Kiwi_Roy

The ignition switch is usually the first suspect http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1977_SB_Police_Bosche_Motoplat.gif The switch gets power from the red wire either connected to the solenoid as shown or possibly from the battery and returns it to the two top fuses, check for power at the fuses with the key on. If you don't have a meter use a 12 Volt lamp. Also check that you put all the wires back when you changed the battery, it's easy to miss one.

What I don't like about this method is the the wire ends are pointy and can cut through in insulation over time. I try to smooth them out. Ken Don't twist the wires before you twist them together it makes it too bulky/ He bared way too much insulation, you only need 1/4" longer than the joint. Nice hot iron to quickly heat the local are otherwise if you get it too hot the solder will wick up the wire and make it brittle. Actually I prefer to crimp wire these days, Dip the wires in Vaseline first if it's in a wet area

I mounted my air temperature sensor at the front of tank. I figure it should be away from the engine heat. I removed the thermistor from the plastic fitting and extended the wires. Sent from my shoe phone!

Not Santa, but a hero anyway. I must look and see if mine has one.

If your test bulb is low wattage it will glow at near full brightness because the tail lamp will draw too much current. To get around that take the tail lamp out.

Possibly a short in the tail area. The tail light dash lights and park light share a seperate contact of the ignition switch to fuse 6 A trick you can use to find a short is replace the fuse with a lamp, I have an old headlight bulb with a couple of wires attached I use for this purpose. A higher wattage lamp like a flasher is ok too, something that will supply enough current to power the circuit. Wiggle the wires to create the short, the lamp flashes and you soon zero in, no fuses were harmed in the process. BTW, I wouldn't worry about the flash when you lock the bike, its probably going through the park position. I have no idea why Luigi thinks you need the dash illuminated when it's parked.

Good idea, as long as the fuel is pumping it's ok but stop for a while and vapour lock is a possibility. It can take quite a while to clear because the pump won't pump it through. I seem to recall it was a hot topic (pun intended) a couple of years back.

Somewhere on her I posted a sketch "ECU Test Points" that shows how to measure the resistance of the various components. I think the only way one cylinder can be richer is if an injector is playing up. Just to make sure it's not electrical jump power to the pet cock fuse bypassing the safety circuit.

The lights don't flicker because the switches are so unreliable, I am on my third. I read somewhere the rubber boot will make them last. I have a gauge on mine, if I let the oil get too low it will drop to zero launching at a stoplight.

Both sparks share the same timing parts. Measure the plug leads from the cap to ground, they should be very similar in resistance, broken wire.

Both cylinders or just one? Sent from my shoe phone!

There's a tutorial 2nd topic down in the FAQ section, it seems a bit confusing if you haven't done one before. the TPS is set to 150 mV with the throttle body fully closed (idle stop and fast idle cam not touching) Once you have set the 150 mV you never move it again. In a later step you read the Voltage while adjusting the idle stop opening the throttle to see 521 mV, this is just the initial idle position, later you will change this to get the idle speed where you want it. Don't be surprised if it takes several attempts The cheapest and IMHO the best balance tool is a manometer made of 10 ft of plastic tube, a 3 ft stick and some engine oil make a U at about the 6 ft point (one end is longer to reach over the bike) and fasten it to the stick. Dip one end into a bottle of oil and suck on the other to get about 18" of oil on either side of the U, there you have it. To connect to the throttle bodies if you don't already have an adapter these can be made from a pair of 6mm grease nipples. file the tips off the threaded end to release the ball and spring, throw those away. As the engine warms up the plastic hose will fall off so fasten it with a twist tie or similar. BTW, you can tap into the TPS mV near the ECU connector either by poking a pin through the wire going to pin 11 (Black/ Violet I think) IMHO it doesn't hurt to make a permanent test point there, a short wire ending in a blue crimp link works well as a meter jack, the other connection can be battery Negative or even chassis. If you look at your Guzzi manual the TPS may be shown incorrectly (both mine show it wrong), Luigi loves to keep us guessing.

