Kiwi_Roy

Like what double shielded bearings? The ones in there were 6204 2RS or something generic. I must confess I use the car wash. I still say the tapered roller arrangement on the Eldorado is far superior, it has proper indipendant seals. Both my VII Sport and the EV have the same 2RS bearings. Sent from my shoe phone!

If the fuel pump is cycling the bike is ready to run, it will start with a bump or by hot wiring the starter. Three feet of wire with a spade connector attached to the starter solenoid touched to the battery or hot terminal on the solenoid. (Make sure it's in neutral or you might have to run after it) For some reason Guzzi revised the wiring after they made my 01 so I'm not quite sure how yours will be but I expect it's somewhere between my 01 and the 04 If you have the manual that came with the bike, you can trace the power flow (sometimes the manual is not quite reality) There are a couple of different fault paths The Start relay coil is not picking up I think you can forget about the start button itself, that gets power from the kill switch, we know that's ok because the pump does its thing. From there it goes to one of the bullet connectors so you should be able to detect power there with key on button pressed, it goes out to the clutch lever, back to the other bullet then to the start relay coil, from the other coil terminal to chassis. just follow it from the first bullet through each point. The Start Relay is picking up but there is no power to pull the solenoid in If you take the seat off and remove the start relay check for 12 Volts at terminal 30, that's the one by itself on RH side of the bike, hopefully that has power with the key Off otherwise you might have what's commonly known as "Startus Interuptus" (too much resistance - the solenoid pulls 40+ Amps), based on the 04 diagram that would show up as the Neutral light going out when you press start. A quick check to make sure you have a good power supply is to poke a wire in the relay socket from 30 to 87, the bike should crank (make sure you aren't in gear) Pin Layout ---- 30 this pin should have 12 Volts on it (best case with the key off, for sure with the key on) ---- 87 this is the wire that goes to the starter solenoid | | | 85, 87A, 86 I may have 85, 86 backwards but it doesn't matter, one of these two should go +12 when you press the start button, the other should be connected to chassis (battery negative) 87A goes to the headlight relay, it turns the headlight off while cranking. If it doesn't crank from 30 - 87 then go from 87 to the battery positive, that checks the wire from relay to and including the starter solenoid. PM sent

Reading your original again you say no clicking, are you including the faint click under the seat? Does the fuel pump go through its cycle? Assuming the fuel pump does it's thing you have the start button bullet connectors and the clutch lever switch to satisfy. You can jumper the clutch switch to eliminate that. There are probably at least 10 different reasons for not cranking, the more feedback you give us the faster it will get sorted Sent from my shoe phone!

Do you hear the relay click? if not it could be the mythical bullet connectors. Verify the starter by touching a wire from the solenoid trigger terminal to battery +, if it cranks it's obviously not the starter.

Just try adding a switch between Left & Right side, Of course you will need to turn the blinkers on also, You could add a dedicated flasher powered from the battery with a pair of diodes left & right, powering the flasher would feed each side through a diode. The flasher would be selected with 4 lamps in mind. Sent from my shoe phone!

I like the look of those, they should outlast a solder joint for sure especially if there is any flexing. I always smear a little petroleum jelly aka Vaseline on the wires before crimping, this stops any corrosion. Solder tends to make a wire bend at one spot where it work hardens and snaps, a crimp spreads the flexing, and the joint will last twice as long. I don't have any favourite crimps but I see some from China made with very thin material, the spade connectors for example tend to loose their tension if stressed too much. Luigi soldered some of the joints in my V11 loom, I must say he used high quality solder and made sure the joint was well protected against flexing.

My California II at 100,000 miles had 4 different brands of bearing, after 2 sets of tires the front needed replacing again. It's not the bearings so much as the lack of a good seal to keep the elements out. The Eldorado has 130,000 miles and I'm fairly certain the tapered rollers are original. Tapered rollers are a much stronger bearing I'm sure you will agree but I think the main contributing factor is the separate dedicated seal. Sent from my shoe phone!

If you prize the little chrome cap out of the center of the steering head you could mount a pretty decent bracket off there.

None in Canada That's not right Sent from my shoe phone!

Good tip, threading the pivot pins in from the inside. My old uncle, a plumber taught me to start large threads by turning slowly backwards until you feel them click off the end of thread then go forward because the threads are lined up. Sent from my shoe phone!

As Roberto says, buy the bike If it's less than $4,000 it's a steal $4,000 - $5,000 it's a bargain > $5,000 think about it At 11,000 miles it's not even run in yet, sure it will have a few issues but nothing we can't talk you through. It's not a Harley so don't expect it to be anything like your Road King.

If you look at the bearings in an old loop, they are tapered rollers with a proper separate seal, it's little wonder the later Guzzis chew up bearings so fast. An ox cart in comparison.

