Kiwi_Roy

13.8 Volts would be consistent with no load on the headlight circuit, headlight turned Off or fed directly from the battery thru after market relays. The Voltage drop I've observed between battery and reference point is ~ 0.6 V, if you add that to 13.8 it works out around 14.4 at the battery. Measure from battery + to the black wire on the regulator to get the Voltage Drop and get back to us. The regulator and OEM wiring does a great job of controlling the headlight Voltage, it's not so good at charging the battery.

Ok. I went to the Koso Nth America site and downloaded the instructions It appears you have a model TNT-015 http://kosonorthamerica.com/instructions/BA035160.pdf Section 4-3 describes the fuel gauge. it's designed to work with the float / rheostat type of sender but it will also work with a switch (setting SW) This could be a float/reed switch like some Guzzi models use or you might be able to get the sensor to pick up a relay instead of the lamp or as well as the lamp. The relay coils are similar in resistance to the lamp when hot, they both draw around 100 mA Do you have an internal or external fuel pump?

Stewgnu. The link you posted doesn't specify what you bought. If it's a unit with a digital display it wont work with the normal point level thermistor type, you need a variable resistor type for those.

Do you still have the stand switch, I've heard it will bounce at some revs Sent from my shoe phone!

Scud, The bike has an after market Electrosport ESR-510 regulator with short battery leads, I chose to extend the yellow alternator leads instead since some Voltage drop in those is ok. I;m probably paranoid about Voltage drop between the regulator and battery but Electrosport refused to divulge what type of regulator it is, series or shunt. I had it mounted where the air box belonged, now it's just above the filter (on top on the box). I may chose to put it back where it belongs if I ever put the top back on the air-box until then it's filling up some wasted space. BTW I came to realize that the bike is fitted with nice bell mouth velocity stacks, just that they are hidden inside the air-box.

Took off the pods and re-fitted the airbox, made a bracket for the regulator to mount over the air filter under the tank. I think I might take the old girl to John Day.

If you lower the Voltage to the lamps they won't be as bright, I don't have this on my bike because I seldom ride at night, I will do a little test and get back. Footgoose, I just have a pencil iron, I find using a pair of forceps to clamp the wire to the lamp while I solder it helps greatly, melting the wires into the plastic makes it stronger. The old lamp is just soldered to the LED with a couple of short wires. It's very unlikely it will burn out, if it does the LED will come On Not a very good picture but you can see the lamp with it's red leads, glass is covered in white heat shrink. The little bit of current drawn by the LED is insignificant compared to the incandescent. Later as promised, a pair of red LEDs The RH one at full 12 Volts The LH one at around 6 Volts via a pair of 1K resistors as a Voltage divider, it would be very easy to add a switch to have Day / Night setting. Lamps like the fuel level and flashers not so easy to dim but IMHO they should stay full brightness anyway. I think the High beam and the Neutral lights are the only ones that might need a dimmer the others shouldn't be on, well perhaps the flasher.

I have LEDs on mine, they are visible in bright sunlight, the fuel level is a special case, it needs the load the original lamp provides. I soldered an old lamp in parallel and tucked it out of sight. Others have complained the LEDs are too bright at night, you can take care of that by having a Day/Night Voltage setting on the lamp supply https://www.superbrightleds.com Look for type 194 https://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/wled-g-90/ WLED-x-90 x = colour to match the filter The nice thing about this particular lamp is it's AC/DC so you don't have to worry about polarity Don't use lamp-holders just solder the wires right to the lamp.

Never had a problem with the "O" ring. A lot of owners myself included put a hose clamp on the filter to ensure it will never loosen off. Good news is you don't need a new filter every oil change. Sent from my shoe phone!

