Kiwi_Roy

No, you need a two wire regulator either get an OEM from MG Cycle , an aftermarket from Electrosport or a Harley 2 wire. Are you sure the regulator has quit, measure the resistance of the winding from yellow to yellow Make sure the regulator has 12 Volts on the black wire with the key On (from headlight circuit) Check the 30 Amp fuse is ok, the plastic hasn't melted Have you added a ground wire from the case to engine? Tell us what wire colours there are coming out of the regulator case, they seem to have changed regulators some time in 04 I have one of these on my V11 Sport, I like the direct connection type rather than the original which sensed the Voltage on the headlight circuit. http://www.electrosport.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=esr+510

Almost lunch time in Vancouver, what to have

Don't rely on the fuel level light working, many of those have been burnt out by owners switching the plugs around, as someone said top up every 150 miles miles or so. Once you get her home you can test the light. Often the oil pressure switches don't work, if in doubt just keep the level near the full mark and you won't have an issue with loss of pressure under acceleration. Enjoy your trip

As for the springs breaking and getting in the works, how about slipping some heat shrink over the common break point to hold the pieces together. A friend suggested attaching the broken spring to my keychain as proof of passage. just like the old mariners used to get an earring after rounding the horn. I will hold off on the body piercing.

I recall a while back someone just filing the ratchet down. BTW pall spring breakage is not restricted to the V11, the spring broke on my old Eldorado at 130,000 miles, I think it was the original because it just had 2 coils, the later ones have 3 coils so they are not so stressed.

When the air temperature sensor is mounted in the air box it will see ambient because there is fresh air passing by. I am running pods so I moved the sensor into the breeze rather than leave it where it would read the hot engine. Sent from my shoe phone!

As Docc says even if the petcocks been taken off the wiring is still there, if not you can monitor the wire going to the ECU relay. If the power drops off this wire the ECU drops out and I'm guessing it takes a second or two to recover (reboot). IMHO the ECU wiring is pretty robust, on my bike at least the only time it plays up is if the Voltage is lost upstream, Ignition switch or the stand relay.

Doesn't everyone check the plugs hot after a good fast run?

Perhaps a small pump tank with the relief valve installed so the fuel goes pump tank - pump - filter - injectors - relief valve - pump tank The pump tank could fill by gravity from the main tank with an extra petcock feeding from the RH side where the relief valve currently sits. For those running Pods the tank could sit where the air box came from.

For the initial test just monitor the petcock fuse with a small 12 Volt lamp Jamb one wire in the fuse holder to a lamp placed where you can see it while riding to chassis. This lamp will indicate instantly if you lose Voltage feeding the ECU. If the bike cuts out and the light stays On you have eliminated the most troublesome half of the wiring. If the bike cuts out and the light goes Off all you have to check is Ignition Switch, kill switch, sidestand circuit. Easy Peasy

My old California II has petcocks with a dual level, I'm not sure they will fit though. On the V11 sport it pumps from LH side then relieves back to RH side, it would be nice to access the fuel on the right, you can tip the bike to slosh it over but the pump just throws it back again.

I picked up pair of the Panasonic sensors at a Chinese site DHGate. I thought I must have been scammed because the took about 2 months to arrive, from the look of the parcel it had come via slow boat. I suggest you get several, they are so cheap compared to $190 on MG Cycle. With in-tank pump you have lots of room for a float switch, reed switch inside a brass tube with a full size cork and tiny magnet. A good source of brass tubing is an old telescopic antenna. Reed switches are a dime a dozen at Digikey. 100 milliamp is all you need, the Voltage doesn't matter http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/switches/magnetic-reed-switches/1114199?k=reed%20switch I prefer the glass body, axial lead type. With the small hole on external pump tanks its hard to get a float large enough to float and still slide on the brass tube. If you want to pad out your order get some spare relays for the guzzi http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/G8HN-1C2T-R%20DC12/Z2247-ND/765512

My V11 Sport has LEDs mounted in the relay base to monitor the 87 contact, if that seems like too much trouble you can add them to the relay itself/ 87 - 1k resistor - LED - small wire run to a ground point. The most useful relay to monitor is R3 http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/Relay%20LEDs Pause at the Test Relay sketch shows how to do a Non permanent fix.

I had a problem like that on a BMW. After much searching (and trying to identify the leading indicators like you are doing), the problem turned out to be the kill switch. It would make (or break) contact at inopportune times - when it got jostled the wrong way. After replacing a broken spring and cleaning the contacts in the switch, the problem was solved. The lamp wired to the petcock fuse will identify where the problem lies, if the problem lies in the ignition switch, kill switch or stand logic the lamp will flicker or turn off. I use a 12V LED which I put it the pivot hole of the front brake lever. The wire runs back over the tank to the petcock fuse or any other point I want to monitor.

If you have the in tank pump you should be able to get your switch mounted inside, I was thinking you has one like mine with just a 1/2" hole. The fuel lamp won't care if you have the thermistor or float type.

The first thing I would do is determine if it's ECU related (this includes the pump) Monitor the petcock with a small lamp, if the lamp goes out it's related to the safety circuit, not the ECU Change relay 1 and 3 for 4 and 5, to eliminate the relays.

That looks like a Panasoic part about $15 http://industrial.panasonic.com/lecs/www-data/pdf/AUD0000/AUD0000CE2.pdf

The problem is how to put it in the tank The float has to fit through the hole at the bottom Digikey have reed switches for about 15c each,

The light on resistance would be 50 - 100. Ohms. The lamps draw ~100 milliamperes so the reed switch will work well. With a short you may have welded the contacts together. I highly recommend throwing the lamp holders as far as possible and soldering in 12 Volt LEDs Sent from my shoe phone!

I'm guessing you have a short in the lamp holder to now a fuse. The lamps need to be a single sided contact type, the double sided ones short. Sent from my shoe phone!

Yes the feed (30) for the start relay should not go through the switch, that's caused an unbelievable amount of grief over the years even today on the modern bikes like Norge, Breva etc it's causing "Startus Interuptus" The problem is if you power the start relay direct how do you turn off the headlight relay while cranking? The simple solution is don't bother, the light only draws 4 Amps. Another solution is to ground the headlight relay coil via the solenoid, wire to (87) of the start relay. While cranking both ends of the headlight relay coil will be at 12 Volts so it drops out. While not cranking the tiny current the headlight relay coil draws will have no effect on the almost short circuit of the starter solenoid (0.2 Ohms to chassis) You don't need another relay, just a small wiring change.

Then just measure voltage at the other terminal, if 12V is not there it's the solenoid, if it is it's the motor,

Some of the Guzzi speedos have a mechanical stop at around 10, look closely at the face, does it have a small pin?

9:25 PM here in Vancouver

Yes, do you hear the solenoid clunk into gear? There's one more check you can do. There are two large terminals on the solenoid, one has 12 Volts on it The other should have 12 Volts when you press start, if that's there and it's not spinning indeed you have a motor problem. Brushes stuck, worn out, magnets off, armature contacting the fields, armature burnt out, did I say motors are simple? If the motor was jammed I would expect it to pull down the Voltage When you are measuring the various Voltages I hope you have the meter negative lead connected to chassis, not the battery or you could be mislead thinking you have Voltage when you don't due to a bad ground.