Kiwi_Roy

The Amp Hour rating tells you how much capacity it has when it's fully charged, more to do with the size of the plates I think. A 16 AH battery should be able to deliver 16 Amps for 1 hour or 1 Amp for 16 hours, 4 Amps for 4 hours etc. (I'm sure there is an optimum rate) The CCA rating gives you an idea how fast it can deliver. I'm sure Wikipedia explains it better than I can. Sent from my shoe phone!

Nothing to add, I just throw mine on charge for a few hours a couple of times over winter. Sent from my shoe phone!

I measured mine, I have seen 160 Amps, so 200 would be more than enough. For those with the fancy new battery I think the CCA is much lower until the battery warms up. I assume a battery with higher CCA maintains a higher Voltage while cranking. Although Cottagetone's Deltran will put out more current it's still only 14 AH the same as most of the AGM types. 14AH / 160 Amps = 0.0875 Hours or 5 minutes cranking time

I'm sure the plastic holder runs a little cooler the amount of plastic hanging out in the breeze must conduct heat away from the thermistor. On the other hand the air box sensor must get very confused when sitting with a hot engine (it would quickly recover). Keep that in mind if you change to pods and mount the thermistor somewhere cool like near the headstock. I still have as couple of thermistors if someone needs one. Sent from my shoe phone!

I can't wait to swing a leg over the 88 K100 waiting for me in New Zealand. My riding buddy picked up an 88 Honda Intercepter that seems like a nice bike also. Anyone considering a riding trip to Godzone mid March we might be able to do a deal on a pair of bikes at the Auckland airport. Sent from my shoe phone!

Interesting topic. As to brake fade, I haven't experienced it on my VII but with the tiny calliper I can see it happening for sure. I used to get it all the time in the Ford F150 driving over the mountains in PNG. Sent from my shoe phone!

Welcome to the forum, while your V11s not the usual Japanese sewing machine the vibration is not too bad, perhaps it just needs balancing, don't treat it like a Harley. Sent from my shoe phone!

Now you've jinxed it

Slightly off topic, the spring in my 72 Eldorado snapped as I was shimming the gearbox, it's massive compared to the wimpy V11 one. A friend suggested we should start hanging the broken springs on our keychain as proof of passage. There are 2 springs in the V11, is it always the one on the pawl lever that breaks? What about the one around the shifter shaft (barely seen in the pictures)?

Welcome over here too, You will find a lot more specific info, Sent from my shoe phone!

That's great, three Guzzis in the family, you can hold your own rally. Perhaps you could glue your old starter back together thus ensuring that none of you ever need it.

If the balance is only out a few inches of oil don't worry about it, that's nothing. Fine tune the idle balance with one air bleed screw. Scud is probably right about your linkage. Still backfiring so it must be something else eh! Sent from my shoe phone!

So which way did you go? Sent from my shoe phone!

You gave it your best shot, sometimes it pays to back away. Merry Christmas back at you.

That's very interesting, especially the chart, so obviously when you are accelerating the mixture needs to be richer hence the reason for having an accelerator pump on a carb. Does the 15M ECU have an equivalent to the pump, I guess it adds to the injector open time for a brief period. I think the ratio is mass of air to mass of fuel If you look at how the mass of air changes with temperature and altitude it's easy to see why the sensors are so important, maybe more so than with a carb. BTW If you google the Efiman document it gives a good explanation of fuel injection Although its for an earlier P8 ECU much of it still applies.

Meinolf, You say to use a CO tester or Wide Band O2 sensor to set the CO trim. Could you elaborate a little more on setting the CO using the WB O2 sensor, what mixture ratio should we aim for at idle. Is there a mixture that idles better even though it might not be best for power. I assume the CO tester reading is a different No from the Mixture ratio, what is the target? Is a CO tester something you might have in the usual home garage? Is there a way of fudging the trim without either instrument?

Chalky Your Voltage does seem low, have you added a ground strap to the regulator? One more thing that will result in low Voltage is headlight relays powered directly from the battery, this robs the regulator of the normal Voltage drop. Sent from my shoe phone!

I have had good service from a Yuasa, the first one I bought was faulty but replaced under warranty. Whatever you buy get a warranty and stick it under the battery so you don't lose it. Given my druthers I would have bought an Odyssey but Yuasa is what the Guzzi dealer was selling at the time.

