Kiwi_Roy

You are correct, it's just not like one I have seen, I thought the diagram you posted was from an after market regulator fitting instructions. It's weird they should have two connectors in such close proximity it must be an adapter to a different stator. Obviously the bullet connectors are overheating, I would eliminate those. The alternator puts out 16 Volts at idle, that's about right so why not more when you rev it, could it be you have an intermittent connection inside. They seem to measure good for continuity, take the cover off and inspect where the wires attach to the coils in case there's a bad solder joint. Inspect the windings for any sign of un-even colour (from heating), usually coils will smell quite strongly if they are burnt out, do a sniff test. (one of the yellow wires broke on mine, I had to replace them as they were so badly oxidized I couldn't solder them. The ground wire on that regulator is important also, make sure it has a good connection to the chassis. I like to use one of the timing cover screws. I have no experience with those regulators but obviously there is something wrong with the stator if it's not putting out more than 16 Volts. I have a feeling it's something simple like a broken wire not touching at some angle but ok while testing.

Ok, you have an after market regulator. We normally measure the voltage unplugged and it goes up with revs to 60+

The alternator output on the yellow wires is AC not DC, check your meter is working on the AC range. The two bullet connectors you are holding in your hand do look bad you have a loose connection there but they are connected to the regulator, the alternator wires are female bullet connectors. The connector hanging out the side you are plugged into is not part of the original wiring. I suggest you chop off the bullet connectors and connect the alternator to regulator with crimp connectors. Please take a picture of the regulator so we can see what you have. The original Ducati Energia regulator had a male/female connector (black and white wire), The black wire has to get 12 Volts from the bike to turn it On You since pointed out the regulator is not this design. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif

Since the fuses on the VIIs are close coupled to the battery another option would be drill one leg and bolt it to the battery post, I would shorten the legs as much as possible. The fuse should never ever blow only if the regulator goes into melt down mode. I have several old Guzzis with lots of infused wiring, I think I might do that with the feed to ignition switch, carry a spare pre-drilled (thinking out loud here) Sent from my shoe phone!

Yes, I looked in Canadian Tire, they have fuses but no holders also. Since the only reason you are looking for a maxi-fuse is to get a better holder why not just get a better holder for the standard fuse? My V11 Sport melted the fuse like that, I was able to bend the clips to make better contact, that was several years back. The current thru the fuse is a series of high current peaks (half wave DC) probably well over the fuse rating, I suspect that's why they give out, heat is proportional to the current squared x resistance. Or you could fix it the Luigi way, fuse melts, take fuse out as he did to many of the bikes ~ 2000, the regulator red wires from the regulator connect straight to the battery, not what any electrician would do.

Midauis521, you must have some sort of filter set. It says to us "You cannot reply to this topic" A pdf is available on-line somewhere? I have a version that has all the non-English text removed, a large file but I will try and send it if you PM me your e-mail address. Roy

It's melted alright, due to being loose in the clips. Why not just pick up another normal size from your nearest Auto store? You could always drill the legs of a maxi-fuse and connect it to the wires with bolts & lugs.

Many good points posted here, there's lots of stuff to go wrong with charging. If ever the tacho stops working make sure the headlight's On or you may have lost charging. The charge light also relies on the headlight along with several of the other idiot lights and the horn. Might I suggest an after market, direct connected regulator that doesn't need a separate Voltage reference They have their issues also like quiescent current draw but not as serious IMHO I think the Ducati Regulator is pretty good even though it's old technology, it's let down badly by the Guzzi wiring.

Congrats on the new beast, perhaps we will se it in John Day next month Sent from my shoe phone!

Make sure you get 12 Volts too the regulator Voltage reference (the black wire) It comes from the red/black wire downstream of the headlight relay. The charging won't work without it. The wire also feeds the tach and idiot lights and the headlight

Can somebody point out a good headlight from this site? https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/motorcycle/ I just bought 100 of these in various colours, I like them for dash lights though others complain they are too bright at night. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-1-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/197/849/ A nice thing about these lamps they are AC so you don't need to worry about the polarity. I solder the wires directly to the lamp, by the time they burn out I will be also.

The manual I have was in 3 languages PDF format. Someone with the right software can edit out most of the non English pages. Sent from my shoe phone!