If none of the previous works perhaps do a compression test, hold the throttle open. A dirty ignition switch can cause popping and farting, flick the switch a few times to see if it improves. Sent from my shoe phone Corrected by PC

OBND, The tamper proof screws hold the lock in place I think. All you need to get the switch off is a Phillips screwdriver. There are 2 screws underneath the switch toward the rear, the lock stays behind. Looking at the switch there are 3 white spots pick the odd one and prize the plate out at an angle. It helps putting it back together if you mark it. Wipe the old grease out with a bit of shop cloth and replace it with fresh Vaseline When you put it back together make sure the wires are fixed so they don't flex at the solder joint, leave them loose where they flex around the headstock. BTW The spine frame guzzis are not as effected by a dirty switch as other are because there are no heavy currents passing through the switch, A dirty switch on mine showed up as the bike missing and farting. You can check the health of the switch from under the seat measuring the contact resistance, I can't post a picture from here but a while back I added a sketch called "Test Point Layout" it shows how.

The ESR515 needs the same connections as a the stock Ducati Energia You must have A direct connection to battery + for the red wire, if it has a fuse inspect that closely for signs of overheating e.g. blackened plastic. The black wire of the Black/white pair must have the battery Voltage on it with the key On, this comes from the headlight relay, you must have a 5 pin relay in the Start position The Voltage on the black wire turns the regulator On, the headlight should be working. You may have a black wire coming out of the loom, it's too small The case must be solidly grounded, that's how the current gets back to the alternator, the bracket the regulators mounted on is not well grounded, most guys add a short wire between the regulator and a timing cover bolt. (#16 is big enough) I sent you a PM

If you really want to lock up the engine take off the starter and make something to engage the ring-gear. I found the old tensioner bracket got in the way but the cam bearing holder bolt was too long without it. As I didn't have access to some shorter bolts I simply cut off the bracket with a hacksaw, engraved on it the date new tensioner and chain were installed for the next owner. Before After - make sure you tuck the spring in behind the bolt lug, you don't want it caught between the covers

So that's how they come out, I wonder if you can get replacement parts. I was thinking about a fuse block like that for my Eldorado project.

No I don't have an opinion of spray-ons, I tend to avoid them around plastics since having a switch dissolve on me once. Just be careful. I'm sure there are better things to use on switches than petroleum jelly but I've been using it for 50 years and not had a problem. Sent from my shoe phone!

I haven't done a modern clutch yet but to hold my Eldorado I used an old clutch plate, I drilled a hole near the circumference and added a strap from there to a starter bolt hole, worked great. You can assemble without any special tools although if you can borrow an alignment tool it will make life easy, I made a crude tool from a scrap of Aluminium. I don't think you will need the special socket for the hub nut, there's no need to take that apart but if you do just take to a regular socket with an angle grinder

I tried to find a deep 32mm as well. I ended up using a regular 3/4 drive 32mm. I ground a couple of flats on the outside for a 12" crescent wrench. I put a couple of wraps of masking tape around the shaft to protect it from the socket. To stop the engine rotating: As I was replacing the chain I simply jammed a brass drift into the sprocket. Putting it back I put the bike in top gear and applied the rear brake. Heres the Old and new side by side.

The ignition switch comes off in minutes, don't try to remove the lock just undo the two Allen screws underneath. Mark the switch so it goes back the same way, clean and lube with Vaseline, Nothing else The original bullet connectors are a little different than standard but if you squeeze the socket it should be ok, perhaps run a drill bit in the female to clean it out and for sure a little Vaseline to prevent corrosion.

Jack under the sump, carve out a stick of 4 x 2 to fit snug the sump and header pipes.

The grinding noise may have been the magnets breaking loose. Sent from my shoe phone!

There is nothing to adjust on those, send it back to Harpers. You are using the stock wires? Are you sure you have the wires in the right spot? Red/Black to + Black to ground Yellow/Black (might be Yellow/Green) to -

Whatever happened to Ports? I love it when guys ask for help but never get back with how the issue was resolved.