Just looking at 3 versions of VII they all have the relay 3 contacts in parallel with stand switch Sidestand Switch ----|---------------| |---------------|-----------------> To Kill switch and Start button | | |---------------| |---------------| Neutral Relay 30 / 87

Woa, someone who can read an electrickery comic Good detective work Camn

The sidestand switch is doomed to fail eventually probably at the most inconvenient time, so best be prepared. If you look at the wiring the relay contacts 30 & 87 are in parallel with the stand switch, it's just a matter of wrapping a strand of bare wire around the two relay pins or leaving the relay out and stuffing a wire in the 30 & 87 sockets. Some Guzzis have a different stand switch and use the relay contacts 30 & 87a, just a matter of looking into the socket to see where it has metal contacts The Neutral light doesn't need the relay. Like others I was reluctant to do away with the stand switch but it failed so it's not going back, from now on it's just like my 3 other Guzzis with no stand interlock. I may use the relay for the horn or something useful. If you make alterations to the wiring for goodness sake make a note on the schematic for the next owner, we are only caretakers for these magnificent beasts.

About 5 inches from bottom (higher = earlier) Yes the metal can must be grounded Sent from my shoe phone!

Looking at the sump and the position the plate occupies it's hard to see how it works way up there, is it by allowing the oil level to be raised without it thrashing around with the crank? I have a pressure gauge on mine, I note it only starves if I let the level get below full. Sent from my shoe phone!

Steve's correct the lamp draw is important also, an LED doesn't draw enough. Post a link to the dash you have and I will see if I can. make sense of it. Sent from my shoe phone!

The reference Voltage needs to be a switched source otherwise it will run the battery flat in a few days. Lately I've been suggesting the ECU relay, another option would be a dedicated relay. If the sidestand interlock has been bypassed it's relay is going to waste. The reason the headlight relay source gives so much trouble the current draw is quite high and the Voltage drop can become inconsistent. Sent from my shoe phone!

The small square pads last no time at all, mine were down to the metal when I got the bike. The ones shown here should at least last as long as the front. Sent from my shoe phone!

That looks great! Can you provide a link to the parts

That's the one I have, No 2 at the very bottom If you scan through the pdf you will see Italian and English is used on the pages with pictures, German & French on a page by itself. If you have the better pdf software remove all the German/French pages before you print it out and save paper/ink.

The LED fuses are very simple, just a resistor and LED in series across the fuse element. While the fuse is intact there is no Voltage to light the LED because it's shorted out. When the fuse blows there is now 12 Volts across the resistor/LED so it lights Note: if there is no load on the fuse pulling it down to chassis the LED will not light. The very small current ( You can also add LEDs and resistors to the existing fuse holders. 10K Ohms would be a good value to start with.

That's easy - weird On further reflection I name it Dr. Spock

Buy a spring and install it in the monkey paw trap to ensure you will never need it. The light flickering at idle is pretty normal. Do check the main battery ground, make sure it's nice and tight to a gearbox bolt. The bike may have a mixture of 4 pin and 5 pin relays, if that's the case order all 5 pin replacements. Wow, the mileage is super low no wonder you find it just gets better, it's still being run in. Good Luck

Moto Guzzi just made another Electrician

Longest trip for me was Vancouver to Prince George BC in the rain most of the way there, 480 Miles. Thinking seriously of taking the old girl to John Day next month for the National, just thinking about it scares the bejebers out of me, not sure why, I had no problem doing it on the EV which I rode back to BC from Denver sorting it out along the way.

I had another thought. There are two basic types of regulators Series like the earlier Ducati Energias where they open the circuit when the battery is up to Voltage and Shunt like most other bikes use. The Shunt regulators short out the alternator when the battery is charged, this sounds pretty crude but they get away with it by shorting out so hard the output Voltage is near zero. High current but low Volts makes just a few Watts (heat) Example 40 Amps at 1 Volt is only 40 Watts Honda Goldwings are known to burn out alternators, they have a set of connectors between alternator and regulator situated below the gearbox in the wettest place available. After a while the connector corrodes and builds up resistance allowing the Voltage to builds up and with the high current make lots of Watts until it cooks the coils. Example 40 Amps at 10 Volts is 400 Watts The point of all this, the bullet connectors on yours show signs of lots of heat (resistance) perhaps the regulator on your Guzzi is a shunt type and the coils are burnt out, easy to check, your nose will tell you. Changing the stator on a Goldwing is a major operation, to avoid a repeat owners often chop the connector out and solder the wires together. Luckily on a Guzzi swapping the stator is only a 1 beer job.