Kiwi_Roy

Haha, yes, it's cheaper for sure, I sponsored someone in the US and it cost me $25. However if they find a cure everyone wins. Thank you for supporting the cause. Roy Sent from my shoe phone!

I read a quote the other day "Time is what stops everything happening at once" Sent from my shoe phone!

rossi46, If you have a multimeter with the diode test function (--->|---) would you please test your old regulator Red lead of the meter to each yellow of the regulator black meter lead on the double red. Both yellows should read between 0.4 and 0.6 Volts. Thanks Roy

Yes you can find a rider to sponsor quite easily https://www.gentlemansride.com Then enter the riders name or handle at the top, it works quite well with even a partial name like benson or scud or even matson :-)

Shawn aka Twisted Twin is organizing a ride in the Langley area of BC If you re in the lower mainland why not join in, it's not too late to tap into your friends If you are too busy than consider going on the Langley ride site and sponsoring one of us https://www.gentlemansride.com/rides/canada/langley

I'm doing the Canada Langley ride if anyone would like to sponsor me. Sent from my shoe phone!

I have it mounted on the steering damper bracket, the one on the loop is in a similar spot on the crash bar. Sent from my shoe phone!

Most of the intermittent electrical faults occur before the ECU, it just so happens the petcock is connected just before the ECU relay. A light across the petcock will indicate at a glance if anything is open circuit it will be Off, it will flicker or be dim with a bad connection, and if all is good shine brightly. The LED only draws about 10 mA, just leave it under the tank to be consulted in event of misbehavior. After all the petcock fuse is not being used for anything else, make it earn it's keep. Besides which, your friends will be green with envy

Leave them open or even better wire a small 12 Volt LED to them, this will let you know if the interlock circuit (sidestand kill switch & neutral switch) are ok. Sent from my shoe phone!

Since you will be removing the gear box just make a simple strap from a starter mounting bolt to one of the clutch bolts to hold the shaft while you undo the nut. Replace the timing chain tensioner with a blade type. Sent from my shoe phone!

The 3/4 drive is just a regular socket, it slips right over the shaft, grind a couple of flats on it and turn with a 12" crescent or pipe wrench. I wrapped some masking tape around the shaft where the 3/4 square sits. Sent from my shoe phone!

A 3/4 drive socket too loosen the nut holding the timing chain sprocket 43mm I think, extend it with a 1/2" drive socket or grind flats and turn it with a pipe wrench. Sent from my shoe phone!

The light on my Eldorado came on so I cracked the banjo fitting on one head this created quite a mess when I restarted but I was happy to see it. Since then I added a second banjo with a longer bolt and a 100psi gauge, the light is still on, I'll get around tuit. Sent from my shoe phone!

The fuse in the start circuit is really too small Luigi forgot how much current the start solenoid pulls at inrush, about 50 Amps. Normally the inrush current only lasts about 1/10th of a second while the solenoid pulls in then drops to about 10 Amps, the fuse can handle that. If the starter doesn't pull in cleanly due to a flat battery or perhaps a tiny resistance the solenoid may sit there pulling a heavy current (for example 30 Amps) enough to blow the fuse but not have enough to engage the starter. This is a problem with some of the other Guzzi models where the solenoid is wired through the ignition switch the usual fix is to change the 15 Amp fuse for a 20, the other fix is to provide a direct feed to the relay bypassing the switch, not always simple. The start relay should not be powered through the ignition switch it cannot supply the heavy inrush current reliably, check by pulling the relay and see if there is Voltage on the 30 terminal. Thats the pin furtherest from the 3 small ones with the key Off I posted a sketch explaining the starter circuit a while back, I can't post it from here.

What oil level warning light, my guzzis only have a pressure switch that comes on when it's too late like out of oil. On that note the switches are very unreliable, my V11 Sport and the Eldorado now have pressure gauges.

Guzzigary, I floated the topic on Wild Guzzi. I proposed meeting at Stave Falls BC Hydro Museum I'll send you a PM Roy

Castlegar is a bit far away from Vancouver, we are thinking about a local event, anyone interested?

It's not just loose terminals that cause a problem, lead oxide can creep in and disconnect the wires even with the bolt tight. Scrape the battery terminals until you see bright metal then apply some Vaseline, this protects the metal from Oxygen, no Oxygen = no Lead Oxide Old battery trick.

Probbly the switch, crack open the fitting to one head if it makes a right mess when you start the motor that means the pump is pumping oil around, a good sign. Sent from my shoe phone!

I also use two screws, the linkage on mine is so worn it never idles at the same place twice otherwise. I use a slip of paper as a feeler to find the point of contact with the butterfly closed then turn both screws in by the same number of flats.

Stick, I wasn't being critical, It sounds like that regulator is a good backup for the Harley single phase one. The 6 devices are likely diodes but somewhere there will be one or 2 control devices either in series like the guzzi ones or in parallel like most of the ones used on Jap bikes. Car alternators usually don't have any control over the 3 phases, they weaken the rotor field to reduce current like the earlier 80's Bosch alternators. The Guzzi regulator has to be grounded because the return path is through the case, the main control components are bolted to the case.

Stick, that surprises me, can you post the Ducati or manufacturers part No Most of the three phase permanent alternator regulators I have seen operate on a different principle to the Guzzi single phase one. The Guzzi Ducati Energia (I don't think related Ducati motorcycles) opens the alternator circuit when the battery is at full Voltage A common three phase method is to short out the alternator. (no this doesn't harm it) Perhaps your three phase reg from a Duc works the same as the Guzzi single phase one (might even be from the same factory) Without knowing any details about the three phase type I still say No

If you can get the bezzel off without breaking it remove the needle and set it back 20. The needles are on a taper, it's best to remove them with a pointer puller but if it's not too tight a screwdriver on each side levering against the case.

Brushes bouncing perhaps, possibly a broken wire in the rotor? Measure the current in the brush circuit to see if it drops off at revs Make sure all the connectors are tight.

There is no clutch pump, it;s just a simple lever and slave cylinder not unlike the brake. Idle speed has nothing to do with the gearbox, I suggest you do a TPS reset and throttle balance. As for not being able to select first Perhaps you just have the eccentric cam between the two ends of the spring out of adjustment. The pawl needs to spring back so the ratchet gets a fresh bite. Try moving the lever the opposite way a little first, that may cause the ratchet to catch. Someone please explain how to set the eccentric, I haven't had to do mine yet.