 6 weeks in hospital. This put a bit of a damper on the trip but I still got quite a bit of riding in restricted to the North Island. BTW, his stay in hospital and superb care was all at the expense of the NZ taxpayer or at least part of the bike insurance, BCAA travel insurance was worthless. The roads were every bit as good as I remembered The meat pies you can buy at any garage and corner dairy tasted better than I remembered Hope to make it back again one day.

Pretty damned nice is all I can say. Great work!!!!!! Sent from my shoe phone!

A parallel universe - that's an apt description. For it to work the regulator has to have power (be working) if for some reason the headlight relays not closed you get no warning that the bikes not charging because the electronic switch in the reg that turns the light on is powered down, brilliant Luigi! I have seen the electronic switch burnt out and the regulator working well, it's a separate function, best to confirm by checking the battery Voltage.

Congratulations You are right, 4 pins are fine for most slots but what's the difference in cost to have all interchangeable relays? Every new to me Guzzi I get I swap all the relays for a new set, start off on the right foot. I'm still puzzled why it wouldn't crank, would you mind looking into the base of relay 3 to see if there's a metal contact in the middle of the 3 small ones. ----- ----- | | | ^ this one here. Thanks Roy