10.68 Volts seems low, the red/black wire should be just a little (~0.6) less than the battery Voltage, I am guessing the headlight relay terminal 30 on your bike is fed through the ignition switch. Try for power there with the key Off I think if you clean the ignition switch it will improve things, the grease goes hard after a few years and tends to hold the contacts apart. It's quite easy to remove the switch, first remove the battery negative leads so you don't accidentally short something out There are two Philips screws holding the black switch block onto the lock part, Look from underneath around towards the rear of the switch, take those out leaving the lock behind. Prize the back off then tilt out the white switch plate, wipe out all the old grease and replace it with fresh Vaseline. You can unplug the switch from the loom, I usually just do it still attached to the bike. When you put the switch back together anchor the wires so they don't flex where they are soldered to the plate. When you remove one of the horns this leaves more power for the other to work correctly, I think this may be a symptom of a dirty ignition switch also. If you really want your horns to work well add a relay with the coil fed from the two wires that originally went to the horn (21) Run a new fused 16 gauge wire to terminal 30 of the relay and feed both horns from the 67 terminal with the other horn terminal to chassis. The Generator (ignition) bulb is fed from the same Red/Black wire. Find the male/female connector where the regulator plugs in looking at the loom side the female should be +12 (key On) and if you touch the male pin to chassis the light should go. Does the Voltage on female dip down when you do that? With the key Off you should be able to measure the bulb resistance between male & female, I'm guessing 50 Ohms or less. I have seen regulators where the charge light output was burnt out, they still charged ok. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif Update: The bike has an aftermarket direct connected regulator with no connection for the charge light.

Replacing the sensor with a resistor should only be a temporary measure (for troubleshooting) If you replace the OEM filter with pods you need to relocate the air sensor somewhere it's not going to be subject to the engine temperature or sunlight i.e. it needs to measure the air temperature the intake sees, I put mine unser the tank up near the steering head. I managed to track down the equivalent sensor for both Air and Head temperature Vishay NTCLE203E3302 SBO 3K Ohms at 25°C Digikey part No BC2730-ND The bare sensor is

I find Carl's drawings invaluable in helping guys to troubleshoot their guzzis. To answer an earlier question yes I have measured just the solenoid current it's just a tad under 50 amps at the instant when the start relay closes but drops to about 10 in 20 - 40 milliseconds when the gear engages and the main contacts close. In this case every now and then the gear wasn't engaging properly holding the main contacts open so the solenoid current remained at 40+ amps to pop the fuse. There are many different faults that can cause the starter to fail, this mechanical one is quite rare I think.

If you are on the road and you have an oil light come on you can crack the fitting to one of the cylinder heads. Start the bike and oil pisses out you know you have good pressure. I have 4 Guzzis, I don't think I have a reliable switch on any of them, the last replacement I bought didn't last a month. They try to jamb a switch into too small a package, the active element doesn't move far enough to operate a decent switch. Get a gauge 0 - 100 psi and never wonder again. I have mine mounted on the steering damper bracket so it doesn't need flexible tubing.

I just read a review of the new V9, it has a link between the bike and your android phone, quite useful apparently, turns the phone into an extension of the dash.

Plug it into your ECU and I'll give you a tune up on the fly eh! Sent from my shoe phone! That reminds me I went to a bike night last year and a guy with some sort of rice burner proudly demonstrated how clever he was by starting the bike from his phone.

Scud, Look for it in your Apps store, it was free on my Iphone.

It's interesting to study the page out of the workshop manual that MartyNZ posted in the Damaged Alternator thread it shows how the regulator should be wired to the ignition switch not downstream of a flakey headlight relay that might or might not drop from 0.5 to 1 Volt depending on the phase of the moon. To make the Voltage reference more reliable I recommend feeding just the black wire from a dedicated relay or the ECU relay No 4 that is lightly loaded. I say just the black wire because the charge light is connected in with the other idiot lights which BTW also rely on the headlight relay to work, no headlight = no idiot lights = possible disaster I wouldn't load up the ECU relay with any un-necessary junk. Others have added headlight relays powered from the battery, this frees up the existing headlight relay to make it more reliable but if it is fed thru the switch it defeats the purpose. Also on the spine framed Guzzis the regulator is not well grounded so provide a strap from the regulator case to an engine bolt, I suggest using a 1/2" strip of sheet Aluminium for this with grease to prevent corrosion

I like being able to access this site on my phone during the daily commute

The Odyssey seems to be just a better made AGM battery, I'm sure the Ducati Energia (OEM regulator) is fine with it.

Bruce, I think that means your regulator as well as seeing the Voltage drop thru the headlight relay also sees Voltage drop thru the ignition switch, a recipe for disaster (overcharging) IMHO. You can check by measuring the Voltage between battery + and the red/black wire coming from loom (male/female connector) If you notice that the charging is inconsistent it probably means the switch is building up resistance. I would consider getting a more direct Voltage reference,

You can do a couple of tests Voltage Reference Locate the male/female connector coming from the loom, the female should have 12 volts on it with the key On, now if you move the probe from chassis to battery + you will read about half a Volt provided you still have the original wiring. Diode Test If you have a meter with diode test range measure the regulator from each yellow to the double red, typically reads about 0.5 Volts. You can also do that test with a single cell and flashlight bulb in series, it won't be as bright as a direct short because of the half Volt drop. From the regulators I have pulled apart one of the diodes will melt off the heatsink if it's been overloaded badly, this would show as an open circuit or high reading in the diode test.

Spammers - must be a Pom Sent from my shoe phone!