You replaced some idiot lights, the problem might be in there, those lampholders are horrible. Not all lamps have the contact the same I had mine short out when I plugged LEDs in, some lamps have a double sided contact but the rubber holders are set up for a single sided one. Heres a write up I did back when I first bought my V11 Sport, I tried replacing the lamps with LEDs and started blowing fuses. The first thing I do now is throw away the lampholders and glue in the 194 LEDs, they will last forever so they don't need sockets and are much brighter than original. Take note about the low fuel light. When I'm trying to find an intermittent short I replace the fuse with a high wattage lamp (unplug the ECU for safety). The lamp will be off or at partial brightness. Wiggle the wires and when you create a short the lamp will flash to full brightness. You can split the ignition circuit up quite a bit, if you unplug fuse 6, 7 & 8 they are fed in series with fuse 4 (they are supposed to be 5A so should normally blow without taking out fuse 4 Stand Switch Tail area The ignition switch itself, often the wires snap off where soldered

My old California II has a similar charging system they are weak at best to the point when idling at the lights the headlight draws more than the alternators putting out. I replaced the regulator, little change To boost mine I added a diode in the regulator sensing line, this boosted the Voltage by 0.6 Volts now it sits mid to upper scale on the dash meter but it still drops to the red zone with too much idling.

"Suprisa alternator and regulator" means nothing to me, please give a year and model of the bike so I can look at a schematic. There it is My bike(s): 79 1000sp These old 3 phase alternators can be difficult, start by inspecting the brushes Clean up the ground connections, the others as well Measure the Voltage across the regulator, how does that compare to across the battery? Measure the Voltage at the live brush to chassis with the bike running When referring to Voltage are you talking about the meter on the bike or a multimeter connected to the battery? 13 Volts while not exactly great it must still be charging.

The start relay can be bypassed by inserting a wire into the socket 87 (stars ding on left side of bike, 30 is furtherest away 87 is the other large one in the middle. Touch the other end of wire to battery positive and it wi crank. Unless you have power to the petcock fuse it won't fire. You don't have an electric. Cock but I'm sure the fuse is still there doing nothing, wire a small LED to it and mount under the seat, trust me, you'll wonder how you did without it. Sent from my shoe phone!

The level probe is quite expensive, $190 over here, just use a different plug, spade connectors or similar There's not a lot of power on that connector, if you short the wires to chassis it will just make the light go.

The petcock is famous for the wires breaking off where they exit the body, this cases the pump to suck harder making more noise. Some owners change it for a manual one. If you find the coil is open as a temporary fix disassemble it and remove the little valve part. One more possibility is you have the two plugs under the tank crossed over, they are colour coded. Third possible cause: A blocked fuel filter- not so common on the plastic tanks, this causes the fuel pressure to go from 40+ psi to ~70,that makes the pump moan. No four- the petcock filter plugged, easy to check. Sent from my shoe phone!

I love the auto spell screwup "Pet cock, petcock petcock" Sent from my shoe phone!

It sounds like the Percocet may not be opening, the silver device below tank LH side. Pull the fuse f8 I think and measure the resistance to chassis, should be somewhere around 100 Ohms. With the key on you should hear a distinct click as you pull/insert the fuse. Sent from my shoe phone!

I would say the price is good for the low miles, a V11 is a lot of bike for 5K IMHO, I paid almost that for a high mileage one written off by the insurance company, I have never regretted it.

Check for Voltage at the petcock fuse, it's connected immediately before the ECU relay, if you get power to that point chances are the bike will run. I often suggest to wire a little lamp there. Strap the petcock wires to the body with a ty-wrap so they won't break off Take a last look at the wires on the ignition switch, they are known to break off and wouldn't be easy to fix on the road. Remove the alternator cover and check where the wires are soldered to the stator. Check the 30 Amp fuse for any sign of overheating. Remember, if the headlight / tacho is not operating chances are it's not charging, Don't think you will save power by unplugging the headlight fuse or relay, that only makes it worse, unplug the headlight below the bucket. Learn how to bypass the start relay and get the starter to crank. Figure out how to get a message on here, Tapatalk is good Most of all have a great trip, write home (to V11Lemans) Say hello to Luigi.

Don't feel bad Luigi doesn't understand elect rockery either otherwise we wouldn't have all these issues. Sent from my shoe phone!

Moto Guzzi - making electricians out of riders for over 90 years.

No. he means from battery to the relay contact. The relay coil should stay on the existing circuit so it's disabled with the key Off You can find an excellent drawing by Carl Allison on the This old Tractor site, just google Carl Allison Drawings Split the jumper from coil to contacts and feed the contact directly The starter solenoid draws a very heavy current (40-50 Amps) for a split second, it needs a really good feed. It wouldn't hurt to clean your ignition switch, it should be done every 5-10 years, just wipe out the old grease and replace with Petroleum Jelly aka Vaseline, Please, do not use dielectric grease.