Reading back through the thread, I like the way Scud wrote up his method in a different thread It's a little different from the way I did it but the end results are the same. I copied it below. The Scud Method Given this is still my first attempt at tuning a V11, and after reading two sets of instructions, with different sequences, I tried to merge them. Following are my steps, including one that was not on either set of instructions (the Mechanical Balance). I got the idea from something Luhbo mentioned (can't recall where). Tuning Procedure Mechanical Baseline Set intakes to .006” and exhausts to .008” Fresh and correctly gapped spark plugs, clean air filter, clean throttle bodies, etc. TPS Baseline Connect TPS Breakout harness and voltmeter. Back off cold idle speed cam (aka choke cam). Disconnect throttle connecting rod under RH throttle body. Back off RH idle speed screw so it does not touch. Turn on ignition (don’t start). Adjust TPS to read 150mv (turn the TPS unit to adjust). Adjust RH idle speed screw to desired TPS setting: (465mv for Kit Racing ECU on 2002/03 bikes; 521mv for stock ECU; 550mv for Kit Racing ECU on 2001 bikes) Disconnect TPS breakout harness (reconnect wires on bike). Reconnect throttle connecting rod and set LH idle screw so it just makes contact with lever. Warm up the bike, then turn it off. Have a fan available for airflow during remaining tests. Low Speed Vacuum Balance Connect manometer or other vacuum gauge. Close air bypass screws. Disconnect throttle connecting rod. Start engine. Adjust LH idle speed screw until cylinders are balanced. Stop engine. Mechanical Balance (note that this step may not be necessary if bike was already in decent tune) Reconnect throttle connecting rod. Adjust white balance knob until both throttle stop levers make contact to the idle screws. Use the smallest feeler gauge available until it has the same sliding friction on both sides. High Speed Balance: Start engine. Test balance at 2-3,000 RPM Adjust white balance knob for balance at 2-3,000 RPM. Stop engine. Final Idle Speed and Balance Open air bypass screws the same amount on each side. I used 1/2 turn. Start engine. Adjust the air bypass screws until balance is achieved at the desired idle speed. (note - I left one side at 1/2 turn and opened the other side until balance was achieved, this way, both bypass screws will by open a minimum of 1/2 turn) Use LH idle screw to increase idle speed to desired level - (consider adjusting RH idle screw until it makes contact to lever) Stop engine. Get Done Disconnect Manometer. Reattach caps or hoses to vacuum test ports. Reset the cold idle (aka choke) cam. Clean up and go for a ride.

Just start again, you did something wrong. You set the TPS to 154 with the RH butterfly fully closed, that's good There are several ways of adjusting the balance but they all end up the same Heres what I do for my high milage V11 A) Close both butterfly fully, there's a gap between the end of the screw and the butterfly lever. B ) Then screw the idle screws in until they just touch the throttle without opening it, I use a strip of paper as a feeler between the screw and lever setting the screws so they just grip the paper. Remember the linkage is still off and the fast idle cam is backed off, flicking the butterfly you can hear it slapping against the throttle body C) Open the air bypass screws 3/4 to 1 turn, doesn't matter as long as they are both the same Now you have both butterflys fully closed and the air bleeds both open the same, the throttles are balanced would you agree (both closed)? D) Wind in both idle screws by the same no of flats, start with 1 full turn, try to start, turn both in a bit more until its idling about 1000 revs The linkage is still off at this point. E) Now you can attach the manometer, it should be fairly close to balanced, tweak it one way or the other with one of the idle screws. So now it's perfectly balanced with the linkage off right? F) Now adjust the white knob so that the sync rod can drop on to the ball without opening either left or right throttles If you start the bike it's still balanced unless the linkage is under tension. G) Blip the throttle, the manometer will likely drift off a bit, if it does adjust the white knob a little, when you let the bike come back to idle it might be a little out so use one of the air bleeds to bring it back I realize using both idle screws is frowned on but I found my bike never idles at the same spot twice unless the butterflies are sitting on a hard stop If you prefer to use just the left one, drop the linkage on when both sides are fully closed at point C) I think its safe to say that everyone finds the procedure confusing at first all we are trying to do is get the same amount of air into each cylinder by having the same throttle opening, this we do by comparing the vacuum from one side to the other. Think of the air bleed screws like a tiny throttle in parallel to the main butterfly, they are so small they have little effect past idle. Opening them both air bleeds together will effect the idle speed, Opening or closing just one air bleed will effect the balance and to a lesser degree idle speed. Opening one while closing the other will maintain the idle speed while effecting the balance. The white knob sets the angle of one butterfly to the other, at any given throttle opening the angle should be the same.

Meinolf Please elaborate on setting the CO trim, Do you use an instrument to measure the tailpipe, does it measure CO directly or AFR? What value should you aim for? How do you change the CO trim on the 15M? My old EV has a P8 ECU with a screw, that makes a huge difference to backfire on overrun but I have no idea what it does to the exhaust.

I don't think we differ in opinion by much 6 mV over 5 Volts is only 0.12%, you will not be able to set the TPS that accurately. The TPS is only one part of the equation, engine speed, oil temperature, air temperature, atmospheric pressure, battery Voltage also figure into it, I'm sure I missed a few. I would aim for 150 but err on the high side

Setting the TPS is made out to be much more complex than it really is, the only Voltage you have to set is the 150mV (156 according to Meinolf) with the throttle fully closed. That's it, youre done, you don't touch the TPS again.

Meinolf, Excellent idea to shut the fuel off on those cells. I'm running a MyECU, it should be easy remembering to do it will be the hard part. Sent from my shoe phone!

The air bleed screws have a slight effect on mixture at idle because you can change the idle speed without changing the throttle angle. The white knob sets the throttle balance under power, has anyone tried to do that on the move? The way I interpret the 150 mV setting it's just a reference point like the survey mark down the street. The bike never operates there but as Meinolf pointed out it anchors it to the map the same as a surveyor would reference the marker before laying out the foundations. I wish people would forget about 530mV, it means nothing, just set the idle at 1100 or anywhere else you want it to idle. personally I find 1100 too fast, it takes away from the engine breaking. Last time I did my EV I just used the fast idle lever.